Building an MSS Side Tank Loco Kit

[Chris Cairns]

This will be a very slow and progressive thread. What I will be doing is documenting the building of an MSS Side Tank Loco kit, but including those little fixes that are needed to the basic factory kit to produce a reasonable running locomotive. I'll also point out the differences between the MSS & SL1K kit as well - actually more than most people think.

On completion I will incorporate this 'diary' into the "MSS Locomotive Assembly Instructions" to produce a fully illustrated assembly instruction.

So the kit is provided in a large MSS logo'd box with 2 foam inserts containing all the components, together with 9 bags with various bolts, washers, etc. and of course the printed assembly instructions.

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(Unfortunately I took this photo after assembling the cylinders).

First thing to do is to check everything is present (this kit came from ebay) and I found I had 2 copies of one page of the instructions, but was missing another page instead. An e-mail to MSS got a PDF file of these instructions although it did not include the exploded diagrams (I've scanned these and cleaned them up for the files posted in the Reference Library).

LOCOMOTIVE ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
The success of this construction depends on the correct sequence of steps, therefore it is essential to read and follow these instructions in the stages listed. Essential tools – A small electrical screwdriver, a pair of small electrical pliers, a small pozidrive screwdriver. Desirable tools – 6 BA spanner (an ignition set from a motor accessory shop is ideal), small adjustable spanner.
The major parts are displayed in the front box or within the packaging and foam. All other items are in numbered bags (see Parts List). Before starting each stage ensure the appropriate components have been located. Right and left hand are when viewed from the rear of the model.

The list of tools will increase as I go along with this build so will need to keep editing it.

Additional tools

13/09/12 - a file for cleaning up the cylinder back plates, very fine Wet & Dry sandpaper plus a smooth surface for honing the cylinders and reverser valve, steam oil.

14/09/12 - a 1/8" or 3mm drill bit, a small circular file.

24/09/12 - Sharp knife or scalpel, Araldite Rapid Steel & clamps.

04/10/12 - 0.5mm oil resistant gasket material, optional 2nd spring & small washer for reverser valve rotating bolt.

Stage 1
CHASSIS ASSEMBLY/SUB ASSEMBLY – CYLINDER PORT FACE RIGHT
Small items for this stage are found in Bag 2.
Take the cylinder (item 1) and place on the port face (item 2). Fit the trunnion spring (item 5) over the bolt (item 4). Insert bolt and spring through the rear centre hole of the port face and screw tight into cylinder. Repeat for cylinder and port face left side.

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OK first the differences between the SL1K & MSS. The cylinder tube is one machined piece on the MSS (A1 in the photo below), on the SL1K the cylinder saddle is soldered to the tube (an area for manufacturing errors). The piston back plate has an extended boss on the MSS (A2 in the photo below) to reduce the steam leaks around this vulnerable area.

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These cylinders are the 'engine' of this loco so some careful cleaning up of these cylinders will increase performance. The circular cut-out in the middle of the back plate has machining burr (point B - both sides of the plate) which can be removed with a file. The faces at points D & C need careful honing. The piston is also very rough at this point so lots of lubricating oil on the piston rod plus sucking it into the 2 holes on the back of the cylinder, and gently working the piston in and out will bed it in.

I assemble the cylinder to the back plate using steam oil. And one last check (particularly for the SL1Ks) is to check the alignment of the steam and exhaust holes in the cylinder & back plates. I use a blunt needle for this, aligning one set of holes at one end by rotating the cylinder and checking the opposite set of holes line up as well.

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Chris Cairns.

[Chris Cairns]

FRAME AND CYLINDER ASSEMBLY RIGHT HAND
Small items for this stage are found in Bags 1 & 2.
Take 1 gasket (item 3) and fit to rear of the cylinder and port face assembly. Place on frame (item 7) locating the bolt and spring through the hole. Align the screw holes and fit 5/16” long brass screws (item 28 ) and nuts (item 26) through the two rear holes and secure to frame.

So the next change between the MSS & SL1K is the gaskets. The SL1K used a brown/red fibre gasket and for the 'O' gauge model 2 gaskets were fitted with each cylinder assembly (4 gaskets fitted with the '1' gauge model - MSS now supply a spacer back plate with the '1' gauge model). The MSS gasket is a far superior quality gasket and only one is fitted per cylinder assembly.

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So I fit the gasket to the cylinder back plate using the bolts to check how the cut-outs line up with the steam/exhaust ports. This example is actually very good - I use a small circular file to make sure the ports are clear.

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For the chassis frame I drill the steam ports out using a 1/8" or 3mm drill. Again after fitting the gasket using some bolts I can now see where the gasket cut-outs need adjusting with the circular file.

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The instructions are missing the following line at the end of the above quoted portion -

Repeat for frame and cylinder assembly left hand.

Chris Cairns.

[Chris Cairns]

Build delayed awaiting arrival of some tool items.

WHEEL AND MAINFRAME ASSEMBLY
Small items for this stage are in Bags 1 & 3.
Take both frame and cylinder assemblies and place back to back. Take the leading axle assemblies (item 54) (long crank pins) and slide the axles into the front slots ensuring brass bearings are outside the frames.
Repeat with the trailing axle assembly (item 55) (short crank pins) and fit to the rear slots.
Pull the frames apart; this will locate bearing bushes into the location holes. Fit the spacer (item in between the side frames with two 3/16” short brass screws (item 6).

So the next change between the MSS & the SL1K is the wheels. On the SL1K the wheel crankpins are punched to the wheel using a centre punch, whilst on the MSS they are punched using a pin punch.

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Red wheel is from an SL loco, whereas the black wheel is from the MSS.

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As well as crankpins working loose, the other problem with the 'wobbly wheels' is that the brass bearings are just held in the chassis frame cut-outs and have a lot of freedom to move or rotate.

So I looked into how to fix these brass bearings in the chassis. I removed the paint around the cut-out holes then tried fixing the bearings with loctite (no success) followed by soldering (also a failure). After reading a review of a product elsewhere on-line I've fitted them to the chassis using Araldite Rapid Steel to see if that will stand up to the oil, heat & water.

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Chris Cairns.

[Chris Cairns]

Build delayed awaiting return of camera.

REVERSING VALVE ASSEMBLY
Small items for this stage in Bags 1, 4 & 9 (Gauge ‘O’).
Take reversing block (item 12) and insert 2 small ‘O’ rings (item 13) into the counter-bored holes in the rear. Fit the spring (item 17) on to the large reverse lever bolt ( item 18 ). Pass the bolt through the centre hole in the retainer plate (item 14) and through the rear centre holes of the reversing block and screw into the reversing lever (item 11) ensuring alignment in the retainer plate with the rubber ‘O’ rings. Do not fully tighten the bolt at this stage.

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The reverser/regulator valve is an important part of the engine so the rough machining requires cleaning up. I chamfer the holes on the side of the valve out to 1/8" or 3mm to match up with the enlarged steam holes on the chassis frames. Both sides and the front face of the valve need honing to reduce steam leaks, and similarly the rotating lever back face requires honing. It is also recommended to fit a 2nd spring & washer to the retaining bolt to help further reduce any steam leaks.

Take the reversing valve assembly and secure to the main frame end using four 5/16” long brass screws ( item 28 ) locate in the front cylinder port face assembly holes. When done, check that both front and rear cylinder screws are tight. If building in Gauge ‘1’ use four longer screws. These will be found in Bag 3.

I fit the reverser block to the chassis frames using 0.5mm oil resistant gasket material.

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Chris Cairns.

[Chris Cairns]

WHEEL AND COUPLING ROD ASSEMBLY
Small items for this stage in Bag 4.
Place one s/steel washer (item 20) over leading and trailing crank pins on the wheels, then place a coupling rod (item 21) over the pins. Place each of the remaining s/steel washers over the pins and secure in position with four circlips (item 22). Spring out piston ends to go over the leading pins on the front wheels. Revolve wheels to ensure a free motion.

So the next change between the MSS & the SL1K is the washers used. The SL1K uses black washers, whereas the MSS uses stainless steel washers.

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Chris Cairns.

[Chris Cairns]

EXHAUST AND STEAM PIPE
Small items for this stage in Bag 4.
Check that the end of the pipe is burr free, and smooth if necessary.
Take the exhaust pipe (item 15) and place ‘O’ ring (item 13) approx. 6 mm (1/4”) down the long length of the pipe. Put a spot of oil or fairy liquid on the opposite end and push into the ‘O’ ring on the right hand side of the reversing block (item 12). This is a tight fit and care must be taken not to damage the ‘O’ ring. It may be necessary to further slacken reverse bolt, to ease pipes into ‘O’ ring. Next take the steam pipe and locate in the ‘O’ ring on the left hand side of the block, with the long end pointing upwards. Now fully tighten reverse bolt which will secure a seal around pipes.

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As supplied the steam pipe is only bent in one axis. By bending the Z bend section sideways as well this will get the maximum benefit from any superheat generated by keeping the steam pipe within the flames from the burner.

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(edit) I do not fully tighten the reverse bolt at this stage, but wait until the loco is fully assembled.

Chris Cairns.

[Chris Cairns]

Stage 2
SIDE TANK AND CAB FITTINGS
Small items for this stage in Bag 1.
Take the cab (item 37) and fix right hand side tank (item 36) to the hole above the lugs in the front of the cab. Fix with a short screw (item 6) and nut (item 26). Repeat operation for left hand side tank take two further screws (item 6) and nuts (item 26) and secure into bottom holes in cab.

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I found most of the mounting holes were too small to fit the 6BA screws into, so they required a little reaming out first.

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Chris Cairns.

PS - The next installment will be delayed as I modify/improve the boiler.

[Chris Cairns]

BOILER AND CAB ASSEMBLY
Small items for this stage in Bags 1, 5 & 6.
Take combustion chamber (item 33) and insert between the side tanks and secure to the cab with two 3/16” short screws (item 6) and nuts (item 26) using the formed lugs. Take whistle valve assembly (item 47) and fit an ally washer (item 34) to thread end. Place ( item 48 ) bracket over the thread end and then another ally washer and secure to boiler (item 32). Fit top lever (item 46) with brass screw ( item 28 ) and nut (item 26). Only after the boiler has been located to the cab assembly. Slide the boiler into the combustion chamber, this is a tight fit and it may be necessary to clear any excess paint, ensuring that the side tank lugs nest in the slot between the boiler and the front smokebox casting, and that the whistle lever locates into the cab. Secure both side tanks to the front end with two black pozidrive screws (item 49).
Fit the sight glass ‘O’ ring (item 39) into the inner rim of the boiler end which will form a gasket.
Place the sight glass (item 40) on top of the ‘O’ ring, then carefully fit the sight glass gauge (item 42) over the glass, and secure with two 3/16” short screws (item 6). It is essential that great care is taken over this operation to ensure a steam tight seal. It is advisable to hold the Backhead/Sight gauge firmly in position with your thumb, and screw down each screw one turn at a time.

So the next differences between the MSS and the SL1K is the lack of a reflector on the MSS loco, and the rings used on the lever to operate the whistle. I have a strange circular and holed alloy plate inside my MSS Saddle Tank which sort of acts like a reflector. Wonder why the reflector was omitted from the MSS Kit as it helps to see the important water level on these locos. On the SL1K it had a metal wire fitting holding a key ring type ring onto the whistle lever, whereas the MSS has 3 smaller key ring type rings interconnected onto the whistle lever.

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Again I found all the mounting holes for the combustion chamber were too small requiring some reaming out. I also recommend trying to fit the boiler into the combustion chamber now to see where it needs trimming. On this build I had to remove part of the combustion chamber front face at the top around both sides of the boiler cut-out to allow it to slide in without scrapping all the paint, and the combustion chamber needed careful fitting to the cab front to allow the back of the boiler to slide through OK.

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The boiler is another weakness of these locos particularly if you are going to upgrade with a higher pressure safety valve and a meths or gas burner. This is due to the way they are made using solder paste. No blowtorch is used to secure those fittings into the boiler so they can work loose (a common problem with the steam chest nut insert as discussed on this Forum). Watch this video from 1:08 to see the method used for these boilers - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V9c83qO08HM The weakness of the solder fillet on the bottom of the boiler securing the pipe through which the steam pipe passes is another common problem particularly as it is in the path of the middle wick of a 3 wick meths burner, or within the heat of a gas burner. This is clearer to understand in this diagram from the late Peter Longfils.

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I normally do this repair on a boiler which has been fully paint stripped so it was a little tricky getting the solder to hold by only removing a small amount of paint around this pipe on this boiler.

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It also means you will need to open out the slot on the bottom of the boiler cut-out on the front of the combustion chamber to allow this extra solder to slide through OK.

I dislike the pozidrive screws used to secure the side tanks & boiler to the smokebox (they work loose after taking the loco apart a few times) so I solder 6BA nuts to the inside of the boiler and use 6BA screws for a secure fit. Unfortunately I forgot that poor quality control affects the alignment of the holes in the boiler, so on fitting this loco together I now have a tilted boiler - I'll need to ream out the holes on the smokebox casting to allow this boiler to sit vertically correct.

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The instructions have not been written in the correct order for fitting the whistle lever as those 3 rings are very difficult to get through the cab front if it is fitted to the whistle first. So this lever should be fitted through the cab front after the boiler has been slid through the cab front.

I also dislike the 'O' ring used to seal the sight glass plastic to the boiler. I normally use the oval rubber seal that the current Mamod supply with their sight glass replacement kits but I'll use the 'O' ring with this build. On this boiler I had to clean off a solder blob on the boiler rear cut-out face, then I smoothed up the back face of the sight glass gauge (I've had a metal burr here on a Mamod SL3 which ended up cracking the sight glass plastic).

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Chris Cairns.

(edited to post the correct last photo without the cab handrails fitted).

[Chris Cairns]

CAB ROOF AND CAB BACK ASSEMBLY
Small items for this stage in Bags 1 & 7.
Locate two grab rails (item 41) through the tank sides and cab and secure with four nuts (item 51).
Fit the other two grab rails (item 41) to the cab back (item 43) in the same way.
Fit two 3/16” short screws (item 6) and two nuts (item 26) to the underside of the cab.
Take the roof clip (item 45) and screw to the underside of the roof (item 44) with two black screws (item 61) and nuts (item 60).
Ensure that the roof clip tags face downwards and towards the rear of the cab. Then fit the roof to the cab with four black screws (item 61) and nuts (item 60).

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Care needs to be taken with these cab handrails as they are cast and it is easy to strip the threads. Before fitting take the handrails and carefully screw a 5BA nut on each screw thread to clean up the paint overspray. Then after fitting the handrails make sure the nut is on centrally and carefully screw it up - DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE NUT AS IT WILL STRIP THE THREADS.

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Fit two 3/16” short screws (item 6) and two nuts (item 26) to the underside of the cab. This is a mistake in the instructions as that action has already been covered in Stage 2 SIDE TANKS AND CAB FITTINGS above.

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Chris Cairns.

[Chris Cairns]

The Final Assembly is a bit involved so it will be posted in stages rather than one huge posting.

FINAL ASSEMBLY
Small items for this stage in bags 1, 5 & 8.
Take the chassis assembly and cab assembly, and carefully feed the cab assembly over the steam and exhaust pipes, at the same time locating the reversing lever in its slot at the front of the smoke box. This operating can best be done by holding the cab assembly at approx. 45 degrees to the chassis and offering the cab over the pipes and reversing lever.

Finally, ensure correct location by pressing with both thumbs on the underside of the chassis by the base of the reversing block, squarely fixing the side frames to the outside of the casting tags.

Fit two 3/16” short brass crews (item 6) to the holes in front of the cylinder port faces, to secure the side frames to the casting. This may prove a little difficult. It is best to dip the screw driver into grease or vaseline to make the screw adhere to the screw driver.

I've never put together a Mamod or MSS in this manner before and a fellow enthusiast was also eager to hear how it worked out. So what I did was to rest the boiler & cab assembly upside down on its roof/chimney, fed the steam pipe into the bottom of the boiler, then tilted the chassis to get the operating lever of the reverser valve on the inside of the smokebox. Then located the exhaust pipe into the smokebox and pushed down on the steam pipe and chassis to slid it down onto the smokebox checking the cab assembly ends up on the outside of the chassis frames, and the chassis frames end up on the outside of the smokebox tags. Moving the pipes was made easier as I have not fully tightened up the reverser bolt yet.

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Take care fitting the short brass screws to the smokebox as the threads are just cut into the casting so easy to strip. In fact on this kit the screws are a loose fit into the smokebox and will need a bit of threadlock when the loco is fully run-in.

Take the drag beam (item 9) and fit to the rear of the side frames. Fit buffer beam (item 10) and buffer stock (item 24) and buffers (item 25) (bag 5) with nuts (items 26), then fit the coupling link (bag 5) by prising open (such as with a key ring) and feed onto the bottom section of the coupling bracket. Also fit the second set to the front of the smoke box. Fit two short brass screws (item 6) to secure the side frames to the drag beam. Then two 3/16” short brass screws (item 6) and nuts (item 26) to secure the cab to each side frame.

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Again take care fitting the short brass screws to the drag beam as it is another casting. If you intend fitting an after market 3 wick meths burner then the screws holding the side frames to the drag beam, and the screws securing the cab to the side frames will need trimming so the meths burner can fit inside the side frames. You can see how these screws protrude in this photo below.

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Chris Cairns.

[Chris Cairns]

Final Assembly (cont'd)
Fit a small ‘O’ ring (Item 13) over the steam pipe which protrudes through the top of the boiler followed by the brass washer (item 52). Locate the bronze spring (item 29) on top of the washer. Take dome (item 31) and screw into the boiler. With a spanner or adjustable spanner, tighten, but do not over tighten as this will result in breaking the solder joint. Items for this stage in bag 8.
Fit safety valve (item 35) into boiler.
Locate the burner tray under the boiler, between the frames, from inside the cab.
Locate the cab back (item 43) into the slots at the back of the cab and roof clip.
Locate reversing lever protecting cover (item 62) over reversing lever (item 11).

So a couple of more changes between the MSS & the SL1K kits. The story goes that the tool was lost for forming the brass dome, so MSS take the steam dome and turn the outside into a brass dome. It has the same inside dimensions as the SL1K one and gives the MSS it's unique look. Believe it or not but in the SL1K kit Mamod did not use a brass washer on top of the 'O' ring fitted to the steam pipe inside the steam dome.

The handle on the solid fuel burner trays differs between the MSS & SL1K (I'll cover these later).

And MSS introduced a nice protecting rubber cover for the reverser lever to save burning your fingers!

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So trying to fit the solid fuel burner tray highlighted another poor quality control problem. When I tried fitting the tray it was a tight springing fit between the drag beam and the rear face of the combustion chamber, so the front of the tray was being pushed up against the steam pipe. To get the tray to sit level I had to trim some metal off the 2 side frames of the burner under the handle. And then I found an interesting fact. The MSS handle is shorter than the Mamod one.

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The tab on the front of the cab back does not even reach the burner handle so is ineffective at holding the tray in place.

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Although the Mamod burner handle is longer in fact it is not really held down by this tab either but at least the burner tray will not vibrate loose.

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And the completed loco without the cab back fitted.

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So quality control has left me with a few extra spares: -

1 x Smokebox handle & pozidrive screw - I've been through the instructions several times and MSS have missed out fitting this handle in their instructions.

6 x 6BA brass nuts - the kit requires 17 brass nuts and they are all fitted (honest!).

1 x Fibre Washer (same as used on the safety valve which has one fitted).

1 x Stainless Steel coupling washer. Kit requires 8 to be fitted (and they are all there).

2 x Buffer Beams (a welcome bonus).

And the kit is also supplied with a coupling hook, a bottle of lubricating oil, a box of 20 Solid Fuel tablets and a funnel. Plus of course the instructions with 1 page duplicated and another page missing!

Next I will scan the old Mamod Railway instructions to get a diagram of the loco oiling points, and the boiler will need flushing out (I will be using a water/vinegar mix and not washing up liquid as suggested by MSS).

The intention is to fire up the loco using solid fuel for the running-in process to see how successful that will be.

Chris Cairns.

[Chris Cairns]

AS A FINAL CHECK
1) Oil all moving parts, piston rods, port faces, reverse lever, wheel bearings and bushes.
2) Make sure all screws and nuts are tight.
3) Revolve wheels with palm of hand to make sure everything is in order.

It would have been easy enough for MSS to include a diagram of the oiling points like Mamod did with their instructions.

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Steam Oil.
1. Push the pivot bolt forward against the spring to get steam oil between the rotating valve and block face of the reverser.
2. Push the pivot bolts out against the springs to get steam oil on the cylinder block faces.
3. Extend the piston rod to full travel then place steam oil on the rod around the cylinder end cap.

Lubricating Oil.
4. Oil the axles on both sides of the bearings.
5. Oil the crank pins.

I now fully tighten the pivot bolt on the reverser to seal the steam & exhaust pipes with the 'O' rings, using a small ring 6BA spanner.

With the bearings fixed to the chassis with Araldite Rapid Steel the wheels are very free running.

BEFORE STARTING ENGINE, CAREFUL STUDY OF THE INSTRUCTIONS BELOW IS ESSENTIAL, IF YOU ARE TO OBTAIN SATISFACTORY PERFORMANCE. PLEASE REMEMBER YOU HAVE BUILT AN ENGINE AND ENGINES NEED LOTS OF OIL AND CAREFUL RUNNING IN.
DURING THE FIRST FEW RUNS, WATER CONSUMPTION IS NORMALLY EXCESSIVE AND MAY ISSUE BACK THROUGH CYLINDER AND OTHER FACES. THIS WILL REDUCE AS UNIT SETTLES DOWN.

Boiler Cleaning: The boiler must be thoroughly washed out before running a new engine. Remove safety valve, half fill boiler with hot water and add a few drops of washing up liquid. Replace valve and shake vigorously for 30 seconds. Remove valve and empty contents (depress whistle lever to allow water to escape freely). Repeat several times, using hot water only, until all trace of soldering deposits are removed.

To clean the boiler I fill the boiler to about 2/3rds of the normal level with 50% water & 50% vinegar. With the safety valve and steam dome removed I then use some old solid fuel to bring this mix to the boil several times (removing the burner each time to stop this mix bubbling out of the boiler). I then allow it to cool a bit and shake the boiler vigorously for a short period and shake out this mix. I then fill the boiler with hot water and shake out the remaining debris. This took about 12 refills on this boiler before no more solder deposits were removed.

Handling: Please note that most parts of the loco will be too hot to touch with bare hands while raising steam and soon after running. It is advisable to place the loco on track for filling and lighting, to avoid excess handling. If handling the loco while hot, it must be held by the cab roof at the rear and with the coupling ring at the front.

Boiler Filling: Remove cab back by depressing catch and withdrawing to the rear, to allow access to the burner and boiler sight glass. Remove safety valve and using the funnel, fill boiler with hot water to MAX on the sight glass.

I now need to clean up my video studio (the kitchen!) before I can record the first steaming on blocks of this loco.

Chris Cairns.

[Narrow Minded]

I know I'm interupting the thread, but I can't resist commenting any longer.
This has got to be the "Haynes Manual" of the Mamod/MSS loco and you deserve a standing ovation for the job you've done!
 :wav:  :wav:

[Catweasel]

Surely this deserves archiving in the reference section. Incredible amount of very detailed,valuable info. Very well done.

[Chris Cairns]

Thank you for the kind comments. Whilst this Topic has been getting a lot of viewing it has been great that no-one had replied until at least the build up was complete. It is my intention to add my photos, tweeks & corrections to the original MSS instructions and make it available as an illustrated PDF file for those that wish a copy.

Firing: Use only MSS solid fuel with this engine. Remove burner tray by lifting and withdrawing to the rear. Break or cut one tablet and place both halves into the burner tray. Light tablet from the front end and hold burner at an angle, to allow the rear half to ignite. Slide burner tray under the boiler by guiding front tags into slots and clip rear end, into the cab floor. The cab back must be securely replaced before running.

Starting: Allow about 2 minutes to raise steam. Water will appear around the cylinders and steam will issue from the chimney (control lever open). A gentle push in the required direction will set the loco in motion. Water consumption may be excessive during initial running, due to priming. The water level must be checked carefully and if the water level falls to the ‘MIN’ mark on the sight glass, the burner must be removed immediately. It is recommended that distilled water be used for the boiler in hard water areas.

Running In: As with any engine, the best performance will only be achieved after a period of running in. While the loco is new, performance may be sluggish and several runs will be required before full power is achieved. Water loss around the cylinders and reverse valve (priming) will only cease when the unit is fully
run in.

Priming: This is characteristic of most steam engines. This is water loss through the cylinder or reversing face. It is quite normal during early runs and varies with each unit. This will gradually reduce as the unit settles in. Careful observation of the instructions, lubrication in particular is essential.

Lubrication: Axles, crankpins, cylinder faces, piston rods and valve face must be well oiled, before each run. The piston rods and cylinder faces should be oiled occasionally, during each run. MSS steam oil is recommended.

Control: Excessive speed will result in derailment and careful use of the speed control is essential to avoid this. Speed and direction is controlled by the lever at the front of the loco. With the lever in a vertical position (off) no steam is admitted to the cylinders. Moving the lever to the right (as seen from the front) gives forward direction and to the left, backwards. Movement of this lever gives progressively more steam to the cylinders and thus more speed. Due to the many variables of load and conditions, familiarization with the control lever setting is required to give the steadiest performance.

Boiler Specification: Volume: 120 cc. Maximum operating pressure: 0.7 bar. The above operating instructions must be followed, if you are to obtain the best performance, from your locomotive.

Whistle: The whistle should not be used during the first two minutes of running. Frequent and prolonged use of the whistle results in reduced steam to the cylinders.

Safety:

DO NOT  hold down the safety valve or tamper with it in any way.

DO NOT  remove the safety valve while there may still be pressure in the boiler. (Release remaining steam by operating the whistle).

DO NOT  overfill the burner or boiler.

DO NOT allow the loco to run at excessive speed, which may cause derailment. This model is designed for adults and outdoor use and because fire and boiling water is in use due care must be taken at all times.

DO ensure that a suitable metal container is at hand to place the burner tray that may have unused burning fuel. This locomotive is for outside use only.

I leave the cab back off during intial running-in sessions to keep a close eye on the water level.

I cut the solid fuel tablet in 2 using a model making saw, and add a couple of drops of meths on top of each piece of tablet to make it easier to lit up.

You are now expecting a video or report on my first running session. Whilst I did get the loco to run forward on blocks without the expected priming (my boiler flushing worked out OK) it did have a couple of problems. One I was expecting and the other one I did recall thinking will that be a problem during the build.

But you will have to stay tuned whilst the loco cools down and I correct these problems. At least I can practise my commentary again!!

Chris Cairns.

[Chris Cairns]

Thanks for waiting. It was a long night last night and took sometime to upload my video on YouTube. So here it is.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KYQ0w6eqIoI

I'll let you all watch it before I post a bit more about the problems I experienced.

Chris Cairns.

[Chris Cairns]

So the 2 problems I suffered during this 1st steaming.

1. Screws used to hold the roof clip to the underside of the roof are too long thus keeping tension on the whistle operating lever and so the whistle is stuck open.

Another example of poor quality control. On the Mamod SL1K kit these screws were black 6BA x 3/16" long. For the MSS kit they should be black M3 x 3/16" long but the ones supplied with my kit are 5/16" long. An MSS Basic Fastener Pack that I obtained from Dream Steam also has these 5/16" long screws.

Probably not a lot of builders find this problem as the first thing to go on the loco is the whistle to be replaced by a higher pressure safety valve or a boiler mounted regulator 'T' piece.

2. A leaky sight glass seal. The 'O' ring that the old Mamod & MSS use for this seal is too small in thickness to get an effective seal and if you do get one to work eventually you will melt a groove on the sight glass plastic as it is pushed up against the boiler which gets very hot when meths or gas fired. So I use the oval rubber seals that the current Mamod sell in their sight glass replacement kits or their washer packs, and you can also use the thicker rectangular sight glass plastic with some careful trimming although the screws used by MSS to fix the sight glass gauge are too small for this thicker plastic (I have plenty of the oval sight glass plastics as spares). In fact if you look closely at the oval seal I showed in the video it is actually too big for this boiler and when I tightened it up the oval seal started to compress into the middle of the sight glass so I had to use another one which fitted better. This sight glass is basically the secondary boiler safety valve and when they fail during model exhibitions it can be spectacular.

Chris Cairns.

[Narrow Minded]

Bravo!
Very impressed by the format and presentation of the video - especially when it would have been so easy to "sort" those 2 problems and leave them on the cutting room floor!
Instead, you've highlighted a couple of build issues and their remedies, as well as showing how your methodical build results in a "really useful engine"

Considering my earlier comment about this thread being The Haynes Equivalent, any thoughts of extending it to cover the usual failings & fixes????

[dougrail]

Agreed, what NM said

[Spule 4]

Considering my earlier comment about this thread being The Haynes Equivalent, any thoughts of extending it to cover the usual failings & fixes????

Hmm, Mamod Haynes manual.

Maybe we could get Terry Davey to draw the cut-away Mamod for the cover like in the old days!

Anyhow....

I also worked hard and resisted replying to Chris' thread until "done".

There are a lot of us that have "punch lists" of simple Mamod improvements and modifications that do need to be written down, everything from assembly tips to actual physical modifications.

I really need to dig out some of the stuff from the US here in the 1980s, there were a few Mamod lone wolves that were doing some simple improvements.

For example, if you have a leaky sight glass, use some High Tack on the O ring for the sight glass, it works wonders!

http://www.permatex.com/products/automo ... ealant.htm

I also use it for the steam line going into the reverser and the reverser to frames. But for that joint, I actually like Chris' paper gaskets better!