Which Filament For...

If you are having problems with your 3D printer or have had a problem and discovered a great solution, then share your experiences here.
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philipy
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Re: Which Filament For...

Post by philipy » Sat Sep 11, 2021 1:41 pm

FWLR wrote: โ†‘
Sat Sep 11, 2021 10:13 am
It is called 3DPrinterOS, now I don't know if it is any good, but I will report back with anything I have.
I'd never heard of this but I've just had a look and I'm not sure it is, or does, what you want. It seems to be a sophisticated management software to interface various different machincs and slicers together?

I'd really suggest you look at Cura, which is free and very stable, with loads of help on the web. I just found this from a quick search:
https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/3 ... eator-pro/

Trevor Thompson
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Re: Which Filament For...

Post by Trevor Thompson » Sat Sep 11, 2021 5:38 pm

The raft is optional with flashprint and this type of printer. The comment on lifting the print by 1mm was a way to get the print to separate easily from the raft. Yes it needs cleaning up, but my experience suggests that a print is more likely to work if printed on a raft.

It also means that if it is difficult to get off the bed its just the raft which gets damaged when you have to prise it off.

Trevor

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FWLR
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Re: Which Filament For...

Post by FWLR » Sun Sep 12, 2021 9:26 am

Hi Trevor.

Thank you for your reply. I don't really have any problem with getting my parts off the bed and I clean the bed with isopropyl every other print. It might seem like I am over doing with the isopropyl, but I find that the print comes off easier now than before when I first got my machine. Then it was a case of printing first, then finding out that the problems of getting prints off were getting harder and harder, until that is I cleaned my bed for the first time with isopropyl.

I can see from the start of the conversation with Philip and I, that you have thought that I have got problems with getting parts off the bed. It is actually when I don't use a raft on some parts they start to lift off the bed during printing. Now I am trying to reduce the temperature of the bed and it seems to be working a little bit better. It is mainly a problem with the larger prints though that it happens because, am I right in thinking that there is a lot more heat generated because of the amount of time the extruder keeps on going over the print. It is something that can be solved I am sure of it and I have learnt a lot from Philip and the more that more experienced members than I can give there valuable time and knowledge, the more I feel that I will be able to print better parts.

That part that I have put on the screen shot is how it appears off the file before I have done any moving of it. I was just showing Phillip the setting that was being used because I couldn't see how to reduce the heat on the first initial layer and then for the rest Philip puts more heat. On Flashprint we are not able to do that it seems....

The part on the screen and for most of any part that is visible, I have found that if you print it face up like you see on the screen, it leaves all kind of marks and lines, likewise if I turn it over and print with the flat down onto the bed then like you say and Philip also, that it is a pig to get off cleanly. I do lift parts off the bed by about 2-3 mm and put linear supports on, I tend not to use the tree supports though, they are worse for getting of the parts, because no matter which setting I try to reduce the thickness of the support, it leaves horrible marks on the part when it is removed.

I try to print my parts on their side now because it tends to leave both sides pretty smooth, with hardly any marks at all, which I find after they are painted gives a lot better appearance to the part. It's a personal thing though, you may think it's not worth it and yes it does tend for longer print times and I think more filament, but the cost is minor I think, I don't know if I am right or wrong there though Trevor. Maybe there are better ways, I am not that experienced though and I do the best I can. I do improve though a little bit when like I say members give their valuable knowledge and far superior experience.

The main reason though for this thread Trevor was to find out witch filament was better for outside. Philip answered it I think with his explanation on his builds that are left outside. I think though if it was a thin part, no matter which filament was used it would end up warping in the very hot sun..
'HOT SUN :sunny: ' what's that in the UK.... :lol: :lol:

The part that I used to show on the thread that ended up warping was printed at the thinest 3mm and thickest 8mm and it isn't might to be used outside. It was something I printed for my youngest Grandson to use for school and it needed to be in four separate parts, so he could explain in class the principle of what the subject was about. School things are way beyond me now..... :lol: :lol: :lol:

Anyway I am going to try and use Cura, but if it doesn't work or load, because MacBooks seem not to want to accept or use things that I load.... :dontknow: why....

I hope that this thread can carry on with members exchanging knowledge in a simple way for other members too, then hopefully we can feel more confident with producing 3D parts for our hobby and for anything else not railway related. I do feel more confident now with TinkerCad, though there is a lot more I need to understand and put into practice, but hey, that's what so brilliant about our hobby, we are always learning don't you think.

PS sorry about the very long reply guys.........
Rod

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