As for colours you have a choice of green. Its not going to be economic for them to offer a variety, at least at this stage. I can't see them being able to offer a Roundhouse colour range. Maybe when they've sold a couple of hundred?
They will of course sell you one unpainted (except for the boiler) and you can paint it any colour you like.
Mike
Thomas Telford Locomotive - Take Two
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mikewakefielduk@btinterne
- Fireman
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- Location: Shropshire
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Dannypenguin
- Trainee Driver
- Posts: 632
- Joined: Tue Feb 26, 2013 9:57 am
- Location: Forest of Dean, UK
- Contact:
Thanks for the pictures and report Mike, loco looks nice 
The only thing I don't like the look of is the cab side extending underneath the footplate 
The only thing I don't like the look of is the cab side extending underneath the footplate Dan
Visit the PFLR website - http://poultonfarmlightrailway.webs.com/
Dean Forest Railway Society website - http://dfrsociety.org/
Visit the PFLR website - http://poultonfarmlightrailway.webs.com/
Dean Forest Railway Society website - http://dfrsociety.org/
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mikewakefielduk@btinterne
- Fireman
- Posts: 309
- Joined: Wed Nov 28, 2012 1:43 pm
- Location: Shropshire
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Lner fan Sam
- Fireman
- Posts: 491
- Joined: Sun Nov 25, 2012 7:57 pm
- Location: Sunderland, north east of England
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mikewakefielduk@btinterne
- Fireman
- Posts: 309
- Joined: Wed Nov 28, 2012 1:43 pm
- Location: Shropshire
Yes certainly. It ran straight out of the box and all looks fine, everything is looks square, all nuts tight, etc. Having said I thought the build quality of the Mk11s tends to be pretty good anyway although there's always going to be the odd "Friday afternoon" one every so often. What's more important in my view is the after sale service and in that I've always found Mamod to be first rate.but would you say that the build quality on this loco is better than the mk2?
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Lner fan Sam
- Fireman
- Posts: 491
- Joined: Sun Nov 25, 2012 7:57 pm
- Location: Sunderland, north east of England
To be honest I ran my MK2 with Roundhouse oil and the oil lasted the run just fine with little mess. It was more speradic with Accucraft oil. I found the build was first class on my Mk2. Considering I own a Ragleth a Tom Rolt and a Charles, I loved myMk2. I hit bad times with the car and had to sell a loco, the Mamod got it, because it was the least expensive. There is a place for these fun easy to own locos. I'm saving now to replace it or buy this Telford. Long live the simple oscillator!
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Chris Cairns
- Driver
- Posts: 2366
- Joined: Mon Oct 29, 2007 7:25 pm
- Location: Glasgow, Scotland
Mike,
Thank You for posting the photos comparing size & height - very useful.
I do find the subject of Driver figures very annoying with all the variations in size & height (even from the same manufacturer) yet they are all being sold as suitable for 16mm & G scale. Your BusyBodies figure is the slightly larger driver sold to suit the Edrig. He used to sell a specific Mamod driver via eBay although it does not feature on his website.
I'll leave my comments about the Thomas Telford until after I received my order.
Only item I'm aware of is the rivets used to hold the cab roof to the cab sides could be somewhat smaller in diameter than the pre-drilled holes so there could be a bit of movement when holding the loco by the cab roof.
All Mamod's are essentially hand built and certainly both my The Mamod Train (later renamed as the Mark I) and Mark II locomotives ran straight out of the box from the factory.
There is a technique to filling & using the Mark II & Saddle Tank lubricator (not as per the Mamod instructions) which I've developed, and as the Thomas Telford seems to have the same style lubricator (that is a separate steam pipe into a screw fitting on the top and the exit steam pipe being of the overflow design) it will probably be the same.
With the locomotive normally upright remove the filler plug, use a syringe to remove any remaining water then fill with steam oil (I'm using Roundhouse 220 steam oil as that causes less of the speed bursts that these Mamod boilers can suffer from - Mamod supply 460 steam oil) approx 2 mls and replace plug. The action of turning the loco on its side to fill the lubricator seems to accelerate the usage of steam oil as the overflow pipe will actually be covered over by the steam oil thus syphoning it out quicker. I'm amazed at how much steam oil we go through on these 16mm locomotives compared to a full size locomotive that uses the same 460 steam oil.
Chris Cairns
Thank You for posting the photos comparing size & height - very useful.
I do find the subject of Driver figures very annoying with all the variations in size & height (even from the same manufacturer) yet they are all being sold as suitable for 16mm & G scale. Your BusyBodies figure is the slightly larger driver sold to suit the Edrig. He used to sell a specific Mamod driver via eBay although it does not feature on his website.
I'll leave my comments about the Thomas Telford until after I received my order.
Was there a specific build problem with the Mark II's then Sam?Lner fan Sam wrote:I'm sorry for sounding like a critic but would you say that the build quality on this loco is better than the mk2?
Only item I'm aware of is the rivets used to hold the cab roof to the cab sides could be somewhat smaller in diameter than the pre-drilled holes so there could be a bit of movement when holding the loco by the cab roof.
All Mamod's are essentially hand built and certainly both my The Mamod Train (later renamed as the Mark I) and Mark II locomotives ran straight out of the box from the factory.
There is a technique to filling & using the Mark II & Saddle Tank lubricator (not as per the Mamod instructions) which I've developed, and as the Thomas Telford seems to have the same style lubricator (that is a separate steam pipe into a screw fitting on the top and the exit steam pipe being of the overflow design) it will probably be the same.
With the locomotive normally upright remove the filler plug, use a syringe to remove any remaining water then fill with steam oil (I'm using Roundhouse 220 steam oil as that causes less of the speed bursts that these Mamod boilers can suffer from - Mamod supply 460 steam oil) approx 2 mls and replace plug. The action of turning the loco on its side to fill the lubricator seems to accelerate the usage of steam oil as the overflow pipe will actually be covered over by the steam oil thus syphoning it out quicker. I'm amazed at how much steam oil we go through on these 16mm locomotives compared to a full size locomotive that uses the same 460 steam oil.
Chris Cairns
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mikewakefielduk@btinterne
- Fireman
- Posts: 309
- Joined: Wed Nov 28, 2012 1:43 pm
- Location: Shropshire
In answer to the oil usage query, quite a bit of oil was ejected while it was running but as Mamod didn't have specific instructions for the loco (only one for the Mk11) I just guessed when I filled the oiler. I could have over-filled it but suspect its going to get through oil just like the Mk11 and Brunel.
Unlike the Mk11 the steam pipe doesn't run through the burner flame but to one side so there's not really any superheating. It might stop the sudden speed bursts the Mk11 is prone to having.
Yes, my driver figures vary quite considerably in height, especially Isambard who drives my Brunel, but that's the stove-pipe hat :-) . Annoyingly the manufacturers rarely give measurements so you take pot luck. Not so much a problem with locos having open cabs.
Unlike the Mk11 the steam pipe doesn't run through the burner flame but to one side so there's not really any superheating. It might stop the sudden speed bursts the Mk11 is prone to having.
Yes, my driver figures vary quite considerably in height, especially Isambard who drives my Brunel, but that's the stove-pipe hat :-) . Annoyingly the manufacturers rarely give measurements so you take pot luck. Not so much a problem with locos having open cabs.
Apologies for not commenting earlier – I was having trouble getting a video created and uploaded.
There was at least one Telford loco sold at Peterborough, because that was where I collected mine, having pre-ordered it two years previously at Stafford when it was still the fixed cylinder design.
I have finally uploaded a video to Youtube showing the loco running on an oval of Mamod track.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_aCznz8ITpw
I don’t yet have a proper railway for it to run on, so it was a case of finding any flat, level spot large enough for a test track.
My loco does seem to be a bit of a Friday afternoon job, perhaps literally as they may have quickly put a few together specifically for that weekend. The cab is fractionally out of alignment, but it’s not very noticeable and in any case I intend to partially dismantle the loco to make a couple of cosmetic changes.
I did have some minor operational problems with the loco as follows.
There was a gas leak from the joint between the pipe and the jet. The olive had not compressed properly, which was allowing gas to flow backwards from the joint as a jet of flame acting on the rear buffer beam. I doubted that I would ever get the olive to form a reliable joint so the leak was sorted by unscrewing the joint and adding some PTFE tape between the olive and the nut.
There was a bit of a loss of steam from the cylinders along the piston rods. There is a packing gland on the cylinder which retains an O-ring and is supposed to prevent this, but this did not seem to be providing enough packing. This was cured by unscrewing the gland nut and adding a small twist of PTFE tape (again) around the piston rod, between the nut and the O-ring to increase the amount of packing.
Finally, the cylinder port faces were not completely parallel with the faces on the port block, creating very small gaps through which steam could escape. Therefore, I removed the cylinders and port blocks and lapped all of the faces to ensure that they were all parallel and flat.
Once reassembled there were no further steam leaks from the cylinders.
The gas leak was the only serious problem; the minor steam leaks would just have been the difference between a loco that performs well and one that doesn’t.
As Mike’s photos show, the cab is not very high. The doorway is 73mm high and the cab roof is 82mm above the footplate at about driver/fireman position. I am hoping to cut the bottom of the doorway down to the footstep, which will make it 87mm high. I would then also drop part of the footplate down to the same level either side of the frames, which will give the driving/firing positions about 96mm headroom. This will leave a high-point in the middle of the cab floor, but recently viewed pictures of Sir Haydn/Corris No.3 seem to show a similar arrangement on that full-sized loco. The doorway may also need to be widened very slightly, so that it looks right with the new height - I think I need to do some Photoshopping to try it out before risking cutting any metal.
- Richard
There was at least one Telford loco sold at Peterborough, because that was where I collected mine, having pre-ordered it two years previously at Stafford when it was still the fixed cylinder design.
I have finally uploaded a video to Youtube showing the loco running on an oval of Mamod track.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_aCznz8ITpw
I don’t yet have a proper railway for it to run on, so it was a case of finding any flat, level spot large enough for a test track.
My loco does seem to be a bit of a Friday afternoon job, perhaps literally as they may have quickly put a few together specifically for that weekend. The cab is fractionally out of alignment, but it’s not very noticeable and in any case I intend to partially dismantle the loco to make a couple of cosmetic changes.
I did have some minor operational problems with the loco as follows.
There was a gas leak from the joint between the pipe and the jet. The olive had not compressed properly, which was allowing gas to flow backwards from the joint as a jet of flame acting on the rear buffer beam. I doubted that I would ever get the olive to form a reliable joint so the leak was sorted by unscrewing the joint and adding some PTFE tape between the olive and the nut.
There was a bit of a loss of steam from the cylinders along the piston rods. There is a packing gland on the cylinder which retains an O-ring and is supposed to prevent this, but this did not seem to be providing enough packing. This was cured by unscrewing the gland nut and adding a small twist of PTFE tape (again) around the piston rod, between the nut and the O-ring to increase the amount of packing.
Finally, the cylinder port faces were not completely parallel with the faces on the port block, creating very small gaps through which steam could escape. Therefore, I removed the cylinders and port blocks and lapped all of the faces to ensure that they were all parallel and flat.
Once reassembled there were no further steam leaks from the cylinders.
The gas leak was the only serious problem; the minor steam leaks would just have been the difference between a loco that performs well and one that doesn’t.
As Mike’s photos show, the cab is not very high. The doorway is 73mm high and the cab roof is 82mm above the footplate at about driver/fireman position. I am hoping to cut the bottom of the doorway down to the footstep, which will make it 87mm high. I would then also drop part of the footplate down to the same level either side of the frames, which will give the driving/firing positions about 96mm headroom. This will leave a high-point in the middle of the cab floor, but recently viewed pictures of Sir Haydn/Corris No.3 seem to show a similar arrangement on that full-sized loco. The doorway may also need to be widened very slightly, so that it looks right with the new height - I think I need to do some Photoshopping to try it out before risking cutting any metal.
- Richard
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Chris Cairns
- Driver
- Posts: 2366
- Joined: Mon Oct 29, 2007 7:25 pm
- Location: Glasgow, Scotland
Hi Richard,
Firstly Welcome to the Forums, and congratulations on being the first to post a video of an oscillating Thomas Telford in live steam. Thank You.
To answer your points: -
1. Gas Leak I've found the tolerances used between the gas jet diameter and the burner holder means it is a loose fit. You can see the gas leaking result of this on the 2nd hand Diamond Jubilee locomotive I obtained here - http://gardenrails.myfreeforum.org/about6858.html I now wrap the jet exterior with PTFE tape before fitting it back into the holder. Most of my Mamod's came with the plastic/nylon gas pipe fitted which are slowly being replaced with copper tubing. I solder an olive onto the gas pipe going into the jet making sure the protruding end of the pipe is short enough so it does not hit the back of the jet when tightened up.
2. Piston Gland Totally agree with your observations. They appear to have got their measurements wrong (unless they expect the 'O' ring to roll like it does on the piston) as the gland nut does not compress the 'O' ring at all. On my Brunel & William II the leak was causing a significant drop in performance so I fitted a second 'O' ring (just sliced open to fit over the piston rod) and do up the gland nut finger tight. Not needed to do it on my oscillators so far, but I always coat the extended piston rod with steam oil prior to a run.
3. Cylinder/Backplate Honing Always a problem when running in oscillators but a simple process to fix prior to running in. I did this on one of my locos (Mark I or II) prior to running in which certainly helped.
As they used a solid fuel burner the original Mamod SL1 had a dropped cab floor so you could get the burner tray under the boiler. Thus you can just get some of the 16mm scale figures to fit. Be interested to see your cab floor conversion in due course.
Chris Cairns
Firstly Welcome to the Forums, and congratulations on being the first to post a video of an oscillating Thomas Telford in live steam. Thank You.
To answer your points: -
1. Gas Leak I've found the tolerances used between the gas jet diameter and the burner holder means it is a loose fit. You can see the gas leaking result of this on the 2nd hand Diamond Jubilee locomotive I obtained here - http://gardenrails.myfreeforum.org/about6858.html I now wrap the jet exterior with PTFE tape before fitting it back into the holder. Most of my Mamod's came with the plastic/nylon gas pipe fitted which are slowly being replaced with copper tubing. I solder an olive onto the gas pipe going into the jet making sure the protruding end of the pipe is short enough so it does not hit the back of the jet when tightened up.
2. Piston Gland Totally agree with your observations. They appear to have got their measurements wrong (unless they expect the 'O' ring to roll like it does on the piston) as the gland nut does not compress the 'O' ring at all. On my Brunel & William II the leak was causing a significant drop in performance so I fitted a second 'O' ring (just sliced open to fit over the piston rod) and do up the gland nut finger tight. Not needed to do it on my oscillators so far, but I always coat the extended piston rod with steam oil prior to a run.
3. Cylinder/Backplate Honing Always a problem when running in oscillators but a simple process to fix prior to running in. I did this on one of my locos (Mark I or II) prior to running in which certainly helped.
As they used a solid fuel burner the original Mamod SL1 had a dropped cab floor so you could get the burner tray under the boiler. Thus you can just get some of the 16mm scale figures to fit. Be interested to see your cab floor conversion in due course.
Chris Cairns
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mikewakefielduk@btinterne
- Fireman
- Posts: 309
- Joined: Wed Nov 28, 2012 1:43 pm
- Location: Shropshire
Thanks for you detailed comments and video Richard.
Since my euphoria on Friday at actually getting my hands on a Telford and posting my first comments (like you I had originally ordered it at the NEC back in 2012) I've been test running the loco off and on throughout yesterday. Because my outside track is being rebuilt I'm limited to a rolling road but I regret to say the euphoria is wearing off rapidly as I too am having issues. I'd given Mamod a couple of weeks warning as to when I was collecting the loco so it wasn't a "Friday Afternoon" rush job. Indeed the date of manufacture under the cab roof is in April and I received it on May 9th.
The good news is my loco's cab seems square and there certainly isn't a gas leak.
However I am experiencing problems, namely:
1. When I first tried running the loco I couldn't get it to run at all on the rolling road and instead had to support it on two blocks. After two or three runs this improved and it now runs on the rolling road, so I put that initial problem down to it being new and needing running in.
2. The wheels are wobbly and there's sometimes a knocking noise, particularly in reverse. I can't see what's causing this. Also, with the piston rods taken off the cranks, you can feel a rough point when you rotate the wheels, but again I couldn't trace the cause.
3. The loco keeps running out of steam and stopping. I fitted the pressure gauge from my Brunel into the water filler hole on the boiler so I could monitor what's happening. From cold it takes about 5 minutes for the pressure gauge to move. At about 15 psi the wheels will start to rotate but within a few seconds the pressure drops down to below 10psi and they stop again. I closed the regulator and pressure rises and the cycle can be repeated. I then turned the gas up until the flames were nearly coming out of the side tank tops . The paint gets very hot but so far so good, it hasn't bubbled. Glad I didn't have the decals fixed on the sides though. Pressure quickly climbs but it now takes 20 psi before the wheels will turn and then they race into life. Again pressure slowly drops until they stop again around the 15 psi mark, so clearly as its getting hot there's an increase in friction somewhere. There was still steam oil being ejected so it wasn't that.
So, to summarise, wobbly wheels, rough spot, running out of steam. Interestingly watching your video on YouTube, I noticed your loco slow down after a few circuits and then speed up again. Mine also leaks some steam along the piston rods
This really shouldn't be happening. The wheels and cylinders are basically the same as the Mk11, and Mamod must have made hundreds of these. I've owned two, and both ran fine pretty well out of the box.
I'm going over to see Mamod tomorrow (they gave me some incorrect parts to re-gear my Brunel, so I need to change them) so, instead of investigating further myself I'm taking the Telford back to them for it to be fixed. I'm expecting a non-wobbly wheels set that rotate without roughness. I'll also get them to run it for a while to see the losing steam pressure. I'm hoping the fix will be a set of cylinders that don't leak so much but am worried it might be something else. My Mk11's used to leak a bit in the same place and they didn't keep slowing down and speeding up. Watch this space to see how Mamod respond.
Mike
Since my euphoria on Friday at actually getting my hands on a Telford and posting my first comments (like you I had originally ordered it at the NEC back in 2012) I've been test running the loco off and on throughout yesterday. Because my outside track is being rebuilt I'm limited to a rolling road but I regret to say the euphoria is wearing off rapidly as I too am having issues. I'd given Mamod a couple of weeks warning as to when I was collecting the loco so it wasn't a "Friday Afternoon" rush job. Indeed the date of manufacture under the cab roof is in April and I received it on May 9th.
The good news is my loco's cab seems square and there certainly isn't a gas leak.
However I am experiencing problems, namely:
1. When I first tried running the loco I couldn't get it to run at all on the rolling road and instead had to support it on two blocks. After two or three runs this improved and it now runs on the rolling road, so I put that initial problem down to it being new and needing running in.
2. The wheels are wobbly and there's sometimes a knocking noise, particularly in reverse. I can't see what's causing this. Also, with the piston rods taken off the cranks, you can feel a rough point when you rotate the wheels, but again I couldn't trace the cause.
3. The loco keeps running out of steam and stopping. I fitted the pressure gauge from my Brunel into the water filler hole on the boiler so I could monitor what's happening. From cold it takes about 5 minutes for the pressure gauge to move. At about 15 psi the wheels will start to rotate but within a few seconds the pressure drops down to below 10psi and they stop again. I closed the regulator and pressure rises and the cycle can be repeated. I then turned the gas up until the flames were nearly coming out of the side tank tops . The paint gets very hot but so far so good, it hasn't bubbled. Glad I didn't have the decals fixed on the sides though. Pressure quickly climbs but it now takes 20 psi before the wheels will turn and then they race into life. Again pressure slowly drops until they stop again around the 15 psi mark, so clearly as its getting hot there's an increase in friction somewhere. There was still steam oil being ejected so it wasn't that.
So, to summarise, wobbly wheels, rough spot, running out of steam. Interestingly watching your video on YouTube, I noticed your loco slow down after a few circuits and then speed up again. Mine also leaks some steam along the piston rods
This really shouldn't be happening. The wheels and cylinders are basically the same as the Mk11, and Mamod must have made hundreds of these. I've owned two, and both ran fine pretty well out of the box.
I'm going over to see Mamod tomorrow (they gave me some incorrect parts to re-gear my Brunel, so I need to change them) so, instead of investigating further myself I'm taking the Telford back to them for it to be fixed. I'm expecting a non-wobbly wheels set that rotate without roughness. I'll also get them to run it for a while to see the losing steam pressure. I'm hoping the fix will be a set of cylinders that don't leak so much but am worried it might be something else. My Mk11's used to leak a bit in the same place and they didn't keep slowing down and speeding up. Watch this space to see how Mamod respond.
Mike
Last edited by mikewakefielduk@btinterne on Tue May 13, 2014 10:56 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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mikewakefielduk@btinterne
- Fireman
- Posts: 309
- Joined: Wed Nov 28, 2012 1:43 pm
- Location: Shropshire
OK, all issues are pretty well sorted. and I'm feeling good about the loco again.
1) Wobbly wheels were replaced with a new wheel set. Examination of the wobbly ones, once removed from the loco, showed the wobble was very slight, certainly not like the MSS problem posted on the forum recently.
2) The rough spot was found to be a tiny bit of metal in one hole of a coupling rod. It was catching on the inside of the circlip that retains the rods onto the crank pin and impossible to see once the circlip was in place. As it only caught the circlip when the wheel was to one side of its travel, you couldn't always feel it catching when you rotated the wheel. Peter carefully removed the errant bit of metal with a cutting broach and all was well.
3) The lack of steam, which was my main concern, was traced to the burner. The burner was alight with a band of blue flame which I thought was OK. Peter took one look at it and immediately said it wasn't right. Removed the gas jet and it was totally clear. Replaced it and lit the burner again and this time it burnt with a totally different flame pattern. What you should have is a series of incandescent cone shapes.
As to why I was having this problem, what the cause was and how it was fixed, remains a mystery. All we could think was a piece of something had partly blocked the gas pipe inlet and by taking it off (to look through the gas jet) had removed it.
So, main problems solved and they turned out to be very minor indeed. It certainly helps to know what you're looking for especially when it comes to the burner's flame pattern.
The loco now runs and maintains steam pressure. Yes, it still does leak a bit of steam down the piston rods but I can live with that, its no different to how my Mk11's behaved. I may attempt to reduce this by either a bit of PTFE tape or an extra O ring, but it can wait.
A few snippet of info from while I was at Mamod:
* The burner of the Telford is some 30% more efficient than the Mk11. The extra heat was sufficient to damage the steam pipe from the lubricator when it was routed through the burner flame. The pipe now runs along the edge of the heat shield.
* The wheels of the Telford are identical to the MK11 but have different axles.
* The Telford's lubricator should be filled with 5mls of steam oil (the user manual isn't available yet).
Mike
1) Wobbly wheels were replaced with a new wheel set. Examination of the wobbly ones, once removed from the loco, showed the wobble was very slight, certainly not like the MSS problem posted on the forum recently.
2) The rough spot was found to be a tiny bit of metal in one hole of a coupling rod. It was catching on the inside of the circlip that retains the rods onto the crank pin and impossible to see once the circlip was in place. As it only caught the circlip when the wheel was to one side of its travel, you couldn't always feel it catching when you rotated the wheel. Peter carefully removed the errant bit of metal with a cutting broach and all was well.
3) The lack of steam, which was my main concern, was traced to the burner. The burner was alight with a band of blue flame which I thought was OK. Peter took one look at it and immediately said it wasn't right. Removed the gas jet and it was totally clear. Replaced it and lit the burner again and this time it burnt with a totally different flame pattern. What you should have is a series of incandescent cone shapes.
As to why I was having this problem, what the cause was and how it was fixed, remains a mystery. All we could think was a piece of something had partly blocked the gas pipe inlet and by taking it off (to look through the gas jet) had removed it.
So, main problems solved and they turned out to be very minor indeed. It certainly helps to know what you're looking for especially when it comes to the burner's flame pattern.
The loco now runs and maintains steam pressure. Yes, it still does leak a bit of steam down the piston rods but I can live with that, its no different to how my Mk11's behaved. I may attempt to reduce this by either a bit of PTFE tape or an extra O ring, but it can wait.
A few snippet of info from while I was at Mamod:
* The burner of the Telford is some 30% more efficient than the Mk11. The extra heat was sufficient to damage the steam pipe from the lubricator when it was routed through the burner flame. The pipe now runs along the edge of the heat shield.
* The wheels of the Telford are identical to the MK11 but have different axles.
* The Telford's lubricator should be filled with 5mls of steam oil (the user manual isn't available yet).
Mike
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mikewakefielduk@btinterne
- Fireman
- Posts: 309
- Joined: Wed Nov 28, 2012 1:43 pm
- Location: Shropshire
The rectangular part of burner is some 9 cm long. I'm assuming this is all topped by ceramic but haven't personally taken it out to check - Peter at Mamod did that today. The part containing the jet is about another 2cm, so the whole thing is roughly 11cm long with the gas pipe going into one end.
About 1 cm wide.
Hope this helps
Mike
About 1 cm wide.
Hope this helps
Mike
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mikewakefielduk@btinterne
- Fireman
- Posts: 309
- Joined: Wed Nov 28, 2012 1:43 pm
- Location: Shropshire
-
Chris Cairns
- Driver
- Posts: 2366
- Joined: Mon Oct 29, 2007 7:25 pm
- Location: Glasgow, Scotland
Mike,
Great to hear that your problems have been easily resolved, and it is certainly advantageous that you can visit the factory direct (a walk-on return rail fare for me would likely cost as much as the loco!).
Coupling Rods - As you will be aware the old Mamod SL & current MSS brass coupling rods are fitted with a washer either side. The IP Eng coupling rods are thicker and were not supplied with washers. The same applies to the current RWM Steam upgrade coupling rods. When I was having problems with my William & William II I ended up fitting washers to their coupling rods. I've just ordered a new supply so may consider fitting them to the rest of my oscillator fleet.
Ceramic Burners - We have had this discussion before. The Cheddar Models, PPS Steam & Bix ceramic burners were/are supplied with instructions explaining how to set up the correct gas/air mix (adjustable jet holder) and to get those cones on the top of the ceramic material. The Mamod burner effectively has no adjustment of the gas/air mix so the jet is held in a fixed position. My personal view is the jet holder is too loose a fit into the burner and the air leaking around the jet can cause problems - whilst I've had some serious blowbacks fortunately I have not melted the plastic/nylon gas pipe which has happened to others with the subsequent worrying fireball. So I wrap the jet with PTFE tape around the outside so it is a nice tight fit into the burner. I adopted the same method with my Regner Lumber Jack after having problems lighting it's burner.
Chris Cairns
Great to hear that your problems have been easily resolved, and it is certainly advantageous that you can visit the factory direct (a walk-on return rail fare for me would likely cost as much as the loco!).
Coupling Rods - As you will be aware the old Mamod SL & current MSS brass coupling rods are fitted with a washer either side. The IP Eng coupling rods are thicker and were not supplied with washers. The same applies to the current RWM Steam upgrade coupling rods. When I was having problems with my William & William II I ended up fitting washers to their coupling rods. I've just ordered a new supply so may consider fitting them to the rest of my oscillator fleet.
Ceramic Burners - We have had this discussion before. The Cheddar Models, PPS Steam & Bix ceramic burners were/are supplied with instructions explaining how to set up the correct gas/air mix (adjustable jet holder) and to get those cones on the top of the ceramic material. The Mamod burner effectively has no adjustment of the gas/air mix so the jet is held in a fixed position. My personal view is the jet holder is too loose a fit into the burner and the air leaking around the jet can cause problems - whilst I've had some serious blowbacks fortunately I have not melted the plastic/nylon gas pipe which has happened to others with the subsequent worrying fireball. So I wrap the jet with PTFE tape around the outside so it is a nice tight fit into the burner. I adopted the same method with my Regner Lumber Jack after having problems lighting it's burner.
I'm sure they will Doug (they sell 2 round burners & the scuttle burner on their website). I'll be able to get some proper measurements when my Thomas Telford arrives. Problem you may have is getting the correct spacing for the Mamod SL/MSS/RWM Janet chassis frames (the burners on the Mark I, II & Diamond Jubilee are fitted with spacing washers on their mounting screws), and your PPS (or whatever) jet holder may not fit properly into the Mamod burner venturi.dougrail wrote:Wonder if they'll sell'em separately...
Chris Cairns
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