bambuko loco works 0-6-2 (Fowler)
Re: bambuko loco works 0-6-2 (Fowler)
Lovely work Dazza. I think I need a lot more workshop practice to boost skills and confidence.
Don
Don
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Re: bambuko loco works 0-6-2 (Fowler)
I reckon you are going along pretty nicely. I have never done this stuff before, I often do some test runs on scrap and then get stuck in.
Cheers from Dazza, The Hydrostatic Lubricator
The chances of finding out what’s really going on in the universe are so remote, the only thing to do is hang the sense of it and keep yourself occupied. Douglas Adams
The chances of finding out what’s really going on in the universe are so remote, the only thing to do is hang the sense of it and keep yourself occupied. Douglas Adams
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Re: bambuko loco works 0-6-2 (Fowler)
It is happening at glacial pace but there is some progress to report, so here it is:
Wheel blanks held in soft jaws of the chuck.
Six wheels, plus one for spare (and for f*** ups ), axle hole reamed and outside register turned at the same setting (to ensure they are concentric).
Seventh wheel is on the spigot used to finish turn tyre thread
Spigot in the chuck ready for wheels.
There is enough clearance between axle hole in the wheel and retaining bolt to allow the wheel to be tapped until precisely centred on the spigot.
Finishing the wheel thread (you can also see poor man's DRO substitute using DTI )
Finished wheels.
Wheels will be loctited on the axle, rather than held by a grub screw (as suggested in Brian Wilson's book).
Unlike the commercial offerings they will never be re-gauged so there is no point in grub screw.
Wheel blanks held in soft jaws of the chuck.
Six wheels, plus one for spare (and for f*** ups ), axle hole reamed and outside register turned at the same setting (to ensure they are concentric).
Seventh wheel is on the spigot used to finish turn tyre thread
Spigot in the chuck ready for wheels.
There is enough clearance between axle hole in the wheel and retaining bolt to allow the wheel to be tapped until precisely centred on the spigot.
Finishing the wheel thread (you can also see poor man's DRO substitute using DTI )
Finished wheels.
Wheels will be loctited on the axle, rather than held by a grub screw (as suggested in Brian Wilson's book).
Unlike the commercial offerings they will never be re-gauged so there is no point in grub screw.
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Re: bambuko loco works 0-6-2 (Fowler)
Bit of a milestone today
and on it's own "legs" for the first time
Delighted with how free rolling and smooth it is on ball bearings.
It was definitely a lot more effort than what it would be if I used conventional bronze axleboxes,
and I hope the bearings I used are up the job, but so far it was really worth it (at least for me).
Looking at the wheels, I am inclined to blacken them rather than leave them shiny?
Black would have (at least afaiac) more "prototypical" appearance?
What do you think guys? (and girls, if there are any here?)
and on it's own "legs" for the first time
Delighted with how free rolling and smooth it is on ball bearings.
It was definitely a lot more effort than what it would be if I used conventional bronze axleboxes,
and I hope the bearings I used are up the job, but so far it was really worth it (at least for me).
Looking at the wheels, I am inclined to blacken them rather than leave them shiny?
Black would have (at least afaiac) more "prototypical" appearance?
What do you think guys? (and girls, if there are any here?)
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Re: bambuko loco works 0-6-2 (Fowler)
That looks sweet. Nice work. I like the surface plate as well.
Cheers from Dazza, The Hydrostatic Lubricator
The chances of finding out what’s really going on in the universe are so remote, the only thing to do is hang the sense of it and keep yourself occupied. Douglas Adams
The chances of finding out what’s really going on in the universe are so remote, the only thing to do is hang the sense of it and keep yourself occupied. Douglas Adams
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Re: bambuko loco works 0-6-2 (Fowler)
Thank you
I only just test assembled it to see if it all fits OK, before loctiting the wheels on the axles,
and before I do that, I also need to blacken the wheels (if I decide to do so).
I will do the test on my spare/seventh wheel.
One of the few survivors of decline of British engineering/manufacturing industry over the last 40 years that ended up in my workshop
All three of my past employers ended up being closed down and space thus "liberated" ended up being converted into supermarket
On each occasion I have managed to acquire some equipment
Cranks next...
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Re: bambuko loco works 0-6-2 (Fowler)
I tried my spare wheel:
and it definitely looks better/real blackened (rarther than bright steel).
I am not happy with the quality though...
it is blotchy and rubs off easier than it should.
Need to experiment more with temperature, degreasing and preparation before the process I guess
ps possibly the finish is not as good as I hoped for, because I am using clean oil, rather than old used one?
and it definitely looks better/real blackened (rarther than bright steel).
I am not happy with the quality though...
it is blotchy and rubs off easier than it should.
Need to experiment more with temperature, degreasing and preparation before the process I guess
ps possibly the finish is not as good as I hoped for, because I am using clean oil, rather than old used one?
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Re: bambuko loco works 0-6-2 (Fowler)
Maybe the type of oil. Perhaps some good thick steam oil, close to boiling and then dunk the stinking hot wheel .
Cheers from Dazza, The Hydrostatic Lubricator
The chances of finding out what’s really going on in the universe are so remote, the only thing to do is hang the sense of it and keep yourself occupied. Douglas Adams
The chances of finding out what’s really going on in the universe are so remote, the only thing to do is hang the sense of it and keep yourself occupied. Douglas Adams
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Re: bambuko loco works 0-6-2 (Fowler)
Last time I've done something like this was about 35 years ago so there was some re-learning curve
but, it is all sorted out - I was overheating and burning things.
Much more delicate and ontrolled application of heat (you don't need it glowing red ) resulted in finish I wanted.
No, you don't need old oil! Some people recommend boiled linseed oil - might try it some day...
but, it is all sorted out - I was overheating and burning things.
Much more delicate and ontrolled application of heat (you don't need it glowing red ) resulted in finish I wanted.
No, you don't need old oil! Some people recommend boiled linseed oil - might try it some day...
Re: bambuko loco works 0-6-2 (Fowler)
Call me old-fashioned if you like, but why not use primer and paint?
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Re: bambuko loco works 0-6-2 (Fowler)
Because you cannot paint flange and thread of the wheel and (as far as I am concerned at least) bright shiny mild steel just doesn't look right
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Re: bambuko loco works 0-6-2 (Fowler)
I am a fan of chemical blackening and have moved on to this product which is a true four stage room temperature process:
http://www.black-it.co.uk
http://www.black-it.co.uk
Re: bambuko loco works 0-6-2 (Fowler)
Oh, I absolutely agree, but there are hundreds of model loco owners out there who think bright shiny steel wheels (and cranks) look just right, apparently.
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Re: bambuko loco works 0-6-2 (Fowler)
Thank you @ tom_tom_go for sharing - interesting
Main advantage of the hot oil method for me is that it is using things I already have in my workshop, without having to buy additional stuff, for what is a one off, relatively rare operation.
Main advantage of the hot oil method for me is that it is using things I already have in my workshop, without having to buy additional stuff, for what is a one off, relatively rare operation.
Re: bambuko loco works 0-6-2 (Fowler)
There are girls on the forum and they are well versed in the ways of engineering. It's something of a mystery to boys, that girls can make things out of steel.... Not having ago really....
On the shiny wheels. Don't get me wrong, I haven't much knowledge on how railways ran or do run, has most members know... But don't the bottom of the wheels stay somewhat shiny, as the rails do when they are constantly running against each other...
On the shiny wheels. Don't get me wrong, I haven't much knowledge on how railways ran or do run, has most members know... But don't the bottom of the wheels stay somewhat shiny, as the rails do when they are constantly running against each other...
ROD
Life is so easy when I run my trains.
https://gardenrails.org/forum/viewtopic ... 41&t=11364
https://www.youtube.com/@fairywoodlightrailway
Life is so easy when I run my trains.
https://gardenrails.org/forum/viewtopic ... 41&t=11364
https://www.youtube.com/@fairywoodlightrailway
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Re: bambuko loco works 0-6-2 (Fowler)
No reason why not indeed although in these PC times they may object to being referred to as "girls"
They do and I hope that with use my wheels will become shiny where they should as well... (and if not I will help with the process )
Anyways... it's a personal foible and there is no right or wrong way, just the way you do it on your railway.
Re: bambuko loco works 0-6-2 (Fowler)
A bit late to this thread, but one of the things that I have always done when oil blacking is to return the part after dunking in oil back to the flame and allow the oil to burn on the part. Keep on doing this until the depth of black you want is achieved. For obvious reasons you shouldn't do this in a confined space, I always do it outdoors but with the current weather patterns that may be a bit difficult. I have in the past used old engine oil as I believed that the impurities/dirt in the oil would aid the blackening process, but as I no longer carry out my own car servicing I no longer have access to old sump oil so use whatever I have to hand and I haven't really noticed any difference.
Phil
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Re: bambuko loco works 0-6-2 (Fowler)
@ pandsrowe
Yes, I have applied it twice as well to get the right depth of black
Yes, I have applied it twice as well to get the right depth of black
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