Slaters 2 ton slate wagon

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tom_tom_go
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Re: Slaters 2 ton slate wagon

Post by tom_tom_go » Sat Dec 28, 2019 5:51 pm

If the chemical blackening peels off it means you have over done it on applying the solution or not prepared the item surfaces correctly.

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Re: Slaters 2 ton slate wagon

Post by River Lin » Tue Dec 31, 2019 3:14 pm

Or too concentrated a solution so i have read. I have used "Jollop" at a dilution of about 1:10 but still have to watch carefully so it does not overdo.
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Re: Slaters 2 ton slate wagon

Post by Paul_in_Ricky » Thu Jan 09, 2020 9:24 am

An interesting thread and sorry to comment late to it. It seems to take a long time to get permission to join this forum.

I thought this kit, well the braked version in my case, would be a nice gentle reintroduction for me to return to 16mm modelling after a very long gap.

Looking at this thread; Great soldering skill on your model.
The choice of fixing the axle boxes with nuts and bolts is a good move. Although the supplied square head bolt heads are prototypical, they're a real faff to glue up and can't ever be removed should maintenance be needed in future.
The rivet dilemma is something I considered and chose the other method, I punched the rivet etches with an automatic centre punch. I think it may have been a bit too subtle once painted compared to the practice of drilling out and replacing with 'real' rivets. It will be interesting to see how painting your wagon will tame the, what some might consider as, slightly over-scale appearance, especially when compared to the real museum piece in your photo.

Worth noting that the braked version of this kit adds a significant addition of complexity to the construction. Getting the whole 'brake chain' assembled, fitted and not fouling the wheels is quite challenge I would happily have avoided if I'd known what it would involve.

Mine's been given a coat of Phoenix etching primer and gloss mid-grey enamel, with the start of detailing for a Maen-Offeren quarry wagon not quite yet complete. Once I've practised a bit, I'll weather it down to something less new and shiny too. I think I'll also have to get some unbraked ones to make a more complete rake.
Slater FR wagon.jpg

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Re: Slaters 2 ton slate wagon

Post by Andrew » Thu Jan 09, 2020 10:25 am

That looks very nice indeed! It took me a second glance to realise it wasn't a real one on display in a museum!

All the best,

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Re: Slaters 2 ton slate wagon

Post by River Lin » Thu Jan 09, 2020 8:15 pm

Hi all.
Underframes completed for the the other three wagons. Bolted axle boxes as No. 1.
IMG_20200109_160704.jpg
Difficult to see but the third underframe from the left is for a braked wagon. I am leaving it unbraked for now as I complete the bodies but holes are drilled ready to take the brake gear at a later date. One nice touch by Slaters is to supply curly spoked wheels for the unbraked model and drilled solid wheels for the braked model.
I now have the three remaining body frames drilled and rivetted ready to be cut from their frets, folded and assembled. The two frets on the left show the rivets while the one on the right shows the back of the frets after the rivets have been clipped off and filed smooth. Notice that some rivets have to be fastened from the back of the fret.
IMG_20200109_160723.jpg
I hope my models look as good as yours Paul when painted. I will be going for a rusty grey primer look when completed.
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Re: Slaters 2 ton slate wagon

Post by TonyW » Fri Jan 10, 2020 9:27 am

River Lin wrote:
Thu Jan 09, 2020 8:15 pm
One nice touch by Slaters is to supply curly spoked wheels for the unbraked model and drilled solid wheels for the braked model.
You may also notice that the braked one has different axle boxes (the 16A03 side bolt type) too. There are three wheel types valid for use on FR slate wagons, Slaters codes 1618FRC 1'6" 6 Curly Spoke Wagon Wheel, 1618FRD 1'6" 3 Oval Hole Disc Wagon Wheel and 1618FRW 1'6" 1'6" 6 Spoke Web Wagon Wheel, although the curly spoke wheels are far more common than the other two. All three wheel types and both axle box types may be mixed and matched as needed, irrespective of wagon type. Wagons also exist(ed) with mismatched wheel types.

My experience is that if you ask Slaters nicely they will swap wheels and axle boxes for different types when the kits are ordered.

I've built loads of these, and I like 'em gnarly: Image
Tony Willmore
Rhos Helyg Locomotive Works: http://www.rhoshelyg.me.uk
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/RhosHelygLocoWorks

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Re: Slaters 2 ton slate wagon

Post by River Lin » Fri Jan 10, 2020 11:30 am

Hi Tony.
That i like. :lol: Any chance of a rusty weathering tutorial?
Interesting about the wheels and axle boxes. I suppose over a hundred years or so parts are bound to get mixed up as wheels get saved and reused from rusted away bodies etc.
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Re: Slaters 2 ton slate wagon

Post by TonyW » Fri Jan 10, 2020 12:13 pm

River Lin wrote:
Fri Jan 10, 2020 11:30 am
Any chance of a rusty weathering tutorial?
Well...
- The rust is real iron oxide, not weathering powders, so if you leave them out in the rain they go more rusty.
- The only stuff that goes rusty is iron, or contains iron.
- Once painted, they take less than a minute to prepare, but they are not rusty.
- A liquid condiment speeds the process.
- Ebay could be your friend.

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Re: Slaters 2 ton slate wagon

Post by Paul_in_Ricky » Fri Jan 10, 2020 12:24 pm

TonyW wrote:
Fri Jan 10, 2020 9:27 am
I've built loads of these, and I like 'em gnarly:
Lovely work there.

What do you use to apply the iron fillings ?

It would be interesting to read a good and detailed weathering tutorial that is specifically for 16mm scale. I'm not sure that the 4mm techniques so widely reported all necessarily scale up well or can't be enhanced by coarser materials.

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Re: Slaters 2 ton slate wagon

Post by River Lin » Fri Jan 10, 2020 5:43 pm

Hi all.
The three wagon bodies are now cut from the frets and i have now folded and put them together with their bases ready for soldering tomorrow. I have used some old wire to hold them together while i solder. The top rails are just resting in position on their tabs so i can remove them after soldering to ensure the top edges are perfectly flat before re positioning and joining them permenently.
IMG_20200110_170650.jpg
In the front of the mat is the butane torch I use. Reading reviews, some folks don't get on with this model but it works fine for me providing I follow certain rules.
- fill with butane downwards for about 10 seconds.
- Allow to rest for a minute or so.
- On first lighting the flame is yellow and coarse and may pop itself out. This may happen a couple of times but does settle down and give the correct double blue pointed flame.
- I can then turn it off and on as required. I soldered the three underframes in one session on two fillings.
- I brush on La-Co flux to stop oxidation on the surface of the brass and it washes off easily afterwards. Being a resin flux it is non toxic (I read).
These torches, by the way, I buy online for £3.29 inc postage and they give a lovely small and controllable flame. I am on my second one in two years, as the 1st. developed a slight leak so I binned it. At that price it is affordable to always have a good one.
David.
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