Timing a Brick

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Big Jim

Timing a Brick

Post by Big Jim » Fri Feb 26, 2016 9:19 pm

While the subject of setting the timing on slip eccentric engines is fresh in every ones mind I was wondering if anyone has a hints or tips on setting the timing on my Archangel Brick, with its single internal cylinder?

It used to run great but after storage for many years it seems to have no power at all. It has been looked at by someone else who couldn't seem to find anything wrong with it but suspected the timing.

It would be nice to have to old girl back in running condition.

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Andrew
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Post by Andrew » Fri Feb 26, 2016 10:12 pm

Whatever you do, don't paint the rods red - it seems to cause no end of trouble...

I owned a Brick, briefly, about 20 years ago, never could get it to run...

Good luck with it!

Andrew

Big Jim

Post by Big Jim » Sun Feb 28, 2016 6:58 pm

I may have found the cause of the Bricks failure to proceed.

In between other jobs up the shed. I removed the boiler & smoke box and fitted up a pipe from the compressor. After oiling the motion and glands with nice thin 3 in 1 the loco would start and then come to a stop at both ends of the stroke. This soon became a stop just at BDC, with a hesitation at TDC. The valve seems to be opening enough in both directions.

However I looked at the stop collar on the eccentric and this seemed a little loose.

One little tweak with a nut driver later and the head of the nut and two turns of thread were sitting on the bench and I was turning the air blue.

I resisted the urge to reach for a Luton screwdriver (Luton Screwdriver = Hammer) and chant the official engineers curse of "Have some of that you B@@@ard!"

Not being overly familiar with single cylinder slip eccentric motion I was wondering if this loose collar could cause the hesitation and bind up? The con rods have been removed so I know there is no bind coming from them. The rest of the motion is now well lubed and apparently free.

I understand that single cylinder engines will be quite jerky on start off compared to a twin.

Thankfully I was able to drill down the middle of the old set screw and tap it out to m2, this will allow a new grub screw to be fitted. I didn't want to attempt to much butchery to get the old screw out as there is not a lot of spare metal to allow for opening and tapping oversize.

Any ideas or suggestions appreciated.

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