http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=derfSki7CjE
I found out that the Roundhouse iso 220 seems to give less fast spurts. I did run it breifly with no oil as cold as I could to see if the spurts are oil feed. When no oil getttis in it quickens till the next emulsified oil.This is being very picky I love the way it runs and the occasional speed up can be at the right place and only adds interest. I do run roundhouse 220 now. aparently it is less lickly to fur up the pipe with heavy hot use. I'm so happy with the Mk2 running though. radio out on this one as I've done all I can.
New Mamod running
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Chris Cairns
- Driver
- Posts: 2366
- Joined: Mon Oct 29, 2007 7:25 pm
- Location: Glasgow, Scotland
That is really running well now Lloyd.
However I see you still have steam leaking through the piston gland on the LHS, which occurs just as the loco slows down at about 2:25 mins - maybe some more packing out required.
Have you done anything with the combustion chamber/chassis frame air slots? I've just replaced my nylon gas pipe with copper tubing and I'm considering blocking up those holes in the combustion chamber side walls.
One theory I've read elsewhere on-line is that these bursts of speed increases are due to the water boiling over and going down the steam pipe. It could also be due to the overflow style steam pipe in the lubricator allowing the condensed steam to overflow to the reverser valve. Certainly they do not occur as much later into a run, but of course by then the oil has been used up. I'll add some Roundhouse 220 Steam Oil to my Peterborough shopping list to experiment with.
Chris Cairns.
However I see you still have steam leaking through the piston gland on the LHS, which occurs just as the loco slows down at about 2:25 mins - maybe some more packing out required.
Have you done anything with the combustion chamber/chassis frame air slots? I've just replaced my nylon gas pipe with copper tubing and I'm considering blocking up those holes in the combustion chamber side walls.
One theory I've read elsewhere on-line is that these bursts of speed increases are due to the water boiling over and going down the steam pipe. It could also be due to the overflow style steam pipe in the lubricator allowing the condensed steam to overflow to the reverser valve. Certainly they do not occur as much later into a run, but of course by then the oil has been used up. I'll add some Roundhouse 220 Steam Oil to my Peterborough shopping list to experiment with.
Chris Cairns.
Hi Chris I notice the LHS leaks but does not seem to worry a good run, so I left it. The combustion chamber works well so I am leaving it, as it is. I think the oil theory to speed is correct as the increase spurts can bee seen exagerated, with thicker oil. Although power is up, on thick oil and all leaks go. She will never have the refinement of a Roundhouse but I love it for what it is. It does work and work well.
It is like a budget car in the rain. It is better than walking! I'm lucky to have two Roundhouse locos. They work so well they don't enduce a tinker. They work so well, they can be a tad boring. They are costly, so come out on high days only and sit on plinths . The MK2 will allow me to experiment and tinker. It is run ALL the time. I don't worry about it falling over or the odd bump. It is like having a Fiesta and seeing how much you can take to the dump in it! If I have to sell one it will be a Roundhouse Loco first as one is all you need. The Mk2 stays just for fun.
If you do block the holes can you let me know the result.
Also does anyone know how the heat escapes on the Mk2 Saddle Tank? This looks liek it could get MEGA hot. I need educating. Has anyone got a Saddle Tank ?
Keep up the good work with the technical bits we read and learn. Thank you.
It is like a budget car in the rain. It is better than walking! I'm lucky to have two Roundhouse locos. They work so well they don't enduce a tinker. They work so well, they can be a tad boring. They are costly, so come out on high days only and sit on plinths . The MK2 will allow me to experiment and tinker. It is run ALL the time. I don't worry about it falling over or the odd bump. It is like having a Fiesta and seeing how much you can take to the dump in it! If I have to sell one it will be a Roundhouse Loco first as one is all you need. The Mk2 stays just for fun.
If you do block the holes can you let me know the result.
Also does anyone know how the heat escapes on the Mk2 Saddle Tank? This looks liek it could get MEGA hot. I need educating. Has anyone got a Saddle Tank ?
Keep up the good work with the technical bits we read and learn. Thank you.
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Chris Cairns
- Driver
- Posts: 2366
- Joined: Mon Oct 29, 2007 7:25 pm
- Location: Glasgow, Scotland
Oiling Regime Mamod Mark II
Having had to use up a leaky gas canister I have just had several runs with my Mark II and have adapted a new oiling regime.
I put some steam oil on the cylinder back plate faces, and with the pistons fully extended I put some steam oil on the piston at the gland end then work the piston in & out (possibly helps reduce those leaky glands). This is a standard practise for all my Mamod & MSS locomotives.
The new bit - For the lubricator I remove the filler plug with the loco vertical (not on it's side) and after some of the condensate has drained out I use a syringe with a blunt needle to suck out the rest. With the loco still vertical I use the Mamod steam oil bottle to squirt some steam oil into the lubricator and replace the filler plug. Doing this seems to get less oil being sucked through at the beginning of a run with it ending up all over the front running plate, and seemed to reduce the speed spurts as well.
Chris Cairns.
I put some steam oil on the cylinder back plate faces, and with the pistons fully extended I put some steam oil on the piston at the gland end then work the piston in & out (possibly helps reduce those leaky glands). This is a standard practise for all my Mamod & MSS locomotives.
The new bit - For the lubricator I remove the filler plug with the loco vertical (not on it's side) and after some of the condensate has drained out I use a syringe with a blunt needle to suck out the rest. With the loco still vertical I use the Mamod steam oil bottle to squirt some steam oil into the lubricator and replace the filler plug. Doing this seems to get less oil being sucked through at the beginning of a run with it ending up all over the front running plate, and seemed to reduce the speed spurts as well.
Chris Cairns.
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Chris Cairns
- Driver
- Posts: 2366
- Joined: Mon Oct 29, 2007 7:25 pm
- Location: Glasgow, Scotland
Doug,
The Mamod lubricator is a totally different beast to your PPS one. What I think happens with the Mamod one is you tend to turn the loco on its side to empty out the lubricator then turn it over the other way and fill it up. This means that some of the oil goes straight down the steam exit pipe (it is like an overflow pipe in a cistern/water tank) ending up making a mess of the front running plate. By not turning the loco on its side hopefully you stop the oil going down this overflow pipe initially until enough steam has condensed in the lubricator to displace the oil.
I suspect your RWM cylinders still need running in and lots of lubrication. I find it can take some time to get new 'O' ring pistons bedded in, and initially I try and squeeze some lighter grade oil in to the cylinders to ease the stiffness.
Chris Cairns.
The Mamod lubricator is a totally different beast to your PPS one. What I think happens with the Mamod one is you tend to turn the loco on its side to empty out the lubricator then turn it over the other way and fill it up. This means that some of the oil goes straight down the steam exit pipe (it is like an overflow pipe in a cistern/water tank) ending up making a mess of the front running plate. By not turning the loco on its side hopefully you stop the oil going down this overflow pipe initially until enough steam has condensed in the lubricator to displace the oil.
I suspect your RWM cylinders still need running in and lots of lubrication. I find it can take some time to get new 'O' ring pistons bedded in, and initially I try and squeeze some lighter grade oil in to the cylinders to ease the stiffness.
Chris Cairns.
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