Now....what should i do with this?

[markoteal]

Didn't get to spend too long on this project over the weekend

Managed to reprime to bring the riveting into grey then I started on applying theain colour - used Ford Burgundy rattle spray as CHLR's equivalent to Victorian Maroon - looked alright when i did it by eye (slightly lighter than my RH Millie ) but had a shock when I photo graphed it - just goes to show the difference between artificial and natural light - the first two photos are under workbench lighting whilst the third is in natural day light - just goes to show the difference.

In the last one you can start to see my (well Ernie, the works painter, who you can see in the last pic busy on the panel) black painting work on the smokebox and rear panel - next step is sorting painting etc. the inside of the cab before assembly and brassing the dome and maybe the bands on the boiler (gulps)

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[ge_rik]

What a fine looking model this is becoming.

.If you were thinking of rechargeable batteries, you could always install a couple of AA sized (14500) lI-ions wired in parallel to give you twice the running time on 3.7v. You'd need a battery protection board to prevent them from becoming overly discharged unless you were planning to install r/c in which case something like a Deltang rx would provide low voltage cut-off protection.

Rik

[markoteal]

Cheers Rik - I'm sure when I get to the power refurb part of the project, I'll be back in touch to check out my simple plans make sense - its my weakest area, wiring/batteries so will be happy of some suitable prods!

Ta

Mark

[ge_rik]

Cheers Rik - I'm sure when I get to the power refurb part of the project, I'll be back in touch to check out my simple plans make sense - its my weakest area, wiring/batteries so will be happy of some suitable prods!
Ta
Mark

More than happy to prod if required.
Rik

[markoteal]

Quick update and then a question or two for those with 'sparky' interest on battery locos (Jim/Rik I'm looking in your direction)

Firstly the body of the loco is coming together - all main parts have been painted externally and I've added some lamp brackets....... but I still fancy doing one more covering of Burgundy before I do brassing and more black - and a few bits of filling need doing - but its coming on - decided this will be loco no.5 and called Meteor (following on from Spitfire, our Millie and to compliment the mid build Hunslet that will be no. 6 called Wellington - after much research of Quarry Hunslets) - this allows me to continue with the theme of WW2 Allied Planes - here are a couple of pics - like before, the colour under artificial light is quite pink, in reality its nearer a classic maroon

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Now onto the chassis - I have a query to the sparky/big big train modders out there (Rik/Jim, you are on!)

Here are some pics of the chassis

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On tests I have run on 2 C batteries - ideally I'd like to move to AA batteries (initially externally charged but eventually with a charging socket/circuit built in

What are the suggestions to move from the current set up to an AA approach - which bits of brass do I need to get rid of, how do I deal with the current on/off and direction arrangements - I know I need a DPDT switch to do that with the lovely cross over wiring and joyous soldering - but how do I do the surgery to get to the motor and the right bits to run wires from

Any help/advice gratefully received!

[tom_tom_go]

Mark, if you want to play around with it bring it my way.

One thing I can do is electrics after much trial and error.

[Peter Butler]

Mark, I love what you are doing to this loco, what a transformation..... Firstly I agree you are asking advice from the two who are best qualified to show you the way, Rik and Jim. Just to add my twopennorth, I will say this only to reassure you that it is not as daunting as you imagine, if I can do it so can you!
Firstly decide on your required voltage.... I try to use 12v (10 x 1.2v recharegeable) if possible, and it seems you have the space. There gives enough power to run my locos for hours. I would suggest you remove all of the present connectors and use a battery pack with something to keep it in place. You shouldn't need to access the motor, just the leads, which you can connect to a switch and power pack. Also a recharge plug can be built in at this stage.
Hre are a couple of pictures to show how I managed to fit everything into my tram loco which started out as a 12v track powered chassis.....

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On another chassis I fitted the switch and recharge points to the underside of the loco....

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With the connections tucked neatly away inside....

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These are all the connections you need to make it work including a R/C receiver unit (not shown).
For full wiring instruction consult one of the 'Masters'

[Big Jim]

With an offer like that I can't really add much else.

However for what it is worth. The plate that the switches are attached too should lift off once you undo the two screws that hold the switch arms. Find the two motor wires, they should be red and blue and snip off at the switch end. The contacts wires are probably going to be green. Remove these as well.

The contacts can be removed by drilling out the rivets. So this carefully as the plastic can get quite brittle.

In my experience it is better to lengthen the motor wires if nessercery than to try and replace from the motor end as the motor often has a funny little nylon cable clamp attached that is difficult to remove without damage and soldering with it in situ will melt it.

Decide how may batteries you want. If you are going to use rechargeable and fit radio gear then 4 would be best. Just switched, then 2 will be fine.

If Tom is offering help, pack it all up, pick up a couple of bottles of light ale and head over there.

[markoteal]

Thanks guys - great examples and advice there Peter and some specifics about that chassis from you Jim and of course thanks Tom, I see you as my emergency service on this one - once I try and get stuck, I'll be following Jim's advice and dive into the car and head over - I'll probably start next weekend as have various family taxi duties this weekend

[tom_tom_go]

No problem mate, good luck.

[ge_rik]

Sorry, only just caught up with this thread.

I concur with what has already been said. Personally, like Peter, I would go for rechargeables preferably with in-situ charging. However, if you're not at ease with that then the alternative would be to get a battery box for the required number of cells and wire that in. Then you can remove the batteries for charging and/or use non rechargeables.

Rik

[markoteal]

Cheers Rik - yes I think I'm going for the rechargeable ones inside permanently - I think that a number of suppliers do a wiring loom with most of the soldering done - I just connect up the motor/battery wires to it along the lines Peter and Jim have outlined. At this stage I'm not opting for RC on this one as it'll be used less than the others that do have RC

I did something similar with the two battery ones I built a while ago - my challenge with this one was dismantling the existing 1960's set up for C batteries - armed with all your responses, I'm confident enough to give it a go - and I have my safety net of Tom 40 mins away!

I'll see if I can do my shopping this weekend so I can have a go next weekend

Mark

[tom_tom_go]

I just want you to come and play trains really

[markoteal]

You know you can come and play trains when you want!

[ge_rik]

Cheers Rik - yes I think I'm going for the rechargeable ones inside permanently - I think that a number of suppliers do a wiring loom with most of the soldering done - I just connect up the motor/battery wires to it along the lines Peter and Jim have outlined. At this stage I'm not opting for RC on this one as it'll be used less than the others that do have RC
Mark

Sounds like a good plan. You can always add r/c at a later date. She is a lovely looking loco, though you might find the motor and mech is a bit underpowered.

Rik

[markoteal]

Sounds like a good plan. You can always add r/c at a later date. She is a lovely looking loco, though you might find the motor and mech is a bit underpowered.

Yes - I think it will used on light duties - shunting kindling trains at the wood yard and the occasional enthusiasts goods van rides

[markoteal]

Hi - a quick update

I took the plunge and stripped all the electrics out - didn't take long when I got stuck in

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I've decided for now for a simple wiring job whilst I get the thing balanced and decide on its usual rosters - so one switch and a battery box - I have a loom on standby when I move to re-charge-ables. To be honest, it would probably run at a scale speed with just one AAA - more work required!

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Now with a driver added

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And finally out on test - I'm not showing close up pics yet as I have some detailing to do as well as some weathering - the loco runs ok but rocks and rolls along the track - I need to get busy with some targeting weighting under the chassis and the body

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Watch this space

[tom_tom_go]

It's a good looking loco and fits in well with your railway.

[LNR]

The driver looks very intent, listening for any strange sounds from his new loco.
Grant.

[Big Jim]

That looks spot on Mark.
It is nice to see a Big Big conversion using the steam outline engine rather than the Ruston. I must dig out my box of Big Big Scrap and see what I can do.