The New??? Mamod Locomotive Mark II
- Chris Cairns
- Driver
- Posts: 2366
- Joined: Mon Oct 29, 2007 7:25 pm
- Location: Glasgow, Scotland
It is a problem with the format that Photobucket use to display their video files. I know from that other Forum that many members there complain about being unable to see Photobucket videos and asking the uploader to put them up on YouTube, etc. Apple computers seem to have the biggest problem.
I can still view those photobucket videos OK (using MS Vista plus lots of codecs).
Chris Cairns.
I can still view those photobucket videos OK (using MS Vista plus lots of codecs).
Chris Cairns.
I finally managed to disassemble a New Mamod cylinder
First we have Naming of Parts - feel free to use the correct terminology
A Cylinder block
B Piston head with gland
C Extra bit that looks like it's turned from the cylinder block but is in fact a force fit
D Piston rod gland
E Cylinder cap
F Piston rod
G Big end
Most of this disassembly is fairly obvious except for C, henceforth known as the Extra Bit, or EB. The trick is to hold the cylinder in a vice (with padding) and over-tighten the cylinder cap (E) with a spanner until the EB turns in the cylinder and can be wrenched out with pliers. The cylinder cap can be removed from the EB by clamping the EB in the vice and using the spanner in reverse to loosen it. No teeth were removed in this process.
Even a moderate pull seems to remove the Piston Rod (F) from the piston head (D), but it seems to click back OK.
Now we can remove the Piston Head (B) from the cylinder (A). "How?", you ask. This is the clever bit. Fill a syringe with water, squirt it into to the forward port of the cylinder, and the head pops out. Neat, eh?
My problem, incidentally, seems to have been a bent piston rod (much more bent than (F) in the picture). Perhaps a stainless steel replacement would be in order?
The O-ring on the piston head looked fairly inadequate, too. It had a slightly smaller external diameter than the head into which it fitted, which surely can't be right.
First we have Naming of Parts - feel free to use the correct terminology
A Cylinder block
B Piston head with gland
C Extra bit that looks like it's turned from the cylinder block but is in fact a force fit
D Piston rod gland
E Cylinder cap
F Piston rod
G Big end
Most of this disassembly is fairly obvious except for C, henceforth known as the Extra Bit, or EB. The trick is to hold the cylinder in a vice (with padding) and over-tighten the cylinder cap (E) with a spanner until the EB turns in the cylinder and can be wrenched out with pliers. The cylinder cap can be removed from the EB by clamping the EB in the vice and using the spanner in reverse to loosen it. No teeth were removed in this process.
Even a moderate pull seems to remove the Piston Rod (F) from the piston head (D), but it seems to click back OK.
Now we can remove the Piston Head (B) from the cylinder (A). "How?", you ask. This is the clever bit. Fill a syringe with water, squirt it into to the forward port of the cylinder, and the head pops out. Neat, eh?
My problem, incidentally, seems to have been a bent piston rod (much more bent than (F) in the picture). Perhaps a stainless steel replacement would be in order?
The O-ring on the piston head looked fairly inadequate, too. It had a slightly smaller external diameter than the head into which it fitted, which surely can't be right.
- Chris Cairns
- Driver
- Posts: 2366
- Joined: Mon Oct 29, 2007 7:25 pm
- Location: Glasgow, Scotland
- Chris Cairns
- Driver
- Posts: 2366
- Joined: Mon Oct 29, 2007 7:25 pm
- Location: Glasgow, Scotland
Not to mention using a brass piston rod. I wonder what the other one will look like when I dismantle it?Chris Cairns:90083 wrote:John,
Thank You for posting the photo of a dismantled current Mamod oscillating cylinder.
So what were Mamod thinking of by using 'O' ring pistons without a proper lubricator on the Mamod Train/Mark I locomotive? Glad I managed to fit a dead leg lubricator to mine.
Chris Cairns.
Much the same, really.Aizoon:90088 wrote:
Not to mention using a brass piston rod. I wonder what the other one will look like when I dismantle it?
I've replaced the O-ring on one cylinder and the improvement is dramatic, at least when testing the cylinder alone. Can I just ask what type of O-ring I need? I only had one in stock and need to replace the other.
- Chris Cairns
- Driver
- Posts: 2366
- Joined: Mon Oct 29, 2007 7:25 pm
- Location: Glasgow, Scotland
John,
As you are the first owner to successfully take apart a new style Mamod oscillating cylinder that I'm aware of then I do not think anyone here will be able to provide you with the correct 'O' size.
From the updates that Mike Wakefield posted regarding the stalled Thomas Telford project Mamod use nitrile 'O' rings. From research on-line and a recommendation from another live steam Club I've found that using viton 'O' rings instead should give better results.
A phone call to Peter Johnston at Mamod should get you the right size, and if he has any in stock I'm sure Peter would post you a couple.
If you do get the correct size posting that information here would be very useful for future reference.
Chris Cairns.
As you are the first owner to successfully take apart a new style Mamod oscillating cylinder that I'm aware of then I do not think anyone here will be able to provide you with the correct 'O' size.
From the updates that Mike Wakefield posted regarding the stalled Thomas Telford project Mamod use nitrile 'O' rings. From research on-line and a recommendation from another live steam Club I've found that using viton 'O' rings instead should give better results.
A phone call to Peter Johnston at Mamod should get you the right size, and if he has any in stock I'm sure Peter would post you a couple.
If you do get the correct size posting that information here would be very useful for future reference.
Chris Cairns.
It wasn't really the size I needed, Chris, it was the type. Of course, due to Sod's Law, the first site I found when searching talked of "Vitron", which I couldn't find. When I realised it was Viton, I ordered 10 each of 5, 6, and 7mm, although I'm pretty sure it's 6mm.
They're dirt cheap anyway,and it's useful to have a range. I'll report back on progress when they arrive.
They're dirt cheap anyway,and it's useful to have a range. I'll report back on progress when they arrive.
- Chris Cairns
- Driver
- Posts: 2366
- Joined: Mon Oct 29, 2007 7:25 pm
- Location: Glasgow, Scotland
SAGE OF WOOKEY bench tests 6/10/13
RH new cylinder with ordinary 6mm I/D 1.5mm C/S O-ring
LH old cylinder with thicker 6mm I/D 2mm? C/S O-ring
1. Cylinders dead centre - some steam from exhaust. Needs investigation. Reverser in mid kills steam as does regulator.
2. RH Cylinder in forward but not connected LH in dead centre - steam and water persisting from exhaust
3. LH Cylinder in forward but not connected RH in dead centre - some steam from exhaust but not much more than (1)
4. LH pinned and RH cylinder connected - Won't run and steam persisting out of exhaust.
5. RH pinned and LH cylinder connected - Runs well with proportionate exhaust.
Conclusion. O-ring supplied is right I/D but wrong C/S.
Action - get thicker (2mm C/S?) O - ring.
I/D - internal diameter
C/S - cross section
RH new cylinder with ordinary 6mm I/D 1.5mm C/S O-ring
LH old cylinder with thicker 6mm I/D 2mm? C/S O-ring
1. Cylinders dead centre - some steam from exhaust. Needs investigation. Reverser in mid kills steam as does regulator.
2. RH Cylinder in forward but not connected LH in dead centre - steam and water persisting from exhaust
3. LH Cylinder in forward but not connected RH in dead centre - some steam from exhaust but not much more than (1)
4. LH pinned and RH cylinder connected - Won't run and steam persisting out of exhaust.
5. RH pinned and LH cylinder connected - Runs well with proportionate exhaust.
Conclusion. O-ring supplied is right I/D but wrong C/S.
Action - get thicker (2mm C/S?) O - ring.
I/D - internal diameter
C/S - cross section
Well, there you go. A 2mm cross-section O-ring does make the cylinder steam-tight. Unfortunately, it's also too tight to move freely. I tried turning one down slightly, but then the surface is no longer smooth - same problem
In desperation, I turned to my faithful PTFE tape - result! Even with the remains of an ancient roll of tape wound round in the cylinder head groove, eppur si muove - she runs
Have ordered some less manky tape and will try again to tune up the beast. It will be interesting to see how well it lasts.
Later Got some more tape and adjusted the packing. Works like a dream. Hauling twelve axles on my ferocious 14" (355mm) radius heavily graded indoor line, it runs sweetly at a sensible speed.
After some very necessary cosmetic work, SAGE OF WOOKEY will return to service.
In desperation, I turned to my faithful PTFE tape - result! Even with the remains of an ancient roll of tape wound round in the cylinder head groove, eppur si muove - she runs
Have ordered some less manky tape and will try again to tune up the beast. It will be interesting to see how well it lasts.
Later Got some more tape and adjusted the packing. Works like a dream. Hauling twelve axles on my ferocious 14" (355mm) radius heavily graded indoor line, it runs sweetly at a sensible speed.
After some very necessary cosmetic work, SAGE OF WOOKEY will return to service.
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