'Frozen Dawn' SL2 re-build

A very popular starting point for Live Steam. With their low cost comes a number of problems which can be discussed here
pauly
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Post by pauly » Tue Mar 26, 2013 3:28 pm

DolwyddelanLightRail:81619 wrote:Good to see you around once more Pauly! :D

Was that the loco you put outside for scrap cause of the cracked boiler or were that another loco :?:
that was another loco, a mixture of worn and broken bits.

Now serving as th estationary boiler for my factory

Iv been thinking and if I could get a large meths burner Id be able to save a fair bit of money on the purchases of both the gas burner and new boiler.

Iv contacted Gremlin to ask him about his custom burners
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Post by pauly » Tue Mar 26, 2013 7:57 pm

rotten bit of luck Gremlin doesnt make those burners anymore.

I have an IP meths burner but its capacity is infuriatingly small

if anyone knows where I can get a high capacity meths burner let me know
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Post by pauly » Wed Apr 03, 2013 3:22 am

Now that the parts I need are on the way I want to start stripping her down to bare metal.

Anyone got some good hints on paint stripping a mamod and prepping for a re-paint?
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Post by Narrow Minded » Wed Apr 03, 2013 9:47 am

An old ice cream tub (with a snap-shut lid), a can of "Nitromors" (or equivalent) and an aerosol can of "Hyper Clean" (or similar).
You should also get a couple of brushes, I use a 1/2inch paint brush, and an old tooth brush, plus some disposable rubber gloves.

Give the parts a good lathering with the Nitromors and seal 'em in the tub to "pickle overnight.
The paint strippers aren't as powerful as they used to be thanks to our Nanny State government, so you might have to do this a couple of times.

The paint will simply scrub off the parts, which should then be rinsed clean and dried.

A squirt with the Hyper Clean (engine de-greaser) followed by another rinse & dry will see you ready for priming and paint! :D
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Post by dougrail » Wed Apr 03, 2013 1:31 pm

Better paintstrippin than overnight can be found using BioStrip - my weapon of choice. Make some cuts/incisions into the paintwork and 1ather the Biostrip paste over the part 1ibera11y. Can take two app1ications mind.

Then just scrape the resu1tant rubbery-paint-remains off, start sanding and degreasing using engine degreaser or white spirit. Sand the parts to be repainted, go through at 1east three rades of sandpaper, oing from a coarse bite to a smooth bite.

Etch primer is the best out there but it shows where one has s1acked in the prep dept :D

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Post by DLRdan » Wed Apr 03, 2013 8:14 pm

Completely off topic but why is your post full of number ones ?
Dan,

James: "Dan, can you use your hearing and tell me if that trains coming ?"
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Post by dougrail » Wed Apr 03, 2013 11:01 pm

Mine Dan? Crap phone. Lost the 'l' key on it [Nokia E5, has a solid keypad] and so substituted. Looking forward to my replacement phone [Xperia S] this week....!

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Post by Dr. Bond of the DVLR » Wed Apr 03, 2013 11:06 pm

Reminds me of Christmas...
Noe1, noe1...
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Post by Narrow Minded » Thu Apr 04, 2013 1:22 am

Reminds me of Tom Jones......
1t'5 n0t unu5u41
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Post by Spule 4 » Thu Apr 04, 2013 3:12 am

Or a bunch of UK vanity auto registration numbers? We actually get to spell things with ours in the US and it costs under $100. :D

Anhow, another method that does work I learned from a friend who restores tinplate US trains. Boil the parts in a pot of water with powder type laundry detergent....assuming you can still get the phosphate type stuff in the UK still? :shock:

http://www.tcaetrain.org/articles/restore/restore514/
Garrett

"Some say that Mamods have problems.  Whatever. I view them as opportunities for improvement."

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Post by pauly » Fri Apr 12, 2013 6:00 pm

Im just bout ready to really start this project but Im still waiting on my new wheels from DreamSteam. :|
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Post by Narrow Minded » Fri Apr 12, 2013 6:59 pm

pauly:82104 wrote:Im just bout ready to really start this project but Im still waiting on my new wheels from DreamSteam.   :|
Commiserations - I'm still waiting for a replacement set promised for the ones supplied which (eventually) arrived with the wrong sized spacers!

All I can say is that you should have gone to RJW ;)
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Post by Chris Cairns » Fri Apr 12, 2013 7:14 pm

you should have gone to RJW
Or more accurately, RWM Steam.

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Post by Narrow Minded » Fri Apr 12, 2013 7:18 pm

Chris Cairns:82114 wrote:
you should have gone to RJW
Or more accurately, RWM Steam.

Chris Cairns.
RWM :oops:
Tired - it's been a long haul down to Torquay! 8)
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Post by Chris Cairns » Fri Apr 12, 2013 7:30 pm

If you are still there on Sunday the PS Kingswear Castle is cruising from its new home at Dartmouth.

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Post by Narrow Minded » Sat Apr 13, 2013 8:59 am

Unfortunately not - driving up to Woolacombe today (might get a detour to see the L&B), then drive home overnight ready for a local gig on sunday. ;)
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Post by pauly » Tue Apr 16, 2013 8:31 pm

since my mamods an SL2 it has a riveted back boiler plate, I am right in assuming that if I want to reassemble the back plate with bolts Id need to get a new boiler which support bolts wouldnt I?
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Chris Cairns
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Post by Chris Cairns » Tue Apr 16, 2013 8:51 pm

Pauly, you can drill out the rivets from your SL2 boiler, and then solder in 2 x 6BA screws and use 2 washers and nuts to hold the back plate against the sight glass - http://gardenrails.myfreeforum.org/about6423.html

I would recommend getting the Mamod oval sight glass seal (I do not have any spare at present [hope that Mamod will have some at Peterborough], but Doug may be able to help out as he got some from Mamod). The 'O' ring that MSS and their suppliers sell is too thin and it is frustrating difficult to get a proper seal (the one on my MSS kit build did not seal so I used a Mamod oval sight glass seal instead).

Chris Cairns.

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Post by dougrail » Tue Apr 16, 2013 9:29 pm

Hi folks,

Can supply thicker Mamod 0-rings if wanted, I got a few. I would advise shaving 0.5mm off each vertical side of the ring though as they are a little wide and tend to squash/flex in when the glass compresses.

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Post by pauly » Tue Apr 16, 2013 10:10 pm

dougrail:82280 wrote:Hi folks,

Can supply thicker Mamod 0-rings if wanted, I got a few. I would advise shaving 0.5mm off each vertical side of the ring though as they are a little wide and tend to squash/flex in when the glass compresses.
Iv already got a spare MSS rubber seal so Ill try that but if it gives me trouble Ill give you a bell Doug.

Ill use the solder-bolt work around, thanks for the advice Chris.
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