Garden Railway Forum

Sector plates are quite simple to make compared to traverser tables In the second image i have soldered brass tube to the rails and used brass wire as a bolt to lock the track in position.

Preseli Chris wrote: Tue Aug 06, 2024 10:35 am Sector plates are quite simple to make compared to traverser tables

In the second image i have soldered brass tube to the rails and used brass wire as a bolt to lock the track in position.

sector plate.jpg

Hmmm. Maybe - I'll have a measure up and see if the space/geometry works for me. Thanks.

Thats actually a pretty neat idea Chris.

Petersfield wrote: Mon Aug 05, 2024 7:07 pm

SimonWood wrote: Mon Aug 05, 2024 9:44 am I've actually done a vertical fiddle (very crudely) in my shed (converted pig sty). It's a cross between shelves and the Denny cassette system. I thought I'd written it up somewhere, but I can't find it, I will dig out some pics. Like I say, it's very crude, and the shelves are heavy, but it beats having to rail and couple up the stock every time.

I'd be interested to see that when you have chance to find/post the photos.

Ok, I’ve found and (re)posted the photos on my blog. I did say it’s a very crude system, but it does what I need it to do for now!

Just looked at your blog Simon. I think they are brilliantly done and you may think it's crude, but it works doesn't it. And well thought out with the braking systems you have done also.

FWLR wrote: Wed Aug 14, 2024 6:27 am Just looked at your blog Simon. I think they are brilliantly done and you may think it's crude, but it works doesn't it. And well thought out with the braking systems you have done also.

Thanks for your kind words, Rod. Yes, it does work, and that's what I needed - some kind of proof that this idea would provide what I hoped, because that means it's worth putting the time and resources into improving it (at some point...!) I don't have the skills or confidence to know this is exactly what I need and there for I will spend hours and pounds on the perfect implementation of it, before I've even tried it!

SimonWood wrote: Tue Aug 13, 2024 9:07 pm

Petersfield wrote: Mon Aug 05, 2024 7:07 pm

SimonWood wrote: Mon Aug 05, 2024 9:44 am I've actually done a vertical fiddle (very crudely) in my shed (converted pig sty). It's a cross between shelves and the Denny cassette system. I thought I'd written it up somewhere, but I can't find it, I will dig out some pics. Like I say, it's very crude, and the shelves are heavy, but it beats having to rail and couple up the stock every time.

I'd be interested to see that when you have chance to find/post the photos.

Ok, I’ve found and (re)posted the photos on my blog. I did say it’s a very crude system, but it does what I need it to do for now!

That's food for thought Simon, thank you. It's possible to get tile backing board which is light and rigid which could replace your wooden shelves, although it may require some form of stiffening (aluminium right angle?) to prevent sag in a horizontal alignment.
https://www.wickes.co.uk/ProWarm-BACKER ... /p/166935#

Do you have any problems with dust/cobwebs/insects etc when the stock is stored in the shed?

Lonsdaler wrote: Wed Aug 14, 2024 10:31 am That's food for thought Simon, thank you. It's possible to get tile backing board which is light and rigid which could replace your wooden shelves, although it may require some form of stiffening (aluminium right angle?) to prevent sag in a horizontal alignment.
https://www.wickes.co.uk/ProWarm-BACKER ... /p/166935#

That's a great tip, thank you, I'll have a play with that. The angle I use is quite flimsy, but I could get something more robust - also I'd need a join in the board as my shelves are 1800mm. Looks like there's potential here, I'll get a sheet with my next Wickes order.

StuartJ wrote: Wed Aug 14, 2024 10:47 am Do you have any problems with dust/cobwebs/insects etc when the stock is stored in the shed?

No doubt about it, there's loads of dust and insects and even a few snails. I don't like to leave stuff there for too long, and certain models always go back in their boxes at the end of a run.

SimonWood wrote: Tue Aug 13, 2024 9:07 pm I've actually done a vertical fiddle (very crudely) in my shed (converted pig sty). It's a cross between shelves and the Denny cassette system. I thought I'd written it up somewhere, but I can't find it, I will dig out some pics. Like I say, it's very crude, and the shelves are heavy, but it beats having to rail and couple up the stock every time.

Ok, I’ve found and (re)posted the photos on my blog. I did say it’s a very crude system, but it does what I need it to do for now!

Thanks, interesting to see that and definitely food for thought.

Well, 2025 saw much less progress than I hoped for. The replacement of the conservatory made a big hole in the spring-summer period and then the summer and autumn saw numerous domestic and personal issues demanding urgent and extensive attention. However, the generally milder temperatures have helped extend the construction season into December and I have been able to continue block laying and concreting until recently.

The photo below shows the south or garage end of the steaming up/cool down station yard. A new wall was built as a ‘counterscarp’ to the garage wall itself, to reduce damp problems. A dividing wall was constructed to parallel the existing (low) patio wall and act as the second base wall for slabs. The space in between was filled with flint rubble and some tatty old bricks, once compacted this forms a secondary supporting base for the slabs and allows any water percolating through to drain away via weepholes I created in the old and new walls. The strip next to the garden wall was excavated and much vegetable matter and rotted manure mixed in – when I’ve finished repointing the wall and it’s painted (spring 2026?) then I’ll plant a couple of climbing plants and some lower ground level items.


The height of the slabs now is around two blocks (laid on their largest face) and mortar layers below the ‘cat flap’ in the garage wall. I plan a ‘spine’ down the [central] edge of the slab for the main line and will add support for the loop and sidings when I am clearer as to exactly where they are going. The idea is that when everything is built and tested, I’ll put some earth/gravel/compost in the spaces in between and this will let me grow some ground cover plants in the station area so it’s not all bare stone and track. The slabs are laid on a slight slope so water should drain towards the path. I hope that this and various weepholes I’ll include in the track support walls will stop these areas being too boggy.

On the other side of the garden, I had to attend to other significant civil engineering works due to last year’s Storm D’arrrgh. Two retaining walls (and much drainage!) were installed for the raised flowerbed in the corner. The boundary side of this has been planted with hazel and hawthorn, together with some wild flowers – experts might be able to spot the Red Campion and Herb Robert. Some bulbs are in there too. Somewhere!
Backtracking towards the photographer, the line of blocks went in on an approximate five foot radius curve – these are not the finished PW but placeholders, so plant roots will not be disturbed when the time comes to lay the track permanently. I expect it to be two years or more before I reach this corner, it is down in Stage 3 (of 3) of construction.


I attach a revised plan – this may well change again when construction springs out of the garage ‘bridgehead’. The main change is the expansion of the ‘other’ station in the corner – I thought two or three extra sidings would be very useful both for extra operating interest and for coping with guests’ stock on running days for the local group. I do wonder how popular an end to end (‘I’ or ‘Y’) system will be until I can finish the circuit? We will have to pay attention to our signalling. Provisionally, I plan to adopt Tal y llyn practice, with limit of shunt and ‘U’ boards going in on the trackside. I don’t mind acting as a blockman or bobby but I seem to be in a minority in the local group there, so I’m working on most signalling and point changing being done by the driver(s).

Have you thought of putting a triangle junction where the terminus joins the main circuit? It would give a few more options operationally.

Rik

ge_rik wrote: Thu Dec 25, 2025 9:00 pm Have you thought of putting a triangle junction where the terminus joins the main circuit? It would give a few more options operationally.

Rik

Morning Rik,

Yes to both. Triangular junctions/stations have an appeal for me and I spent quite a bit of time trying to work something out for a station there instead of a few feet closer to the garage. But the problem with that is a very large bush/small tree - which I don't want to lose and in any case would be serious effort to remove - is smack bang in the way. One possibility may be to put a chord in using small ground spikes and planking for the track rather than the blocks I plan for 80% of the rest of the trackwork. Though if I do, it would have to curve round the trunk of said shrub and that messes up the geometry of that corner. It would also have a cascade effect on the rest of the trackplan next to the house, which is on a tight tolerance already. I see why you (and one of my local group) have suggested it and I'm not against the idea in principle. Never say never and I have a few months before I'm going to be at that stage of construction but if I do, it will have to be something ingenious.

The groundwork (physical and otherwise) and background life time-suckers are so often pure drudgery, but slogging through it is what makes the good stuff possible.

The current track plan is looking good already.

It's high time for an update!

The groundwork for the spur station continues. Most of the first level is complete and I am now stalled until the points issue is resolved and I know whose points I will be laying and what radius they are. Once this is sorted, I will lay blocks under the lines, leaving space in between for soil and plants so we can have a proper rural station with some greenery and not just an expanse of concrete. I will leave some of the lower level [slabs] exposed to kneel on or place steaming paraphernalia on but want the middle and back areas to be 'landscaped'.

Some more painting and pointing on the rear wall has been done but I am rather behind schedule. The new garden wall progresses, with blocks both laid and selected ready for the next batch of mortar. This morning I worked on the new steps onto the lawn (right centre second photo), digging foundations and selecting blocks. Progress was made but the soil is desperately hard, we've had well over a month without rain and the ground is very hard. Someone broke the pick earlier.... which will delay things a bit until we can sort a repair or replacement.

I do like seeing some civil engineering underway

Rik

ge_rik wrote: Sun Jul 19, 2026 5:03 pm I do like seeing some civil engineering underway

Rik

A little more then . Just round the corner from the [spur station] I am constructing a new step into the garden. When I first moved in, there was a large patio at the rear of the house. This was made from concrete slabs and drainage relied on soakaways. As the conservatory floor was at the same height as the patio, this was changed PDQ!


As there were well over a hundred slabs and I was still convalescing from major surgery, builders were employed to do the heavy work. Most of the slabs were lifted - some were cut to provide edging for a new path - and channel drains were installed. A heavy duty membrane was laid and chippings spread on top. A trench was cut to provide a foundation for the new garden wall (photo below). Even allowing for potential open days for the 16mm Association local group, we didn't need that large a patio. And I wanted a more aesthetically pleasing wall, rather than concrete blocks.


A 'little later' and I've laid some Purbeck Stone blocks on the foundations the builders installed. The new steps are slightly recessed, about where the left clump of (white) Iberis is in the first photo. I hope the layout is reasonably obvious, with a pair of steps up to the lawn. The white template is a piece of foamboard, cut to provide a guide for laying the blocks in a smooth arc. That area will be filled with drainage stone and chippings - the aggregate blocks will be covered by these and only the Purbeck stone side walls (not yet placed) will be visible. I'll include a sequence of weepholes to ensure good drainage.

The railway will pass over on a removeable bridge at about another block higher than the one laid flat on the LHS. About where that block is will be a point (a Y?) and the other chord (on the far side as pictured) will curve off to the top left and away up the garden. The whole top left is what I have called 'rockery' in my original plan before I started looking hard at the Callistemon and wondering whether I really want to (or can!) lose it. (If I do, there's a very good chance I will try for the suggestion of putting a triangular junction in).