Swift Sixteen

TheChestnutLine · Post by **TheChestnutLine** » Sat Dec 12, 2015 12:23 pm

Hi guys,

For christmas I've asked for a D class wagon by swift sixteen. I've already looked at the instructions and it says I'll need a rivet embossing press to punch the imitations in the brass. The tool they suggest to use is £62 which is quite a lot. I was wondering if anyone else had another method or tool they have used on their brass work?

Kind regards,
James

sstjc · Post by **sstjc** » Sat Dec 12, 2015 2:18 pm

Just wondering if you can use an automatic centrepunch with the spring wound back. £62 quid seems to make the kit very expensive to me.
Barry

Annie · Post by **Annie** » Sat Dec 12, 2015 4:35 pm

An automatic centre punch is what I to use too. Adjust it and try it on pieces of scrap until you get the impression you want.

andymctractor · Post by **andymctractor** » Sat Dec 12, 2015 8:59 pm

sstjc:114738 wrote:Just wondering if you can use an automatic centrepunch with the spring wound back. £62 quid seems to make the kit very expensive to me.
Barry

Just be careful. I used one on an Andel models kit and it split the casting. The resin SwiftSixteen uses is probably different but I think the problem was too much spring strength even when wound out, if that is the correct terminology.

Keith S · Post by **Keith S** » Sat Dec 12, 2015 9:41 pm

Can you use a dulled drill bit or something in a (non running) pillar drill? I was thinking of doing this.

I have a Swift Sixteen roof hatch kit for a steam locomotive and I've been afraid to start putting it together because of these rivets. I don't want to stuff it up by ruining the rivets. Also don't feel like buying one of those rivet embossing press thingies.

Peter Butler · Post by **Peter Butler** » Sat Dec 12, 2015 9:55 pm

I have a basic drop-weight system which is a steel rod with a pointed end and a weight which circles the rod. At the top it is threaded with locking nuts to maintain consistent drop height. Try it out first on a sample piece of the material to be used and set the height accordingly. Simple but effective (and cheap!!!)

TheChestnutLine · Post by **TheChestnutLine** » Sun Dec 13, 2015 1:57 am

I think if I didn't get the rivet punch, Keith, I'd probably end up in a similar situation to you and put off starting the kit, which is a situation I don't want to be in! £60 is just far too much for me. I intend on buying a few more kits in the future but I don't kit build very frequently so it just seems a lot of money to invest into a machine that will be hardly used. I might drop Rob an email unless he sees this post?

GTB · Post by **GTB** » Sun Dec 13, 2015 2:29 pm

Keith S:114750 wrote:Can you use a dulled drill bit or something in a (non running) pillar drill? I was thinking of doing this.

If you have a drill press you are 9/10ths of the way there. All you need is a suitable punch and die for the size of rivet you want.

I posted this back of the envelope sketch in another thread a while ago. It's based on one a friend uses in his drill press and it works well. I got carried away and built a scaled up version of the NWSL Riveter to use in my mill/drill, but it doesn't work any better than the one in the sketch.........

If you know someone with a lathe, the punch and die are a simple turning job in mild steel. It would be possible to turn and drill the parts in the drill press with a file if you are careful.

If all else fails, NWSL in the US have their Riveter back in production if their website is to be believed and they sell alternative punch and die sets for $6.00 US. The 0.050" inch set is about the right size for SM32/45 scale.

The MetalSmith rivet press shown in the Swift sixteen instructions also has spare punch sets available which could be used in a bench drill, but they are a bit more pricey than the NWSL parts.

Regards,
Graeme

Keith S · Post by **Keith S** » Mon Dec 14, 2015 6:28 am

Sigh. I would pay Rob a little extra to do this work for me and send the kits out with rivets already pressed.

Thanks Graham, I will start looking around for some bits of steel to make the parts you described. I guess when I eventually get around to scratch-building a locomotive (an ambition of mine) I will have the tools ready so it can have lots of rivet detail.

River Lin · Post by **River Lin** » Mon Dec 14, 2015 9:46 am

Hi Keith.
That's the big thing with scratch building. I am a scratch builder of NWNG coaches and having all my little homemade tools and jigs stored away and available to use again saves time and gives satisfaction. So my advice is to make that jig, use it and then put it on a shelf for next time. It will give you a good feeling next time you need one to be able to just pick it up and use it..
David

TonyW · Post by **TonyW** » Mon Dec 14, 2015 10:11 am

Just a suggestion, but you could always just drill the rivet holes and solder in real rivets...

Lonsdaler · Post by **Lonsdaler** » Mon Dec 14, 2015 5:36 pm

Gives precise control for consistent results:
http://www.eileensemporium.com/index.ph ... t&Itemid=9

Peter Butler · Post by **Peter Butler** » Mon Dec 14, 2015 5:44 pm

BaBBLR:114809 wrote:Gives precise control for consistent results:
http://www.eileensemporium.com/index.ph ... t&Itemid=9

Pictures are so much better than words... thanks to BaBBLR we can now see the item I was trying to describe earlier in the thread.

AFGadd · Post by **AFGadd** » Mon Dec 14, 2015 11:42 pm

I have had good results by using my Unimat as a pillar-drill, and converting it into a punch.

But, you will need a pillar-drill...

GTB · Post by **GTB** » Tue Dec 15, 2015 2:54 pm

sm32:114814 wrote: Embossed rivets just do not look right to me.

There's 300+ rivets on the Fowler bodywork, some are punched with a punch and die set and some are individual rivets. Tell me which ones are the individual rivets..........

Regards,
Graeme

GTB · Post by **GTB** » Tue Dec 15, 2015 3:33 pm

Keith S:114791 wrote: I guess when I eventually get around to scratch-building a locomotive (an ambition of mine) I will have the tools ready so it can have lots of rivet detail.

That's the way it works, you accumulate tools and jigs on the drip feed as you need them. The other thing to start accumulating is a good scrap box. Also worth getting a copy of Brian Wilson's book while it is still available.

Regards,
Graeme

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