I've been having touble with the regulator not shutting on my "Russell" recently. I've already put the trimmer to the bottom setting, and the manual advises: "when it reaches the bottom, it is time to reset it to the top and adjust the linkage between the servo and the regulator in the cab".
Now how exactly do I do this? Apologies if this has been asked before, I did a quick search but couldn't find anything.
Regulator adjustment
-
MDLR
If it's anything like my Jack, it's easy peasy! Where the wire from the servo attaches to the regulator, there's a screw which clamps the wire in place. Undo this and you can adjust the regulator. I'd shut the regulator with the R/C, switch it off, slacken the screw then just about close the regulator manually before re-tightening the screw. That should do it!
-
LMS-Jools
but dont forget to set the trim correctly before you do anything else such that you will regain some adjustment on this. Personally I would put the trim about half to two thirds away from closed then close the regulator on the main stick or wheel of the transmitter then do the mechanical adjustment as described above.
-
tom_tom_go
- Driver
- Posts: 4824
- Joined: Wed Feb 23, 2011 3:08 am
- Location: Kent, UK
- Contact:
-
MuzTrem
Have had a go at adjusting the screw as suggested but it seems to be stuck, I can't make it move at all...-
tom_tom_go
- Driver
- Posts: 4824
- Joined: Wed Feb 23, 2011 3:08 am
- Location: Kent, UK
- Contact:
Sorry MuzTrem you are right it does not provide details!
Undo the screw that secures the rod to your regulator servo and move the servo down so the rod comes out of the hole in the R/C regulator arm. You can now undo the grub screw holding the arm and slide if off.
The below is from the RH R/C fitting kit for Lady Anne which explains the rest:
Turn the regulator spindle clockwise with you fingers to close it, but do not force it. Fit the regulator arm to the spindle placing it roughly parallel to the servo horn and nip up the grub screw using the same Allen key supplied for the wheel grub screws. Using the straight linkage, Quicklink and locknut, connect the regulator arm to the servo horn as shown in diagram 3. The Quicklink should fit in either the 2nd or 3rd hole on the servo horn. Setting and adjustment of the regulator is best done with the locomotive in steam and with the chassis supported on two wooden blocks under the chassis to raise the wheels off the bench. Ensure that the regulator is closed when raising steam.
With full working pressure raised, switch on both transmitter and receiver and move the locomotive into gear with the right hand lever on the transmitter. Open the regulator by slowly moving the left-hand lever upwards and find the position at which the engine starts to run. Move the arm backwards and forwards a few times to establish the position at which it closes and leave it
there. If the regulator does not open or fails to close fully, slacken the grub screw holding the regulator arm in place, remove the arm and turn the spindle manually (careful as its hot!) to find
the point at which it just closes. Move the control lever on the transmitter to the bottom and replace the regulator arm. Proceed as before to find its closing position and leave it there.
Carefully slacken the grub screw and move the control lever to the bottom without moving the spindle. Nip up the grub screw. You can make fine adjustments to the linkage now until the
regulator closes fully with the control lever at the bottom. Because of the ‘0’ ring used in the r/c type regulator, you should aim for the wheels to start moving when you have moved the control
lever on the transmitter about halfway up. This is because the ‘0’ ring will compress slightly into its seat when fully closed. You may need to adjust the position of the arm on the spindle, the
control rod in the push rod connector, or both to achieve this. You should also check that when fully open, the servo horn does not protrude below track level. Trim off any excess servo horn to
ensure that this does not happen. When satisfied that all is adjusted correctly, tighten all screws, switch off the gas burner and r/c equipment and disconnect battery clip. The trimmer at the side of the control arm can be used in the future to compensate for wear and compression of the ‘0’ ring. As time passes, you may find that the regulator does not fully close when the control lever is at the bottom. As this happens, the trimmer can be moved down a little at a time to compensate.
It's not hard to do so don't be put off by the above, just protect your hands while doing it otherwise you WILL get burnt!
Cheers,
Tom
RWLR
Undo the screw that secures the rod to your regulator servo and move the servo down so the rod comes out of the hole in the R/C regulator arm. You can now undo the grub screw holding the arm and slide if off.
The below is from the RH R/C fitting kit for Lady Anne which explains the rest:
Turn the regulator spindle clockwise with you fingers to close it, but do not force it. Fit the regulator arm to the spindle placing it roughly parallel to the servo horn and nip up the grub screw using the same Allen key supplied for the wheel grub screws. Using the straight linkage, Quicklink and locknut, connect the regulator arm to the servo horn as shown in diagram 3. The Quicklink should fit in either the 2nd or 3rd hole on the servo horn. Setting and adjustment of the regulator is best done with the locomotive in steam and with the chassis supported on two wooden blocks under the chassis to raise the wheels off the bench. Ensure that the regulator is closed when raising steam.
With full working pressure raised, switch on both transmitter and receiver and move the locomotive into gear with the right hand lever on the transmitter. Open the regulator by slowly moving the left-hand lever upwards and find the position at which the engine starts to run. Move the arm backwards and forwards a few times to establish the position at which it closes and leave it
there. If the regulator does not open or fails to close fully, slacken the grub screw holding the regulator arm in place, remove the arm and turn the spindle manually (careful as its hot!) to find
the point at which it just closes. Move the control lever on the transmitter to the bottom and replace the regulator arm. Proceed as before to find its closing position and leave it there.
Carefully slacken the grub screw and move the control lever to the bottom without moving the spindle. Nip up the grub screw. You can make fine adjustments to the linkage now until the
regulator closes fully with the control lever at the bottom. Because of the ‘0’ ring used in the r/c type regulator, you should aim for the wheels to start moving when you have moved the control
lever on the transmitter about halfway up. This is because the ‘0’ ring will compress slightly into its seat when fully closed. You may need to adjust the position of the arm on the spindle, the
control rod in the push rod connector, or both to achieve this. You should also check that when fully open, the servo horn does not protrude below track level. Trim off any excess servo horn to
ensure that this does not happen. When satisfied that all is adjusted correctly, tighten all screws, switch off the gas burner and r/c equipment and disconnect battery clip. The trimmer at the side of the control arm can be used in the future to compensate for wear and compression of the ‘0’ ring. As time passes, you may find that the regulator does not fully close when the control lever is at the bottom. As this happens, the trimmer can be moved down a little at a time to compensate.
It's not hard to do so don't be put off by the above, just protect your hands while doing it otherwise you WILL get burnt!
Cheers,
Tom
RWLR
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 3 guests