And because it was cooler I had visible steam, (not by British standards I know!) if you look very closely.
Two log empties for Warringine.
And two general goods for Nayook.(Note steam, you had to be quick!!)
The Leawarra Nayook Railway
Friday Morning Goods
Well it rained here all yesterday, but today before the humidity got up too much, I steamed the Lumberjack on a goods train.
And because it was cooler I had visible steam, (not by British standards I know!) if you look very closely.
Two log empties for Warringine.
And two general goods for Nayook.(Note steam, you had to be quick!!)
And because it was cooler I had visible steam, (not by British standards I know!) if you look very closely.
Two log empties for Warringine.
And two general goods for Nayook.(Note steam, you had to be quick!!)
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Peter Butler
- Driver
- Posts: 5243
- Joined: Sun Sep 09, 2012 10:33 pm
- Location: West Wales
The goods stock and guards van are all scratch built, mostly on fox truck type bogies, with chopper couplings. The bogie log trucks have silver soldered steel archbars, and timber frames.
My early builds in this scale tended to be belts and braces style. I had doubts (soon dispelled) about whitemetal from a strength point of view. I've adopted a standard underframe now, of aluminium angle, with timber bodies.
I do have three pass. cars much modified from Bachmann Jackson Sharp cars. They appear in an earlier pic.
The louvre van was made by using an adaption of a fence and table I made that screws to my router. It's what I use to turn a 3/4' thick board into a weatherboard wall as seen on two of the buildings at Nayook. The fence runs off the preceding board, so I can get a bit of sag if I want. Vertical channels sawn in for the vertical battens on the sides of the van. Door hardware and so on.
The open wagon, one of two, has opening and removeable sides, and ends, a foam load with a tarp from khaki material, tied with sixteen scale sheep shank knots tied with tweezers. As I've said elsewhere, you don't have to be mad, but it helps.
Grant.
My early builds in this scale tended to be belts and braces style. I had doubts (soon dispelled) about whitemetal from a strength point of view. I've adopted a standard underframe now, of aluminium angle, with timber bodies.
I do have three pass. cars much modified from Bachmann Jackson Sharp cars. They appear in an earlier pic.
The louvre van was made by using an adaption of a fence and table I made that screws to my router. It's what I use to turn a 3/4' thick board into a weatherboard wall as seen on two of the buildings at Nayook. The fence runs off the preceding board, so I can get a bit of sag if I want. Vertical channels sawn in for the vertical battens on the sides of the van. Door hardware and so on.
The open wagon, one of two, has opening and removeable sides, and ends, a foam load with a tarp from khaki material, tied with sixteen scale sheep shank knots tied with tweezers. As I've said elsewhere, you don't have to be mad, but it helps.
Grant.
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Peter Butler
- Driver
- Posts: 5243
- Joined: Sun Sep 09, 2012 10:33 pm
- Location: West Wales
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Soar Valley Light
- Driver
- Posts: 1451
- Joined: Sun Dec 08, 2013 5:18 pm
- Location: North West Leicestershire
Thanks for your comments, and if it's inspiring that's great, but Graeme (GTB of this forum) is the one for museum quality detail in my book. Mind you Peter, those log bogies you did back on page 40 of your railway were a superb weathering effort. Weathered timber is made up of many colours, and you've certainly nailed it there.
My stock is all working stock and has done many miles over time, it needs to be strongly built, with enough detail to suggest reality. I'm also a great believer in weathering. Some wagons have considerable paint missing from working surfaces, timber wear, rust and general grime. All part of them being seen "in" the landscape rather than on it.
My stock is all working stock and has done many miles over time, it needs to be strongly built, with enough detail to suggest reality. I'm also a great believer in weathering. Some wagons have considerable paint missing from working surfaces, timber wear, rust and general grime. All part of them being seen "in" the landscape rather than on it.
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IrishPeter
- Driver
- Posts: 1400
- Joined: Wed Feb 23, 2011 3:24 am
- Location: 'Boro, VA
Yes Ric, raised them by about 15mm if I remember correctly. Many of our pass cars were repaired along the bottom edges with tin sheathing (well that's my excuse and I'm sticking to it!) also lengthened the end platforms and new railings, cut the clerestory short, and changed bogie spacing and end doors. The pic. shows a visiting Jackson Sharpe coupled to one of mine showing the difference.
After building my first loco I needed pass cars quickly as you do when starting off, and these got me a train for the first GSSU.
After building my first loco I needed pass cars quickly as you do when starting off, and these got me a train for the first GSSU.
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Soar Valley Light
- Driver
- Posts: 1451
- Joined: Sun Dec 08, 2013 5:18 pm
- Location: North West Leicestershire
A neat mod. Also, it's quite remarkable how lengthening the balcony and shortening the clerestory makes so much difference.LNR:116985 wrote:Yes Ric, raised them by about 15mm if I remember correctly. Many of our pass cars were repaired along the bottom edges with tin sheathing (well that's my excuse and I'm sticking to it!) also lengthened the end platforms and new railings, cut the clerestory short, and changed bogie spacing and end doors. The pic. shows a visiting Jackson Sharpe coupled to one of mine showing the difference.
After building my first loco I needed pass cars quickly as you do when starting off, and these got me a train for the first GSSU.
Rik
Have you had one of those days where everything just goes right! Well I've just had one 
I've been experimenting with the front end of my Bagnall. I'ts always been a wet engine, so I decided to experiment with a chuffer, not to make the chuff louder, but more to re-direct the wet and oily part of the exhaust.
After quite a few tries I achieved a good combination of sound with minimum loss of power ( it actually appears to have broadened the torque band ) etched and painted it on Saturday and have been dying to try it.
So today I made up a heavy train and had a perfect run. The engine shunts really well, and even after a short station stop, is totally oil and water free. No more constantly wiping it down. I'd washed the engine in preparation for this run, and it's totally clean after a morning and an afternoon run. Very happy
I've been experimenting with the front end of my Bagnall. I'ts always been a wet engine, so I decided to experiment with a chuffer, not to make the chuff louder, but more to re-direct the wet and oily part of the exhaust. After quite a few tries I achieved a good combination of sound with minimum loss of power ( it actually appears to have broadened the torque band ) etched and painted it on Saturday and have been dying to try it.
So today I made up a heavy train and had a perfect run. The engine shunts really well, and even after a short station stop, is totally oil and water free. No more constantly wiping it down. I'd washed the engine in preparation for this run, and it's totally clean after a morning and an afternoon run. Very happy
PROOF!
Just for you Keith, blowing a bit of a gale but I steamed up the loco again today. Lighter train, but once again no mess. Don't know
if this shows it "no mess Charlie"
Like I said, black thing in a black hole.
After running bunker first back to Leawarra, the smokebox and frontplate would usually be spattered with fine oil and water.
Just for you Keith, blowing a bit of a gale but I steamed up the loco again today. Lighter train, but once again no mess. Don't know
if this shows it "no mess Charlie"
Like I said, black thing in a black hole.
After running bunker first back to Leawarra, the smokebox and frontplate would usually be spattered with fine oil and water.
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