Cheapo diesel sound card

[philipy]

Just to update on this, from my POV.
I've been in discussions with Andy because I had to get him to reprogram it before when I couldn't, and thought he might have some insight on what I've been doing wrong. It has been more and more unexpected things and not accepting inputs. Eventually we went right back to square one to reprogram the 1,1,1,1,1 basic settings, which the Rx appeared to accept. However it wouldn't then move on from there and the motor one way ran as soon as power was applied and the controls had no effect of any sort. Andy diagnosed a major problem with the Rx and I've decided to call it a day and not waste any more of anybody's time. Have now ordered a 603c to replace it.

So having read back through this thread, I'm now a bit uncertain which programming settings actually work for the cheapo Ali Express sound card on the 603c, any offers?

[-steves-]

Just to update on this, from my POV.
I've been in discussions with Andy because I had to get him to reprogram it before when I couldn't, and thought he might have some insight on what I've been doing wrong. It has been more and more unexpected things and not accepting inputs. Eventually we went right back to square one to reprogram the 1,1,1,1,1 basic settings, which the Rx appeared to accept. However it wouldn't then move on from there and the motor one way ran as soon as power was applied and the controls had no effect of any sort. Andy diagnosed a major problem with the Rx and I've decided to call it a day and not waste any more of anybody's time. Have now ordered a 603c to replace it.

So having read back through this thread, I'm now a bit uncertain which programming settings actually work for the cheapo Ali Express sound card on the 603c, any offers?

Yup, a standard 603c will work straight out the box using pin 1 onto the white signal wire of the soundcard. Obviously with all negatives and positives attached

If for some bizarre reason it doesn't then you can reprogramme using 2,1,1,1,1

[philipy]

Yup, a standard 603c will work straight out the box using pin 1 onto the white signal wire of the soundcard. Obviously with all negatives and positives attached

Brill, thanks Steve.
That seemed too simple, which is why I asked!

[ge_rik]

Yup, a standard 603c will work straight out the box using pin 1 onto the white signal wire of the soundcard. Obviously with all negatives and positives attached

If for some bizarre reason it doesn't then you can reprogramme using 2,1,1,1,1

I thought P1 on a standard MR603 gave forward light (and LED2)?

I reprogrammed P3 for servo output following Ch1 for my loco (2,3,1,1,1)

Rik

[Phil.P]

A Micron supplied MR603c does not have a pin configured for a servo output by default. - It will need programing.

A RC Trains supplied MR603c (look for the label, or 'T' hand-written on one of the chips) has a servo output, for external ESC or soundcard, configured on Pin6 in RC Trains configurations 1-3.

Pin6 is located on the end of the MR603c. - Same end as the aerial.

The MR603c is (optionally) available with a socket fitted to these pins, and a suitable connector/lead.

Phil.P

[philipy]

Yup, a standard 603c will work straight out the box using pin 1 onto the white signal wire of the soundcard. Obviously with all negatives and positives attached

If for some bizarre reason it doesn't then you can reprogramme using 2,1,1,1,1

I thought P1 on a standard MR603 gave forward light (and LED2)?

I reprogrammed P3 for servo output following Ch1 for my loco (2,3,1,1,1)

I thought that as well Rik.
I've been reading up on it and P1 is deffo shown as LED2 by default and P2 is shown as Rear light by default. So, working from what Steve said, my plan was to check the Rx working (!), then put an LED on P1 and check what that does, then replace with the sound card and see what that does. Then repeat for P2, on the basis that I do want the front light but the loco doesn't seem to have arear light, so P2 might also work the sound in the same way as P1.

Edited ro say, have just seen Phil's post, which is roughly what I had thought should happen, before Steve posted. When it arrives, I'll do what I've said and see what happens.

[philipy]

Okey doke... well as I said earlier this afternoon on my Gmeinder thread, the Rx 603C is working fine at controlling the loco, including the P1 "LED2" repeater. So I started to check out the Cheapo sound card.

My intention was to connect the two power leads to the 0v & 3.3v at the side of the Rx and then do quick temporary touches of the signal wire to P1 & P2 to see what happened, as per Steve saying P1 worked 'out of the box'.
My 603C must be magic, because it works without any connection to the signal wire at all! Just connect the power and the sound starts as soon as the main switch is on - it makes no difference whether the signal wire is then connected to P1 or not. However, the sound is either on or off, no following the speed control at all.

I did try just connecting P3 to the signal connection but nothing happened, as I expected. So I guess the next thing is to try programming P3 to Rik's 2,3,1,1,1.

[Phil.P]

I would be a little wary of powering these Soundcards from the MR603 onboard regulator.

I draw your attention to the following extract from the MR603 manual:

"3.3V from the on-board regulator which can supply a max of 200mA"

Phil.P

[philipy]

You're absolutely right Phil, thanks.

I got myself thoroughly confused with the talk of servo's and my messing about with the Rx41d + MA002, and assumed it wanted 3.3v so was reluctant to connect it directly to a nominal 7.2v battery. Now having looked again at the Ali listing and digging down further, although the 'spec' is rudimentary at best, I did see a reference to 5v - 15v input, at one point. I'll rejig things once I get a chance.

[ge_rik]

I've powered my soundcard through an adjustable step-down buck converter set to 5v

2S motor MR603 circuit with AliExpress .jpg (159.51 KiB) Viewed 469 times

Rik

EDIT2: Now corrected label for switch and added a 47R resistor between P1 and the LED

[philipy]

Thanks Rik.
Yes I've got some of those V.Regs but if it will work off +/- 7v, I can avoid that complication and extra wiring.

BTW, 2 questions... what's a DPDT Socket ?? ( Sorry, couldn't resist it! )

More seriously, what do you use to produce the lovely schematic diagrams like this one. It obviously doesn't take all that long to do, given the response time from my post to your reply.

[-steves-]

That's pretty much the wiring I used for mine, but without the buck convertor, the sound card I bought can handle 2 x li-ion batteries (8.4v) with no issue so just run them direct from the power input of the RX.

[ge_rik]

That's pretty much the wiring I used for mine, but without the buck convertor, the sound card I bought can handle 2 x li-ion batteries (8.4v) with no issue so just run them direct from the power input of the RX.

That's useful to know. I just assumed it would require 5v

Rik

[ge_rik]

BTW, 2 questions... what's a DPDT Socket ?? ( Sorry, couldn't resist it! )

More seriously, what do you use to produce the lovely schematic diagrams like this one. It obviously doesn't take all that long to do, given the response time from my post to your reply.

Ooops! I copied and pasted the text box but clearly didn't edit out "socket" from the original. Isn't it amazing how easy it is to miss mistakes like that. I don't think I'll be applying for a proof reader's job in the imminent future.

I use the draw package in Libre Office (formerly Open Office). The freebie alternative to MS Office. I've already written up the HGLW loco mod on my blog and created this wiring diagram for that. I'd say it takes 30-45 mins to produce one of these.

Rik

[ge_rik]

PS. It's probably advisable to protect the link from P3 to the soundcard with a 1k resistor, or maybe even a 4.7k resistor if you're powering the soundcard with 7.4v

Rik
PS - Now corrected the label for the switch and added the 1k resistor to the wiring diagram (see above)

[-steves-]

PS. It's probably advisable to protect the link from P3 to the soundcard with a 1k resistor, or maybe even a 4.7k resistor if you're powering the soundcard with 7.4v

Rik
PS - Now corrected the label for the switch and added the 1k resistor to the wiring diagram (see above)

I am no electrician nor technical guru, but won't putting a resistor on the signal wire reduce the range of the signal input thereby limiting the throttle range of the soundcard? Would a diode help to stop any current getting back? Please remember that me and electronics don't get on all that well, so I am really only guessing.

[philipy]

PS. It's probably advisable to protect the link from P3 to the soundcard with a 1k resistor, or maybe even a 4.7k resistor if you're powering the soundcard with 7.4v

Rik
PS - Now corrected the label for the switch and added the 1k resistor to the wiring diagram (see above)

I am no electrician nor technical guru, but won't putting a resistor on the signal wire reduce the range of the signal input thereby limiting the throttle range of the soundcard? Would a diode help to stop any current getting back? Please remember that me and electronics don't get on all that well, so I am really only guessing.

Thanks chaps, it is now working!
Had a 'mare with the programming because the third input was set at "3 flashes" and nowhere in the instructions does it say how to reduce them. Eventually by trial and error I worked out that by inputting all the way up to 12 flashes it then goes back to 1 flash. It never ocurred to me to go that far, I assumed it would stop at about 7 or 8!

Soooo, It is way too loud, actually scared the dog ( really!). I tried putting the resistors in as Rik suggested, but that reduces the noise to a single rythmical "pop" or cuts it completely - which I think is what Steve is suggesting?

I was about to try putting a pot in line and fiddling to see if I could find a loudness vs sound, sweet spot, when I saw Steve's post.
EDited to add: I've just tried a 1k pot and it's barely off the stop when the sound goes from 'proper' to 'pop pop' with nothing in between.

[Phil.P]

Just take a breath, Guys....

These cards are fed with a variable width servo pulse, not a logic '0' or '1', so the 1k or 4k7 resistor is not required.

Adding resistors here will not reduce the sound-level.

To add a volume control, you could add a 100 ohm pot across the speaker output, and the speaker connected between the wiper (centre-connection) and the 'ground' end of the pot.

Phil.P

[philipy]

To add a volume control, you could add a 100 ohm pot across the speaker output, and the speaker connected between the wiper (centre-connection) and the 'ground' end of the pot.

Thanks Phil. Breathe taken...Pot inserted.. works like a dream! The dog even came in whilst it was on and didn't run away this time!

You're a star.

[philipy]

Me again.
Yes, it works, but not sure how long for! The pot I've used is getting very hot after only a few minutes and nearly burns my fingers as I adjust it! It comes from one of those chinese selection boxes and there is no listed power rating, similarly there is no info on the speaker itself, but clearly the circuit is using a lot higher wattage than the pot likes.

So, I'm currently hunting for a pot with at least 0.5W rating and I reckon to be on the safe side 1W would be better.

Just thought I'd mention it at this stage.