Re: Another Wild Rose Project
Posted: Wed May 01, 2019 9:14 am
Those are excellent posts lads. Very informative
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I completely echo this, it's so much easier to learn from someone showing you something directly and it would be a privilege to have such skills to hand to learn all these things and more. We are lucky on here to have such skilled people willing to share their skills and experience. Unfortunately there is a distant lack of engineering people around this area, if I wanted someone to teach me how to do a lecture on boimechanical neutron partical theory, then I could line them up down the road, that's Cambridge for you!tom_tom_go wrote: ↑Tue Apr 30, 2019 7:53 pm I wished I live near people that could show me hands on skills like these so this is the next best thing...
You're kind of missing the meaning of the words 'retirement hobby'.......Busted Bricks wrote: ↑Tue Apr 30, 2019 9:22 pm Cutting sheet metal is a job for a laser! Cutting time on a frame for a 16mm scale loco is measured in seconds.
Not really - even people with lots of time on their hands might find certain tasks tedious or difficult and if they need to buy in new tools there may not be any saving. In my hobbies there are certain things I make myself and there are things I buy in. Does anyone make their own gas valves for instance? I'm also pretty sure there are members of this forum who are not yet retired and my original response was not aimed at you directly.GTB wrote: ↑Wed May 01, 2019 11:49 amYou're kind of missing the meaning of the words 'retirement hobby'.......Busted Bricks wrote: ↑Tue Apr 30, 2019 9:22 pm Cutting sheet metal is a job for a laser! Cutting time on a frame for a 16mm scale loco is measured in seconds.
Depends on what you mean by gas valve. I often make my own gas control valves and a lot of published 16mm designs include the gas control valve.
Good to know they are well thought of. Yes that's the one, LBCS, I couldn't remember earlier
I am sure you will rectify and remake any parts necessaryOily Rag wrote: ↑Wed May 01, 2019 7:35 pm As the 25 quid. That was what my pal said it owed him. He had bid for those boxes of bits, some old Mamods and the like and those parts for the MINNIE just happend to be in the bottom of one of the boxes. A great find both for him and me. There have been many MINNIEs made and there is now even a set of drawings on the 'net for a metric version.
Some of the castings I have, have been badly machined but won't be too bad to hack out of solid. Its one of things like a good book, I can pick it up and put it down without any pressure as the mood takes. Really my next move with it is to make a jig suggested in the book to spoke up the wheels. I do want to change the design of the jig a bit to suit my methods of working but all will come out of scrap, offcut bits and a piece of 3/4" ply left over from topping out the workbenches.We too have had harder times financially so often making things was the only option. You know its fun! Really.And now I want to make everything, have a better garden (for the railway of course ahem) but that is not completely possible so my time is fuller than ever.
I agree Dave...dewintondave wrote: ↑Thu May 02, 2019 8:11 am I think it's important to keep using the saws and files, otherwise the skills will drop off. I made a gas valve for an engine, lovely fine thread and fine taper, it was just like making a regulator. It's fitted to the 220g gas cylinder adaptor, I bought the hand wheel though
The cylinder assembly looks good.
Hi Graeme
Thanks for the compliment but I think the skills lay with others and I am merely "grasshopper", the student in training, lol Of course I try my best but sometimes the results end up in the bin, other times, well, they might pass, the time will tell when it comes to try to "fire it" up on air. With all the "bodges" and extra fettling I am doing I am not holding my breath. That said, they say the Wild Rose is good for a beginner, but I am thinking I would have been better off starting with an oscillator type engine like Brick or Idris, but hey, I guess that's just me, jump in the deep end and and give it a goFWLR wrote: ↑Thu May 02, 2019 9:36 amI agree Dave...dewintondave wrote: ↑Thu May 02, 2019 8:11 am I think it's important to keep using the saws and files, otherwise the skills will drop off. I made a gas valve for an engine, lovely fine thread and fine taper, it was just like making a regulator. It's fitted to the 220g gas cylinder adaptor, I bought the hand wheel though
This thread is brilliant and the use of hand tools really does show off people skills, especially yours Steve..
The use of laser cut parts and CNC machining are very good especially if there is a long run to be done. I used to be CNC setter and operator and you just can't beat them for being accurate, but remember they are doing the work. Not a person, so when you hold something that has been made by someone rather than a machine, they do feel different. In my mind anyway....
Looks like it might be designed to seal with an o-ring, like the steam inlet tee on Roundhouse cylinders. (A fitting I dislike intensely.....)
Thanks GraemeGTB wrote: ↑Fri May 03, 2019 4:36 pmLooks like it might be designed to seal with an o-ring, like the steam inlet tee on Roundhouse cylinders. (A fitting I dislike intensely.....)
If so, I'm not sure what size O-ring is intended to be used, as there's nothing on the drawing. A BS003 o-ring won't fit into a 3/16" ME nut which has a thread minor dia. of 5/32". By the time a BS003 o-ring is fitted over a 3/32" tube the od will about 7/32".
The only o-ring I have that might work with the fittings as drawn is a metric 4mm x 1mm size. With metric o-rings the first number is the od and the second one is the cross section and that's how you order them around here. In this case the hole in the doughnut works out to be 2mm dia., so it will be a tight fit with a 3/32" pipe in a 3/16" ME fitting and may take a fight to get into place.
I don't use o-rings for much except piston rings, gas valve glands and gauge glasses, so Ian or another builder may have a better suggestion.
Regards,
Graeme
Ian
You don't flare the steam pipe, the design of joint shown relies on the friction from the compressed o-ring to stop the pipe sliding out, which I why I don't like them. In the case of the steam inlet tee on Roundhouse cylinders, once assembled the tee can't really go anywhere and I've never seen one move as both joints are at much the same pressure.
Thanks Ian, I will have a look at what I think I will be able to make to work in there. I need to remake it anyway as I have drilled it all as 3mm instead of 3/32, my bad, I assumed this was the same thing until I looked it up and found out its nearer to 2.4mm. Live and learn
I like the idea of what is in the picture, but being flat to flat I am not sure how well it would seal, but at least I could hard solder that flange on and be assured of it not pulling out. I may try and put a 60 degree cone on the connection and see what happens, after all it's only a little brass and time if it doesn't work, lolGTB wrote: ↑Sat May 04, 2019 11:47 am
Pipe fitting-2.jpg
I've got a vague idea I made a few of this type before I worked out that a 60deg conical seat could be easily made with a centre drill and I then quickly standardised on coned pipe fittings for all steam and gas pipework. The one in the photo is 3/16" ME for 1/16" tubing, so may be a leftover from my Argyle Philadelphia loco rebuild, as that has 1/16" gas pipework.
Regards,
Graeme