Painting finishes on plastic kits

[Bob]

I’ve seen some excellent and realistic paint finishes on some PDF and boot lane kits and am after some advice on what paints and finishes you all you use.

I’ve used halfords grey acrylic primer as a first step and that’s as far as I’ve got. I’m Looking at automotive spray paints as I don’t want to brush paint. I believe the Halfords range has changed recently, Hycote seems a possible alternative? would be interested to know your recommendations on which brands of acrylic sprays you use.

It’s easy to find the colours I’d like to use but will a car metallic finish be suitable? Matt finishes don’t seem to be a common option? I’m not really a fan of gloss finishes so wondering if a Matt lacquer over the top of a metallic or gloss would have the desired effect? At least then I’d still have the correct colour with the Matt finish I wanted?

Lots of questions so would be really interested to know your painting techniques please!

[philipy]

Hi Bob, welcome to the forum.

Everybody has their own favourite way of painting, although there are some common themes, but only by experimenting and finding what works for you, will you be happy.

Having said that, Halfords rattle can primer is a good place to start. They do two varieties, the standard one and one labelled as "plastic primer" but personally I've never noticed any tangible difference in practice. Hycote primer is also good, so I use whatever I can get fastest/cheapest, when I need some.

After that, to some extent it depends on what you are painting and how complex the model is and and how many colours it needs. i.e a big loco with lots of pipework and nooks and crannies, will be difficult to paint with a spray can unless you can take the bits off, because there will inevitably be areas that get masked. OTOH a simple 4-wheeled single colour wagon should paint quite well with a spray can. Although you will of course still have to pick out ironwork, or whatever, by hand if necessary.

Some people never use spray cans but instead prefer an airbrush. That is a skill in itself, but it has been discussed a number of times on here, just do a search on the forum for "airbrush".

I think that most people would agree with you that a full gloss paint never looks right on a model, but a final coat of a matt or semi-matt spray should take the gloss off - just be sure test it first!! If they are incompatible, then trying to remove a bubbled or blistered finish is almost impossible.

For details painting, there really is no alternative to hand brushing. These days, most folks use acrylic paints rather than enamels and Citadel paints by Games Workshop and Vallejo are two good brands. Cheapo stuff from say, "The Works", doesn't have great lasting power in my experience.

Hope that helps, but others may chip in with different thoughts. As I said, everyone has their favourite methods and there are many members who are much better at painting than I am.

[ge_rik]

Like Philip, I use Halfords rattle cans. Also, I now use their satin lacquer as the final coat to dull down the gloss finish.
I have tried mixing brands of aerosols with disastrous results which is why I just stick with Halfords.

Rik

[Peter Butler]

I agree with all of the above. I also use Hycote paints as they are acrylic based and available in several useful colours (at the right price!)
Halfords acrylic range is compatible, also the matt and satin lacquers work together with either.
The Citadel acrylics are excellent quality and leave no brush strokes. They also work with the lacquers.
Here is an example of how they work together....

100_0684.JPG (285.96 KiB) Viewed 44596 times

A little weathering takes the harsh, flat colouring to a different level.

[Bob]

Thanks everyone so far for the guidance. It seems the lacquer may do the trick and get the finish I’m looking for and the finish of the colour below may not be so essential to the final outcome. I’ve ordered up a few tins and will get to grips on some test pieces!

[GAP]

For small detail parts like iron work I use a permanent marker to pick them out.
I use "Gold Leafing Paint" markers by Krylon for brass work inside the loco cabin they also have a copper and silver ones.
For outside and on my buildings I use UV resistant house paint acrylics, but I live in Australia and we have very a high UV index.