I bought this SL3 at a steam toy event called J26, seemed ok on the table except for some strange things but looked like it would run.
It would not.
The steam feed seems to be leaking, check the video
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I know I can solder the pipe without dissembling the loco but Ill need to do that anyway for the mamodification process.
Ballad of the SL3
Ballad of the SL3
A steam propelled life-style.
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Chris Cairns
- Driver
- Posts: 2366
- Joined: Mon Oct 29, 2007 7:25 pm
- Location: Glasgow, Scotland
Pauly, some answers.
1. There were some early 45mm SL3's made with the straight chimney stack for the Gauge 1 association. However as you say the smoke box would be fixed to the side tanks & boiler by a black rivet, and the smoke box door handle would be held on by a black rivet as well.
2. Safety Valve. Cannot see the difference you are talking about. The Mamod SL locomotives used the same safety valve as the stationary engines. Do you mean it is a shorter version as fitted to the MM1 and early traction engines, etc.?
3. Boiler screw fitted back plates. These could be fitted to SL1's, SL3's & SL6's made from 1983 onwards after the SL1K was introduced with the screw fitted back plate boiler.
4. Cylinder Back Plate. Your cylinder back plate is held on with screws & nuts. That indicates it is either a later model from 1983 onwards, or an earlier model where the rivets from the cylinder back plate have been removed and replaced with the screws & nuts.
5. Steam Leak. It is either because the 'O' ring inside the steam dome is leaking, and/or that the solder joint on the bottom of the boiler is leaking (a common problem particularly if the boiler has been run dry at some point - there is no rubber seal on that joint it is just solder). The late Peter Longfils diagram explains it very well.
Take care removing the steam dome nut as the insert can de-solder if it has been tightened up too much. If the spring and washer are still in good condition then just replace the 'O' ring. To solder up the joint on the bottom of the boiler it is best to remove the boiler. Scrap the paint away from around the joint, roughen up the bare brass around the joint, use some flux then apply solder. You will end up with a thicker joint which will probably need filing down or the slot in the bottom front of the combustion chamber opened out so the thicker joint can slide through.
Here is what I did to my MSS kit locomotive's boiler.
6. Meths Burner. Not sure which version you have but it is normal to replace the standard chassis spacer with one that is slotted (slot to the bottom with burner in the slot under that spacer). The screws that hold the cab floor to the chassis frames will normally need trimming so they do not protrude out of the nuts, and you may need to open out the slot in the rear drag beam to allow the retaining stud to fit.
I would also recommend flushing the boiler out. Best way is if you remove the boiler from the loco, take all the fittings off then soak the boiler in vinegar for up to 48 hours (if you have a suitable container/bottle) then flush it out well with cold water. Otherwise use a 50% vinegar/50% water solution in the boiler and heat it up to just before boiling with the safety valve removed. Let it cool down then agitate the boiler - repeat heating again if required. Empty boiler out then flush it with cold water until it is clear - my new MSS boiler needed flushing out over 10 times before it was clean.
Chris Cairns.
1. There were some early 45mm SL3's made with the straight chimney stack for the Gauge 1 association. However as you say the smoke box would be fixed to the side tanks & boiler by a black rivet, and the smoke box door handle would be held on by a black rivet as well.
2. Safety Valve. Cannot see the difference you are talking about. The Mamod SL locomotives used the same safety valve as the stationary engines. Do you mean it is a shorter version as fitted to the MM1 and early traction engines, etc.?
3. Boiler screw fitted back plates. These could be fitted to SL1's, SL3's & SL6's made from 1983 onwards after the SL1K was introduced with the screw fitted back plate boiler.
4. Cylinder Back Plate. Your cylinder back plate is held on with screws & nuts. That indicates it is either a later model from 1983 onwards, or an earlier model where the rivets from the cylinder back plate have been removed and replaced with the screws & nuts.
5. Steam Leak. It is either because the 'O' ring inside the steam dome is leaking, and/or that the solder joint on the bottom of the boiler is leaking (a common problem particularly if the boiler has been run dry at some point - there is no rubber seal on that joint it is just solder). The late Peter Longfils diagram explains it very well.
Take care removing the steam dome nut as the insert can de-solder if it has been tightened up too much. If the spring and washer are still in good condition then just replace the 'O' ring. To solder up the joint on the bottom of the boiler it is best to remove the boiler. Scrap the paint away from around the joint, roughen up the bare brass around the joint, use some flux then apply solder. You will end up with a thicker joint which will probably need filing down or the slot in the bottom front of the combustion chamber opened out so the thicker joint can slide through.
Here is what I did to my MSS kit locomotive's boiler.
6. Meths Burner. Not sure which version you have but it is normal to replace the standard chassis spacer with one that is slotted (slot to the bottom with burner in the slot under that spacer). The screws that hold the cab floor to the chassis frames will normally need trimming so they do not protrude out of the nuts, and you may need to open out the slot in the rear drag beam to allow the retaining stud to fit.
I would also recommend flushing the boiler out. Best way is if you remove the boiler from the loco, take all the fittings off then soak the boiler in vinegar for up to 48 hours (if you have a suitable container/bottle) then flush it out well with cold water. Otherwise use a 50% vinegar/50% water solution in the boiler and heat it up to just before boiling with the safety valve removed. Let it cool down then agitate the boiler - repeat heating again if required. Empty boiler out then flush it with cold water until it is clear - my new MSS boiler needed flushing out over 10 times before it was clean.
Chris Cairns.
When I got the loco it was fitted with what looked like an MM1 SV which was inoperable, the dealer just nabbed another SV off a nearby mamod SP stationary when I complained.
I'm aware of the dome, not looking forward to taking that off, Iv done it before and putting it back together was a horrible nightmare.
I'm aware of the dome, not looking forward to taking that off, Iv done it before and putting it back together was a horrible nightmare.
A steam propelled life-style.
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A steam propelled life-style.
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Chris Cairns
- Driver
- Posts: 2366
- Joined: Mon Oct 29, 2007 7:25 pm
- Location: Glasgow, Scotland
Making good progress Pauly.
There should be a brass washer (see diagram above) on top of the 'O' ring inside the steam dome which helps the spring compress the 'O' ring without damaging it.
The seal for the steam dome nut is about the only part on the original Mamod SL locomotives that is no longer available. MSS use a large 'O' ring there but their boiler insert is a slightly different shape. I make my steam dome seals out of some gasket sheet.
The screws holding the cylinders on to the chassis at the back are obviously replacements for the original rivets so hopefully the gaskets are still in good condition.
Chris Cairns.
There should be a brass washer (see diagram above) on top of the 'O' ring inside the steam dome which helps the spring compress the 'O' ring without damaging it.
The seal for the steam dome nut is about the only part on the original Mamod SL locomotives that is no longer available. MSS use a large 'O' ring there but their boiler insert is a slightly different shape. I make my steam dome seals out of some gasket sheet.
The screws holding the cylinders on to the chassis at the back are obviously replacements for the original rivets so hopefully the gaskets are still in good condition.
Chris Cairns.
right Iv been making a little list of items to order from RWM and thought I better ask here to make sure their actually viable to use on my mamod.
1: Silver soldered copper Janet boiler + matching combustion chamber
Iv a few concerns with this, just how easy will it go into a mamod? does it come with the require piping to hook it up ect
Janet comes fitted with a displacement lubricator will the boiler come with one fitted or will I have to fit my own?
I would just get a mamod specific boiler upgrade but I cant see one on RWMs site and I aint going back to DreamSteam willingly.
2: Janet cab back
Again Im unsure how easy it would be to connect to a mamod, wouldnt want to waste my money when I could get easier and better result with a hack saw and the standard mamod cab
Iv also got a few oither little things but they shouldnt be a problem, I know I could just phone Roy up and ask him but I havent actually been able to get hold of him on the phone and I hate doing this kinda thing by Email so Id rather have my order good and ready when I d get hold of him.
1: Silver soldered copper Janet boiler + matching combustion chamber
Iv a few concerns with this, just how easy will it go into a mamod? does it come with the require piping to hook it up ect
Janet comes fitted with a displacement lubricator will the boiler come with one fitted or will I have to fit my own?
I would just get a mamod specific boiler upgrade but I cant see one on RWMs site and I aint going back to DreamSteam willingly.
2: Janet cab back
Again Im unsure how easy it would be to connect to a mamod, wouldnt want to waste my money when I could get easier and better result with a hack saw and the standard mamod cab
Iv also got a few oither little things but they shouldnt be a problem, I know I could just phone Roy up and ask him but I havent actually been able to get hold of him on the phone and I hate doing this kinda thing by Email so Id rather have my order good and ready when I d get hold of him.
A steam propelled life-style.
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Lner fan Sam
- Fireman
- Posts: 491
- Joined: Sun Nov 25, 2012 7:57 pm
- Location: Sunderland, north east of England
Regarding the Janet cab back I have one of those to fit to my loco. The main problem with my cab back is that the holes on it don't match up with the holes on the frames.however I am talking only a few thou out here and should be easier enough to sort out with a small round file.
If I was you pauly I would get one, they are good quality products.
If I was you pauly I would get one, they are good quality products.
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Chris Cairns
- Driver
- Posts: 2366
- Joined: Mon Oct 29, 2007 7:25 pm
- Location: Glasgow, Scotland
High Pressure Boiler - Technically these were never made as a direct replacement for the Mamod/MSS boiler. The Dream Steam one was inherited from IP Eng and was the IP Jane boiler. The RWM one was inherited from PPS as the Janet boiler, and RWM has removed one of the extra boiler inserts.
To fit these to a standard Mamod/MSS you will need to cut the cab front (IP Jane and RWM Janet do not use the same cab front, but rather a spectacle plate) to fit around the regulator housing, and you need to decide where you will fit the steam pipe from the in cab lubricator to the reverser valve at the front. In the IP Jane/RWM Janet it does not go down from the cab inside the chassis frames but goes in the lower side of the combustion chamber from the cab front.
Neither the Dream Steam nor the RWM boiler come with a lubricator so that needs to be added to your shopping list. Not clear whether you get a steam pipe with the RWM Boiler.
Cab Back - The RWM Janet cab back should fit a Mamod/MSS. As Sam (Lner fan Sam) implies these models suffer from quality control so a little reaming of a hole or two may be required. If you cut the top off your Mamod cab back you then have the problem of how the remaining part of the cab back is then supported - we already discussed cutting a hole out of the cab back in your Frozen SL2 rebuild Topic.
If you are having problems getting a hold of Roy Wood on the phone why not send him an e-mail (which he does promptly reply to) to arrange a convenient time to discuss your order - unlike Dream Steam & PPS he is very approachable.
Chris Cairns.
To fit these to a standard Mamod/MSS you will need to cut the cab front (IP Jane and RWM Janet do not use the same cab front, but rather a spectacle plate) to fit around the regulator housing, and you need to decide where you will fit the steam pipe from the in cab lubricator to the reverser valve at the front. In the IP Jane/RWM Janet it does not go down from the cab inside the chassis frames but goes in the lower side of the combustion chamber from the cab front.
Neither the Dream Steam nor the RWM boiler come with a lubricator so that needs to be added to your shopping list. Not clear whether you get a steam pipe with the RWM Boiler.
Cab Back - The RWM Janet cab back should fit a Mamod/MSS. As Sam (Lner fan Sam) implies these models suffer from quality control so a little reaming of a hole or two may be required. If you cut the top off your Mamod cab back you then have the problem of how the remaining part of the cab back is then supported - we already discussed cutting a hole out of the cab back in your Frozen SL2 rebuild Topic.
If you are having problems getting a hold of Roy Wood on the phone why not send him an e-mail (which he does promptly reply to) to arrange a convenient time to discuss your order - unlike Dream Steam & PPS he is very approachable.
Chris Cairns.
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