What are accucraft really like

[DLRdan]

I want to know all the good and bad bits about them, how they run if they're reliable, how long they run for how many problems youve had and what youve heard

[laalratty]

right, well where to start?
Well run time tends to be about 15-20 mins. I found that my Caradoc is better with radio control but I know of many people who cope fine with them as manual, a lot with accucraft depends about which factory it came out of, some produce better runners than others but there is no way of telling. The running to an extent also depends on how well timed the engine is when new, again I know of someone's which is so badly timed it barely chuffs. A well timed one will run very well and have a power advantage over an less well timed one as well as probebly being more powerfull then a Roundhouse engine.
With regards to reliability, it is all down to the build quality, and again this depends on the factory I think. There have been many problems with new ones but then again there have been locos that run very well straight away (there was supposed to have been a vast improvement in this area, although a problem with a friends new Edrig unfortunatly points otherwise). As for service, I have heared both good and bad, certainly there will replace a completely un runable engine and replace certain parts free.
Reliability probs to look out for
loose crank pins
timeing going off
holes in superheater pipe
bent frames
holes not drilled for banjos
However, there is no doubting that despite these problems, for the price they are, they are great value, a good running one straight out of the box is fantastic value
hope this helps, I daresay others will comment

[SillyBilly]

Problems I've had with mine in a year (tomorrow):
Nuts on piston valve spindles winding loose, timing totally out
Grub screws in cranks winding loose, very sloppy
Banjo bolt broke when I was screwing it in (my fault)

How they were dealt with:
Friend reset the timing, now running smooth as anything
Accucraft UK supplied allen key free of charge
Accucraft contacted, Ian Pearse offered to machine one, but Andy had one spare so I took up his offer

As almost everyon knows, I'll drag about my Accucraft loco to the limity, probably because it's the only one I have, but as you saw today, reseting the timing and just using a stub of pipe rather than a chuff pipe makes them incredibly controllable. There are scribed marks on the piston valves showing the correct position of the valves, when the cranks are at 6 o'clock these need to be just visible infront of the valve chests, I'm sure there is a perfect setting around these marks, but you'll probably get a good result, so setting the timming is just a matter of moving the valves on the spindles, if you have the correct instructions, which my friend didn't have so it was just a case of working it from what he had!

Mine barley chuffs without the chuff pipe unless it has a heavy load, but then really engines are like this! The trick of filing your loco, raising steam, then topping up the gas tank is a very good one, you get a much longer run, the boiler has more than enough water capacity, and if you don't feel safe, just get a top up valve!

[andysleigh]

My Edrig has been a very good loco,   i think i got one from a very good batch. Only problem i have had with it is the gas filler on the tank started leaking, so asked accucraft, and they sent me a new one free of charge.

Accucrafts are built like bombs, very robust and have thick metal, unlike roundhouse that has quite thin metal. The general finish of the body work is a bit better than Roundhouse, as there arent any rivets or gaps etc on it.
They come with little details included, like handrails and whistle.


Some bad points are that Accucraft dont do spares, like cylinders, or anything really. Although they did bring out a spare chassis, it didnt stay around for very long, twypical accucraft bringing somthing good out for a short time.
They dont run as slow and smooth as Roundhouses, but are still good.

I guess its luck as to what batch you get, some good , like mine,  or some not so good, like wills.

[SillyBilly]

Take the chuff pipe out, set the timing Andy, and it'll run slowly! You can get spare valve chests and quite a few other bits off the Accucraft USA website. Out of interest Andy, have you asked Acucraft UK if they'd sell you spare cylinders?

[andysleigh]

Take the chuff pipe out, set the timing Andy, and it'll run slowly! You can get spare valve chests and quite a few other bits off the Accucraft USA website. Out of interest Andy, have you asked Acucraft UK if they'd sell you spare cylinders?

I can get mine to run quite slowly, just not roundhouse slow.

I have aske,d but never got a reply. But a guy from gmes asked and he was told he couldnt get any. So now his superior is totally buggered, Mainly because of how he treated it, ( if you think mine was worn out (which its not, its just worn in) then you should see the superior)

But how do i set the timing, you said you were going to show me how you friend did it, but you never did.

[SillyBilly]

Ah ok, you did tell the people on the 16mm group it was knackered, but based on that chap's superior worn in I suppose is ok, if verging off it slightly.

If you read my first post in this topic there are the details of how to time it, came out of the most recent Garden Rail, if he'd had those instructions it would have saved him some time!!

[SLRmidge]

First of all have a very Merry Christmas & I hope Santa brought you what you wanted....a ng steam loco perhaps! Anyway, the first loco I bought (3 years ago) was an edrig from loco box and after clearing the gas nozzle, which was blocked from the start, its run like a dream ever since. I also have a r/c Wrekin (from pps) which apart from an initial valve setting problem has been fine.

[Rob]

my edrig runs great, and ran perfect straight out of the box.

does putting in a normal exhaust pipe make any difference? one without the crimped end like the chuf pipe?

they are a good loco to have and just bolt together so easily modified.

[SillyBilly]

Like I said previously, if you chop the top 50mm off the top of the supplied chuff pipe there's no back pressure, and it has made mine much more controlable.

[pauly]

so what can I expect from my caradoc when I first steam her on blocks tomorrow?  :confused2:

[SillyBilly]

Good things, put it straight on the track!

[pauly]

I prefer to run them a couple of times on blocks to get a feel for the controls
wouldn't want to wreck on my hilly track

another thing is the controls they are very stiff will they loosen up with use?

[Rob]

yeh i think they should pauly.

i can just tap the gas regulator valve to control the gas flow, rather than turning the nob, just tap it or pull it up a little.

ill cut the top off the exhasust then will and see what it is like. does it sound better? i hate the sound that the chuf pipe makes.

[andysleigh]

yeh i think they should pauly.

i can just tap the gas regulator valve to control the gas flow, rather than turning the nob, just tap it or pull it up a little.

ill cut the top off the exhasust then will and see what it is like. does it sound better? i hate the sound that the chuf pipe makes.

chuff pipes- my kinda thing.

I cut the the accucraft one just below the bottom of the chimney, and it gives a nice sound, like a coal fired one. I have a a video of it sounding louder, but cba to upload it
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=U7h_Hi2dt ... annel_page

 but leaves a load of crap all over your loco, but on the accucraft paintwork, it should come off easy.


I also made one of out tube, that jsut slots over the exaust stub, and when the timing is correct, it sounds very good.
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=JG7pRazIifo

[DLRdan]

who gets the bugle point then

[SillyBilly]

with the straight pipe, I got little to no chuff, and when I first start off I put a rag/piece of kitchen roll in the chimney to stop the condensate going all over the engine.

[andysleigh]

, and when I first start off I put a rag/piece of kitchen roll in the chimney to stop the condensate going all over the engine.

Same, but it still spits out stuff when running, but with my matt finish, it doesnt come off like it would on the accucraft gloss finish.

[Rob]

yeh found the same problem, chucks put condense and steam oil over my loco, but wipes off easily.

i cut the top off the chuf pipe, but just above the bottom of the chimney so will cut it a little more. i also put kitchen paper over the chimney to try and stop the crap going over it when first moving off. may fit drain cocks if i get some more cash.

also re-set the valve timing as he would move forwards when in neutral, go faster when in forward and just about creep backwards when set in reverse.

so i re-set the valve timing and the reversing timing and ran like a dream. i did the 6 oclock crank and the notch just showing on the valve, and had the notch just showing on the reversing valve when in reverse. worked perfect.

[grumpfuttock]

Just to go back to the original topic, although I am enjoying reading about these experiments with chuff pipes and straight pipes.

Accucraft have a good guarantee, and will replace any defective parts on a new loco, or replace the loco if that is necessary if it is a fault from manufacturing. I have also found their service to be very good.
Spares are available for Accucraft loco's either by contacting an Accucraft dealer who should then be able to get them from Accucraft UK. It is also possible to get spares from MV Shug in Germany. I have a friend in Australia who has had problems getting spares for one of his Accucraft locos in Australia, and so he contacted MV Shug and got the parts within a very short period of time.

A friend here in DK has a Superior, which after a few years of hard work had worn running gear and axle bearings, and we were able to get replacement parts straight away from Accucraft UK. A year later he also experienced a gas leak from a union between the burner and gas tank, tightening the union did not help. I contacted Accucraft UK for him and explained the situation, and also added that he would like to buy some extra unions as he wanted to try re-routing the gas tube and had a length of 3 mm tube. 2 days later a replacement pipe with fitted unions arrived, plus the extra unions he asked for and amazingly at no charge, not even a postage charge!

As with Roundhouse many of the parts used on Accucraft UK locos, are standard, so replacements are still available even if a loco is discontinued.

Andy mentioned that the Edrig chassis has been scratched (a shame IMHO). However the chassis with boiler (Edrig Power unit) is not discontinued, and is a good base for anyone wanting to build his own style of cab and side tanks etc, but who hasn't the machining facilities for making his/her own cylinders, wheels, frames etc. It is cheaper than buying an Edrig, for conversion to a 7/8" scale loco using the kits now available for the Edrig.

As has already been mentioned, it is a very good idea to check all bolts for tightness on a new loco. Be careful, do not over tighten, most of the bolts are very small in diameter and made of brass, and a tad too much torque will strip the thread or break the bolt, I know, I've done it (replacements are available) The valve & reverser valve adjustment nuts need to be checked for tightness too, as I have experienced these coming loose on my Accucraft "Ida". Also as mentioned, check that the cranks are tight on the axle.

I will also say that the very detailed Accucraft loco's, for example Lyn and the WD Baldwin, do need much more careful handling as the detailing being scale size does tend to be somewhat fragile. Also it makes it more difficult and complicated to dismantle the loco to fit radio control.