The Bayfields Light Railway
The Bayfields Light Railway
Its been a while since I have posted anything, but finally I have something to post about!
Some of you may remember my previous railway, The Woodside Light Railway, which is in my parents garden. This was a 45mm line using LGB track. This line is still there, but has been shortened for ease of use.
After moving out, it was time for a new start. I also decided to use 32mm track for cost, look, scale and so more people could visit with their trains.
We moved in to our new house last May, and obviously the most important task was to build the garden railway...
The garden is modest sized, with a shed and large summer house that we wanted to keep. I always liked the idea of the track going around the outside of the lawn, however this would cross access to the lawn and summer house, so I knew removable sections would have to be made.
Firstly, I needed a base to operate from. The shed was watertight and in good condition, it just needed a facelift. A quick email to the Mid-Hants Railway secured me the correct paint codes for the Southern Railway green and cream and I was able to get this mixed at the local DIY shop.
I decided to build the yard/station and steam up area first. Investing in a cement mixer was a good idea! This was my second atempt at bricklaying! The outer walls were then filled with hardcore and a concrete top put on. This gave a nice flat area to lay track and build platforms.
Track laying begins. I have used peco track thoughout, with the larger radius points for the running line and the 38" radius for the sidings. The track is screwed down using small rawl plugs into the concrete. I needed an SDS drill for this, which was another good investment.
With track down and platforms cast I was able to ballast the track using 3mm joining aggregate and quick setting cement. A quick photo shoot followed.
After much thought, I decided to use Filcris for the rest of the trackbed. This will eventually be hidden by earthworks and rockery.
At the same time, the shed gained some more railway items!
Almost a full circuit, working anti-clockwise around the lawn. Using post-fix to set the posts really helped as this set in about 20 minutes. I could lay about 6 posts a day working on my own.
The left side of the lawn was laid only a week ago. The filcris has been very easy to work with, and quick too. I have read stories of the material expanding in the summer months, however some people have had no issues. Only time will tell on this, however I have left gaps for expansion and it will all be buried in a few months anyway.
The point will eventually lead to the quarry siding.
And to bring us up to date, the first steam train to make it around the garden!
Plenty more still to do, but I feel I have reached a major milestone in getting the track down. Now to make it all look pretty!
Some of you may remember my previous railway, The Woodside Light Railway, which is in my parents garden. This was a 45mm line using LGB track. This line is still there, but has been shortened for ease of use.
After moving out, it was time for a new start. I also decided to use 32mm track for cost, look, scale and so more people could visit with their trains.
We moved in to our new house last May, and obviously the most important task was to build the garden railway...
The garden is modest sized, with a shed and large summer house that we wanted to keep. I always liked the idea of the track going around the outside of the lawn, however this would cross access to the lawn and summer house, so I knew removable sections would have to be made.
Firstly, I needed a base to operate from. The shed was watertight and in good condition, it just needed a facelift. A quick email to the Mid-Hants Railway secured me the correct paint codes for the Southern Railway green and cream and I was able to get this mixed at the local DIY shop.
I decided to build the yard/station and steam up area first. Investing in a cement mixer was a good idea! This was my second atempt at bricklaying! The outer walls were then filled with hardcore and a concrete top put on. This gave a nice flat area to lay track and build platforms.
Track laying begins. I have used peco track thoughout, with the larger radius points for the running line and the 38" radius for the sidings. The track is screwed down using small rawl plugs into the concrete. I needed an SDS drill for this, which was another good investment.
With track down and platforms cast I was able to ballast the track using 3mm joining aggregate and quick setting cement. A quick photo shoot followed.
After much thought, I decided to use Filcris for the rest of the trackbed. This will eventually be hidden by earthworks and rockery.
At the same time, the shed gained some more railway items!
Almost a full circuit, working anti-clockwise around the lawn. Using post-fix to set the posts really helped as this set in about 20 minutes. I could lay about 6 posts a day working on my own.
The left side of the lawn was laid only a week ago. The filcris has been very easy to work with, and quick too. I have read stories of the material expanding in the summer months, however some people have had no issues. Only time will tell on this, however I have left gaps for expansion and it will all be buried in a few months anyway.
The point will eventually lead to the quarry siding.
And to bring us up to date, the first steam train to make it around the garden!
Plenty more still to do, but I feel I have reached a major milestone in getting the track down. Now to make it all look pretty!
Rob
The Bayfields Light Railway & The Woodside Light Railway
The Bayfields Light Railway & The Woodside Light Railway
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Super job, Rob - and I love the shed !
That is very similar to what I have planned, although I have a slightly bigger area to play with. I have a station area already in a similar position with the track laid on concrete blocks within a raised flower bed. On the right hand side I have a section using Filcris but without the boards on top. I'm not very happy with it and will probably redo it as you have done.
I think I will persevere with the Filcris for the rest of it though it does seem a bit overpriced for what is basically recycled milk bottles ! I suppose it is worth it for the ease of construction and longevity.
My garden is pretty much level and the track will be about a foot above ground level all round. The bit I have done has a grass embankment sloping up to the track bed. In other areas I will probably use a retaining wall of some kind. I look forward to seeing how you deal with the landscaping.
My line seems to be taking forever - how long did it take you to do the work shown in your pictures ?
That is very similar to what I have planned, although I have a slightly bigger area to play with. I have a station area already in a similar position with the track laid on concrete blocks within a raised flower bed. On the right hand side I have a section using Filcris but without the boards on top. I'm not very happy with it and will probably redo it as you have done.
I think I will persevere with the Filcris for the rest of it though it does seem a bit overpriced for what is basically recycled milk bottles ! I suppose it is worth it for the ease of construction and longevity.
My garden is pretty much level and the track will be about a foot above ground level all round. The bit I have done has a grass embankment sloping up to the track bed. In other areas I will probably use a retaining wall of some kind. I look forward to seeing how you deal with the landscaping.
My line seems to be taking forever - how long did it take you to do the work shown in your pictures ?
Brian
Thanks for the replies and comments!
After the shed was done, I started work on the railway in August 2015. This was on the brick/concrete section. This took a month working weekends, as it went horribly wrong and I had to start all over again. Atleast it taught me reasonable bricklaying, and luckily I had help from my father in law who knows about this stuff. This was complete in September. I started filcrissing from October, trying to do atleast 3 days on it a month- even in the freezing cold!
I was fortunate to start with a level flat garden. A blank canvas! There have been no earthworks to deal with, so I will have to create hills and landscape by bringing materials in.
I'm in my early 30's, so bending down not an issue at present!
The line is about a foot off the ground at one end, and falls to about half a foot towards the summer house. Its quite decieving really, but I have managed to get the track level all the way around. This is great for the manual locos. I like to watch a train go round and not have to drive it as such.
I fully appreciate the benefits of a raised track, but I did not want to impact the garden too much and want it all to blend it eventually.
I agree that Filcris is expensive, but as its quite a short line so it hasn't broken the bank too much. I wanted something that was quick, solid and would not rot. I must have used about 12 meters of the ladder system in total. I was carefull to order the right amount, plus a few extra lengths. Cutting the track boards yourself also cut down the cost as you can by them pre-cut. In all, i am very happy with the product.
A train at a scale speed takes about a minute and half to do a lap, and I'm happy with that.
After the shed was done, I started work on the railway in August 2015. This was on the brick/concrete section. This took a month working weekends, as it went horribly wrong and I had to start all over again. Atleast it taught me reasonable bricklaying, and luckily I had help from my father in law who knows about this stuff. This was complete in September. I started filcrissing from October, trying to do atleast 3 days on it a month- even in the freezing cold!
I was fortunate to start with a level flat garden. A blank canvas! There have been no earthworks to deal with, so I will have to create hills and landscape by bringing materials in.
I'm in my early 30's, so bending down not an issue at present!
The line is about a foot off the ground at one end, and falls to about half a foot towards the summer house. Its quite decieving really, but I have managed to get the track level all the way around. This is great for the manual locos. I like to watch a train go round and not have to drive it as such.
I fully appreciate the benefits of a raised track, but I did not want to impact the garden too much and want it all to blend it eventually.
I agree that Filcris is expensive, but as its quite a short line so it hasn't broken the bank too much. I wanted something that was quick, solid and would not rot. I must have used about 12 meters of the ladder system in total. I was carefull to order the right amount, plus a few extra lengths. Cutting the track boards yourself also cut down the cost as you can by them pre-cut. In all, i am very happy with the product.
A train at a scale speed takes about a minute and half to do a lap, and I'm happy with that.
Rob
The Bayfields Light Railway & The Woodside Light Railway
The Bayfields Light Railway & The Woodside Light Railway
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Very inspiring indeed, great start to a garden railway, it almost gives me the intensive to start mine this year, so much planning to do before doing anything though
The buck stops here .......
Ditton Meadow Light Railway (DMLR)
Member of Peterborough and District Association
http://peterborough.16mm.org.uk/
Ditton Meadow Light Railway (DMLR)
Member of Peterborough and District Association
http://peterborough.16mm.org.uk/
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Loving the station area and your very fast progress! For what we have built so far of our line, we have used a similar method to you with the filcris but instead of filcris slabs, we have used heavy timber, largely because of apples falling in the summer.
Off topic to the railway itself, but I notice that you have some Swift Sixteen bulkhead flat wagons. What method did you use to get the planks to be a realistic wood colour? I have always been put off from getting some as I have not yet found a good method but yours look stunning, as does your Jack inspired Accucraft loco!
Off topic to the railway itself, but I notice that you have some Swift Sixteen bulkhead flat wagons. What method did you use to get the planks to be a realistic wood colour? I have always been put off from getting some as I have not yet found a good method but yours look stunning, as does your Jack inspired Accucraft loco!
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I painted mine in my standard grey (rattle can grey primer) and washed over the result with a very dilute wash of black - what we in Derbyshire call "Dutty Black" - because I couldn't find a good wood coloured paint! The result is quite good from six feet off............TTHLRMatt:115874 wrote:Off topic to the railway itself, but I notice that you have some Swift Sixteen bulkhead flat wagons. What method did you use to get the planks to be a realistic wood colour? I have always been put off from getting some as I have not yet found a good method but yours look stunning, as does your Jack inspired Accucraft loco! :D
Thanks for the replies!
I am glad you noticed the Accucraft 'Jack'! That was exactly what I was going for!
The Swift Sixteen flats are done with a paint set from Lifecolor called 'Weathered Wood'. In short, I built the wagons and then roughed up the woodgrain effect with a wire brush. This brought the detail out a bit more. The then sprayed with Halfords grey primer.
Using the Lifecolor set, I used a base colour fairly diluted, I built up the layers of colour. Use it like a wash, rather than a paint.
The chassis of the wagons, and iron parts were painted with Humbrol matt black and weathered with carrs weathering powders.
This link to my flickr page shows the wagons better-
https://www.flickr.com/photos/woodsidel ... nVQ-j3sAkZ
I did my Swift Sixteen D Wagon in the same way, and its come out very well.
I am glad you noticed the Accucraft 'Jack'! That was exactly what I was going for!
The Swift Sixteen flats are done with a paint set from Lifecolor called 'Weathered Wood'. In short, I built the wagons and then roughed up the woodgrain effect with a wire brush. This brought the detail out a bit more. The then sprayed with Halfords grey primer.
Using the Lifecolor set, I used a base colour fairly diluted, I built up the layers of colour. Use it like a wash, rather than a paint.
The chassis of the wagons, and iron parts were painted with Humbrol matt black and weathered with carrs weathering powders.
This link to my flickr page shows the wagons better-
https://www.flickr.com/photos/woodsidel ... nVQ-j3sAkZ
I did my Swift Sixteen D Wagon in the same way, and its come out very well.
Rob
The Bayfields Light Railway & The Woodside Light Railway
The Bayfields Light Railway & The Woodside Light Railway
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- Location: North West Leicestershire
Excellent work Rob. You've made great use of the space available and the results are superb.
I agree filcris is expensive and decided to shop around for alternatives. I thought I had found a couple of much cheaper alternatives but after pricing up what was needed to do the job they were equal to Filcris. I think recycled plastic in general is expensive; as someone else says, this seems daft for a recycled product. I'm only just on the verge of starting construction (after several years umming and ahhing) but have decided that the cost of filcris is well worth it in the long run.
All I need to do now is work out how to recreate (and find space for) a smashing little shed like yours.
Keep the pics coming,
Andrew
I agree filcris is expensive and decided to shop around for alternatives. I thought I had found a couple of much cheaper alternatives but after pricing up what was needed to do the job they were equal to Filcris. I think recycled plastic in general is expensive; as someone else says, this seems daft for a recycled product. I'm only just on the verge of starting construction (after several years umming and ahhing) but have decided that the cost of filcris is well worth it in the long run.
All I need to do now is work out how to recreate (and find space for) a smashing little shed like yours.
Keep the pics coming,
Andrew
"Smith! Why do you only come to work four days a week?
"'cause I can't manage on three gaffer!"
"'cause I can't manage on three gaffer!"
More work done today...
After a delivery of rockery stone, we have set about landscaping. Building up to the Filcris, soil has then been used to infil the gaps, ready for planting.
The last section of Filcris went in for the quarry sidings. The breeze blocks at the back are a base for the second station.
I have not decided on planting yet, but I spread some temporary trees about just to get a feel for what it might look like. I'm looking forward to hiding the filcris with balast.
After a delivery of rockery stone, we have set about landscaping. Building up to the Filcris, soil has then been used to infil the gaps, ready for planting.
The last section of Filcris went in for the quarry sidings. The breeze blocks at the back are a base for the second station.
I have not decided on planting yet, but I spread some temporary trees about just to get a feel for what it might look like. I'm looking forward to hiding the filcris with balast.
Rob
The Bayfields Light Railway & The Woodside Light Railway
The Bayfields Light Railway & The Woodside Light Railway
- Soar Valley Light
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- Posts: 1451
- Joined: Sun Dec 08, 2013 5:18 pm
- Location: North West Leicestershire
Hi Rob,
Thanks for sharing this latest update. I am greatly encouraged by seeing your efforts. It's very useful reference for my planned construction of a Filcris support to the track. In my case I plan to omit the 'decking' and instead lay a strip of geotextile over the top of the runners and fix the track down on top of that.
I was wondering what intervals you have spaced the support posts at and whether you used spacer blocks between the runners in between the posts?
All I need now is some drier weather!
Andrew
Thanks for sharing this latest update. I am greatly encouraged by seeing your efforts. It's very useful reference for my planned construction of a Filcris support to the track. In my case I plan to omit the 'decking' and instead lay a strip of geotextile over the top of the runners and fix the track down on top of that.
I was wondering what intervals you have spaced the support posts at and whether you used spacer blocks between the runners in between the posts?
All I need now is some drier weather!
Andrew
"Smith! Why do you only come to work four days a week?
"'cause I can't manage on three gaffer!"
"'cause I can't manage on three gaffer!"
Hi Andrew,Soar Valley Light:116286 wrote:Hi Rob,
Thanks for sharing this latest update. I am greatly encouraged by seeing your efforts. It's very useful reference for my planned construction of a Filcris support to the track. In my case I plan to omit the 'decking' and instead lay a strip of geotextile over the top of the runners and fix the track down on top of that.
I was wondering what intervals you have spaced the support posts at and whether you used spacer blocks between the runners in between the posts?
All I need now is some drier weather!
Andrew
I have spaced each post 50cm apart, with a spacer inbetween. Filcris can sag , so you need to make sure its well supported. The trackboards on top do add stability to the entire construction, and it is solid.
I would be tempted to use more spacers or posts closer together if you are not using trackboards on top.
I will have to see how my trackbed behaves over the next year to really know the ideal method for filcris. So far im very impressed.
-Rob
Rob
The Bayfields Light Railway & The Woodside Light Railway
The Bayfields Light Railway & The Woodside Light Railway
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