how to run a mamod loco

[jim@NAL]

iv won a mamod on e bay should arrive next week id like some advice on how to run it please I had a mamod traction engine as a kid and me and my granddad use to play with but this was a long time ago so any advice would be much appreciated

[steamie1]

Use steam oil on the regulator block face (push sping bolt in or lever the reverse lever to gain a slight gap) Steam oil each piston face and rod (again push in spring bolt to get a gap) oil moving parts. Run and then allow to cool and reoil. Don't run twice without this oil it seals things up see. Mark the brass end outer side on each piston rod so the rod can be put the right way round as it will bed to its side. They all need running in about 20 runs! Run light and well oiled. Steel wheels are the best mod later on, then an oiler as this gets boring oiling it up in the end. A good cheap mod is an uprated pessure valve from Dream Steam well worth doing straight away.
Running: Get it up to pressure then walk the first few yards with the reg lever cracked open and back it off as it clears condensate. If not it will accelerate. When you get it right, she will putter round. Too much, she will fly off the first bend. A good run is a slow run with no stops and here lies the fun. There is a mamod section in this Forum. Good luck and watch the water.

[DLRdan]

Have you got a link to the auction ? It will help with a start up guide.

[jim@NAL]

here's the link
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/G-SCALE-MAMOD ... true&rt=nc

[DLRdan]

Thanks.


The fill the boiler to just below the MAX mark on the sightglass since this is your first run. It might also be usefull to give the boiler a quick washout just in case.

Oil round the moving parts. As there isn't a lubricator fitted, gently pull the cylinders off the portface and dribble some steam oil down the gap. Also put a drop on the piston rods.

Fill the meths burner with about 10ml of methsand give it a couple of seconds to flow down the tubes and up the wicks.

Make sure that the regulator is closed and the reverser at the front of the loco is in neutral (straight up).

There are two ways to do this bit, you can lift the loco and light the wicks from underneath or through the holes in the frames. you should just about be able to see 3 flames down the side of the boiler if its a dull day.

It won't take long for the safety valve to lift, when it does put the loco into forwards ( lever pointing towards the smokebox hinge). Slowly open the in cab regulator, start with about 1/4 of a turn opening further if nessecary. You should start to see a little bit of bubbling around the cylinders.

Slowly push the loco forwards to clear the water from the cylinders. After about 3 feet or so it should get a little easier to push, from here you can open the regulator untill the loco moves off. If running on blocks you can just open the regulator untill the wheels start to rotate, the cylinders should clear themselves.

Once running you may need to close the regulator if its picked up speed now the cylinders are warmed through.

Thats about all there is to it really. Once you get comfortable with the loco you can top up water and fuel when needed, it might also be worth dropping some oil on the port faces when you do.


Have fun

[jim@NAL]

thank you all very very much this is why I do love this forum such helpful kind people il post a vid up when I get it running

[Chris Cairns]

Dan has covered most of the basics.

From what I can see in the eBay photos there is no lubricator fitted so as it is an MSS steam dome which should be finger tight sealed by an 'O' ring there is a simple method of getting steam oil to the cylinders. I use a syringe with a blunted needle to squirt the steam oil down the steam pipe but here is the late Peter Longfils method - http://www.hglw.co.uk/MSS%20and%20Mamod ... cation.pdf

I would suggest you look through that Mamod Reference Library, lots of good & useful files - http://gardenrails.myfreeforum.org/about7948.html

Looks to me that the meths burner has not been fitted properly as the burner tube appears to be bent around the chassis spacer. Either that or it is the meths burner that has a plate around the mounting stud which effectively lowers the burner and in my experience makes it less effective.



The burner on the left is the one I'm talking about (still available from Chasteam, Model Enthusiasts, and off eBay). Mine came 2nd hand from an owner who purchased it from Chasteam and I modified it by cutting that plate away around the mounting stud thus bringing the wick tubes closer to the boiler. This requires a slot cut into the chassis spacer so that the burner feed tube is generally horizontal, or very slightly down at the front (helps keep the front wick lit for longer).

Good luck with your running.

Chris Cairns

[jim@NAL]

loco arrived today so while the girl friend was at zumba class I had a little play in the garden got it running along quite nicely for my first attempt jest need to clear a few plants and overgrown bit on the line