And then, of course, there's the projects not yet started. My current to do list runs to around three pages of A4!!!
I don't have a 'to do list' nor do I ever draw a design as I know none of those things would ever be carried out.
But hey, let's not dwell on that Tom. You do excellent work on your builds. Carry on please and show us more of it.
That said, I do have a couple of questions for you folk. I've run into a couple of frustrating hitches recently, perhaps someone knows what the problem is?
Firstly, my latest coat of car rattle-can paint (on the cab / tank structure) came out badly, like a dull matt finish. This didn't happen on previous coats of the same paint. Was this my own fault for doing it on a day with too much moisture in the air, or is it some other mistake?
Also, I've used Humbrol model paints for some detail, specifically red for the buffer beams. I cannot get a good finish on it at all, even after several coats, and it doesn't seem to adhere very well either. I don't remember having this problem as a teenager painting Airfix models or stuff for my N gauge layout. This was a while ago, mind, and in the intervening years these paints appear to have switched from an oil to water based formula. Are the paints just not as good anymore, or not suitable for Plasticard? What are other people using?
Thanks for your help
To answer this point, it isn't 'you', it's Humbrol. The early stuff we all knew and loved, stopped being made back in about 2006 when the company went bust and was bought by Hornby. They shifted production to China ( surprise!) and the quality went down the pan( even bigger surprise!!). Although they subsequently brought production back to the UK it is still not a patch on the original stuff. Main problem is its very poor covering power needing many coats to get any depth of colour.
Acrylic paints have become the paint of choice for many people. Revell do a good range, and Games Workshop/Citadel are pricey but very good although they only do strange colours with weird names!
Once the model is painted I spray locomotive bodywork (plastikard models) with a Satin Clear Lacquer, which gives a consistent finish, or matt lacquer for goods rolling stock. Sometimes a light matt spray over a satin coat gives a nice finish.
Humbrol paints are not used on the BURPS.
Responsibly if course
You won't go far wrong with following Peter's advice. I do, putting a grey primer on before painting with any medium, wether its rattle can, brush or spray brush. Damp conditions is a no go with rattle cans or spray brushing. Use some wet and dry and give the paint work a good smoothing out and try again, hopefully in dryer conditions and see how it goes. You should get a better result.
Now just waiting for a nice dry day to re-spray my loco!
Peter, those both look amazing! Great job. What did you use for the lining?Peter Butler wrote: ↑Tue Jun 30, 2020 8:43 pmI use rattle can acrylics on most of my models, always beginning with a grey primer on all surfaces. Sometimes the finish can vary according to the colour, make, undercoat, cold or damp conditions. For detailing, such as buffer beams etc, I always use Games Workshop acrylics, which are not cheap as Philip has pointed out, but excellent quality having dense pigment. They leave no brush strokes after drying.
Once the model is painted I spray locomotive bodywork (plastikard models) with a Satin Clear Lacquer, which gives a consistent finish, or matt lacquer for goods rolling stock.
Sometimes a light matt spray over a satin coat gives a nice finish.
Humbrol paints are not used on the BURPS.
To get the best out of them store upside down and mix throughly!
Once applied I use the acrylic lacquer to seal it in position.
Meanwhile, I've also added lead weights to the inside of the side tanks and the coal bunker, to (hopefully) improve the traction, as there is very little weight in either the little chassis or the plasticard body. This weekend's job will be to have another look at the wiring, I seem to have a poor connection somewhere.
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