Peter in Va
Leaving the most awkward part to the end is not always a good idea, but at least I am more experienced at working with the material, so I can see through any problems without delay.
Peter in Va
Also I was able to sort out the supports for the bridge.
Just levelling bolts through some hacked about bits of left over plastic fixed to the underside of the bridge deck – you can’t see the captive nut.
The original drop-in bridge was quite heavy, and took up quite a bit of space in the little (plastic) shed. This has been stripped back to just the plywood deck with the (ballasted) tracks (including a point) on. I have in mind to fix a few bits to tidy this basic deck (and strengthen if thought necessary). Otherwise I will manufacture some drop-in (plastic) stoneware arches and parapets for it.
A bit of tidying up to do, then its track re-laying.
Apart from loads of bits of off-cuts, this is all that was left.
There was no 400mm wide board, just under a metre of 450mm wide board, just under 2 metres of 30cm deep fascia, and just over 2 metres of 10cm deep facia. As we started with 15 metres of 30cm deep and 30 metres of 10cm deep, I think this was quite close. We didn’t run out of the 1000 plasterboard screws, but there is about 50 left.
You could say that we ordered just enough, but it was close. We have still got some part lengths of material that we had obtained before when we were experimenting, but we didn’t have to resort to cobbling together bits to finish the job.
Using brackets or cleats (short lengths of the 10cm deep fascia) to connect the various sections worked well, but you had to consider the order of construction to be sure that you can avoid congestion around some joints, and of course you have got to be able to get a screwdriver in to be able to do up the screws.
This was fine on the square joints but the non-square ones needed specially fabricated cleats. Initially this was no problem apart from having to wait for the glue/solvent to go off before being able to use them. But we also found that even having carefully constructed the bracket to the measured angle, when we came to fix the joint, the angle was different. So, while the screws would pull the plastic bits together to fit the bracket, this would distort the adjacent piece, meaning trying to fix the adjacent non-square bracket was even further out of shape. Some of the non-square brackets had to be remade, and this could delay the flow of work. Rejected / not used non-square brackets/cleats.
The remaining bit of 240mm wide decking was used to complete the decking behind the engine shed. This decking had been in timber, which was removed to be able to fix the back edge member of the new decking. It needed some packing to prevent twisting, but why would I want to go back to timber. Now I can re-fixed the last section of the fence building retaining wall and the end of the Carbide factory.
Now we have been able to relay the first section of track.
The packing under the track is left over bits of the plastic boards – I had allowed for this. With plastic, there’s no chance of nailing the track down, it has to be brass screws in pilot holes. At least this means that it can be unscrewed for inserting levelling packing (if required), or even moving it a bit.
Two things to follow. First is to finish the track-work, ballast, paint all the outsides black (or very dark brown), make and fit bridge/bridges cladding and abutments and fill all spaces in between with scenery. Second is to wait a few years to see how it all lasts.
I will save the reflection for later, may be a couple of weeks when the track is all connected up...
The left over lengths you have could they not be used for some building of some sort, a shelter maybe.
I may very well use this material and methods for part of my line, which will have to be built on different types of ground.
I think a trip to my local DIY store to see what's available is on the cards.
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