India
- Soar Valley Light
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- Location: North West Leicestershire
Re: India
Hi Rik,Peter Butler wrote: ↑Sun Apr 15, 2018 9:51 pm Hard to believe it is all over so quickly, you have experienced so much you are both probably physically and mentally exhausted, you might take a couple of days to return to normal life before you fill in the details which we are all eager to see and hear.
Pleasant journey home.
Everyones comments in the last couple of days sum up the things I'd say myself, Peter's quote is probably the most apposite. Uploading once your home may also remind you of previously untold experiences. I'm sure we are all on the edge of our seats to see the photo's and hear some more of your adventure. It's been absolutely fantastic so far!
All the bets,
Andrew
"Smith! Why do you only come to work four days a week?
"'cause I can't manage on three gaffer!"
"'cause I can't manage on three gaffer!"
Re: India
Thanks folks
Now safely home and made a start on trying to collate the photos from all the various bits of technology.
Curiously, although I had a couple of mild doses of Delhi Belly whilst in India, my body decided that today, now I'm safely home, it would do the full-blown version, so I've been a little incapacitated today (fill in your own details). Frustratingly, although James and I ate exactly the same food on the journey home - he's been as right as rain today.
Will try to make a bit of sense of the hundreds of photos and video clips and put something together in retrospect.
Rik
PS - Just been back and inserted the photos of the journey up to Darjeeling which I was struggling with while I was there. Hopefully the text will now make a bit more sense - https://gardenrails.org/forum/viewtopic ... 50#p135111
Now safely home and made a start on trying to collate the photos from all the various bits of technology.
Curiously, although I had a couple of mild doses of Delhi Belly whilst in India, my body decided that today, now I'm safely home, it would do the full-blown version, so I've been a little incapacitated today (fill in your own details). Frustratingly, although James and I ate exactly the same food on the journey home - he's been as right as rain today.
Will try to make a bit of sense of the hundreds of photos and video clips and put something together in retrospect.
Rik
PS - Just been back and inserted the photos of the journey up to Darjeeling which I was struggling with while I was there. Hopefully the text will now make a bit more sense - https://gardenrails.org/forum/viewtopic ... 50#p135111
Last edited by ge_rik on Tue Apr 17, 2018 11:30 pm, edited 2 times in total.
- Peter Butler
- Driver
- Posts: 5244
- Joined: Sun Sep 09, 2012 10:33 pm
- Location: West Wales
Re: India
Good news that you are both home safely and in reasonable working order. That was some journey and one which will keep us enthralled for some time to come.
Just feed us any details you have as it will be alien to the vast majority on the Forum. Anything you have to say or show will be enlightening.
Just feed us any details you have as it will be alien to the vast majority on the Forum. Anything you have to say or show will be enlightening.
The best things in life are free.... so why am I doing this?
Re: India
Darjeeling 1
The day after our arrival in Darjeeling, our host, Rapden, took us on a walking tour of the town. A couple of doors from his cottage was one of many Buddhist temples. I'm not familiar with Buddhism (or any religion come to that), but the ornate decoration and quality of the murals inside was mind numbing. And this was just a small temple tucked away in a tiny community. .
A couple of doors away from the temple, one of Rapden's neighbours brewed her own rice wine, called chang. Even though it was only 10.30am, it would have been impolite to refuse a sample. Unlike the rest of India, the majority of Darjeeling inhabitants are Ghorkas (brought to defend the frontier by the British). They eat meat (particularly beef) and are not averse to a glass or two of alcohol - so we found out. .
Rapden's cottage (or homestead) is on the reverse of the ridge from the main town and so is relatively quiet. Our walk took us around the edge of the ridge to Ghum - also spelt and pronounced Ghoom). This was the station we should have got off the train instead of going on another four miles to Darjeeling town the night before. .
There's a small museum devoted to the DHR on the top floor of the station building and, somehow, Rapden persuaded the station master to open it up for us. In the yard was a lovely little Sharp Stewart loco! (I do not need any more locos on the PLR...... do I?). .
We then popped into Rapden's favourite eating place where they served a local delicacy - taipo - basically a large suet dumpling stuffed with beef and accompanied by a thin beef broth. We encountered a few of these places on our travels. James liked to refer to them as 'places with no name'. There is no outward manifestation that they are places to eat (or drink) but, of course, the locals know where they are. .
After popping into another ornate temple ...... .
...... we encountered the Batasia Loop - one of the three remaining spirals on the DHR. We were just in time to see one of the steam locos and train traverse the loop. Short steam excursions from Darjeeling to Ghum (4 miles x 2) via the loop are run three times a day for tourists. The cost of the excursion is not far short of a single ticket on the entire 55 miles. .
A little while later a 'normal' train followed on. .
We then visited another monastery which was nowhere near as elaborately decorated and a bit drab. However, it's the one hotels send tourists to (for a ridiculous price) as it is the closest to town and there is somewhere to park. In the yard, some of the novice monks were playing marbles. They were impressively skilled at flicking their own and others' marbles into small potholes. .
We then hopped into a jeep taxi (again, only the locals know which jeeps are taxis) which took us into the main town and to the station. .
There was plenty of shunting going on (as you know, I love shunting operations)...... .
....while across the road three of the steam locos were in steam, presumably awaiting their turn to haul an excursion. .
I suppose, because they are in use every day, the locos were not in the sort of condition which we have come to expect on our preserved railways. .
Then on to a tea plantation and tea factory tour. By now the skies had cleared and the sun was shining. Apparently, the weather in Darjeeling changes every ten minutes or so. .
I must admit to previously knowing very little about how tea is produced. Amazing how white, green and black teas are made from the same leaf by simply leaving the rolled leaves to oxidise for varying lengths of time (ie spreading on a slab and letting air pass over it for an hour or so). .
Then another 'place with no name' for an egg-bun (omelet in a bun - inevitably with chillis). .
We then strolled up into the main town where we boarded another taxi to take us back to Rapden's community and yet another place with no name, where another of Rapden's neighbours distilled a rice-based spirit called Roxy. Quite powerful stuff - we had to have two glasses to fully appreciate the taste.
.
The following morning we caught the sun rise - out there behind the clouds are the Himalyas. We never did see them while we were there! Rik
The day after our arrival in Darjeeling, our host, Rapden, took us on a walking tour of the town. A couple of doors from his cottage was one of many Buddhist temples. I'm not familiar with Buddhism (or any religion come to that), but the ornate decoration and quality of the murals inside was mind numbing. And this was just a small temple tucked away in a tiny community. .
A couple of doors away from the temple, one of Rapden's neighbours brewed her own rice wine, called chang. Even though it was only 10.30am, it would have been impolite to refuse a sample. Unlike the rest of India, the majority of Darjeeling inhabitants are Ghorkas (brought to defend the frontier by the British). They eat meat (particularly beef) and are not averse to a glass or two of alcohol - so we found out. .
Rapden's cottage (or homestead) is on the reverse of the ridge from the main town and so is relatively quiet. Our walk took us around the edge of the ridge to Ghum - also spelt and pronounced Ghoom). This was the station we should have got off the train instead of going on another four miles to Darjeeling town the night before. .
There's a small museum devoted to the DHR on the top floor of the station building and, somehow, Rapden persuaded the station master to open it up for us. In the yard was a lovely little Sharp Stewart loco! (I do not need any more locos on the PLR...... do I?). .
We then popped into Rapden's favourite eating place where they served a local delicacy - taipo - basically a large suet dumpling stuffed with beef and accompanied by a thin beef broth. We encountered a few of these places on our travels. James liked to refer to them as 'places with no name'. There is no outward manifestation that they are places to eat (or drink) but, of course, the locals know where they are. .
After popping into another ornate temple ...... .
...... we encountered the Batasia Loop - one of the three remaining spirals on the DHR. We were just in time to see one of the steam locos and train traverse the loop. Short steam excursions from Darjeeling to Ghum (4 miles x 2) via the loop are run three times a day for tourists. The cost of the excursion is not far short of a single ticket on the entire 55 miles. .
A little while later a 'normal' train followed on. .
We then visited another monastery which was nowhere near as elaborately decorated and a bit drab. However, it's the one hotels send tourists to (for a ridiculous price) as it is the closest to town and there is somewhere to park. In the yard, some of the novice monks were playing marbles. They were impressively skilled at flicking their own and others' marbles into small potholes. .
We then hopped into a jeep taxi (again, only the locals know which jeeps are taxis) which took us into the main town and to the station. .
There was plenty of shunting going on (as you know, I love shunting operations)...... .
....while across the road three of the steam locos were in steam, presumably awaiting their turn to haul an excursion. .
I suppose, because they are in use every day, the locos were not in the sort of condition which we have come to expect on our preserved railways. .
Then on to a tea plantation and tea factory tour. By now the skies had cleared and the sun was shining. Apparently, the weather in Darjeeling changes every ten minutes or so. .
I must admit to previously knowing very little about how tea is produced. Amazing how white, green and black teas are made from the same leaf by simply leaving the rolled leaves to oxidise for varying lengths of time (ie spreading on a slab and letting air pass over it for an hour or so). .
Then another 'place with no name' for an egg-bun (omelet in a bun - inevitably with chillis). .
We then strolled up into the main town where we boarded another taxi to take us back to Rapden's community and yet another place with no name, where another of Rapden's neighbours distilled a rice-based spirit called Roxy. Quite powerful stuff - we had to have two glasses to fully appreciate the taste.
.
The following morning we caught the sun rise - out there behind the clouds are the Himalyas. We never did see them while we were there! Rik
- Peter Butler
- Driver
- Posts: 5244
- Joined: Sun Sep 09, 2012 10:33 pm
- Location: West Wales
Re: India
Wonderful story Rik and superb pictures to illustrate the flavour. How nice to be able to see places which tourists would normally miss.... a local guide or resident is a great help to enjoy the local atmosphere.
The best things in life are free.... so why am I doing this?
Re: India
They are rightly proud of the DHR which is presumably why they are prepared to continuously spend millions on repairing landslip damage. Over the whole length of the line there are boards with information about and photos of the line. I took the opportunity to snap a few for my own interest - but thought you might like to see some of them too. Apologies about the reflections on some - they were behind glass in the museum and so not easy to photograph. Hopefully they are self explanatory.
The railway was once a network of 2' and metre gauge lines. .
Batasia Loop soon after construction .
Ghum Station - as was: .
I think it was this photo of the spiral which first attracted me to the DHR as a kid. I vowed then that I would visit the railway one day, it only took me 60 years to chieve that aim . . .
One of the six reverse zig zags uneder construction. Apparently, when they built the railway, they had no overall master plan. They just followed the old cart road and solved problems over its construction as and when they arose. Another close comparison I'd imagine with most of our garden railways (or am I only spekaing from my own perspective?) . .
Landslips have dogged the line's existence from the start. .
Darjeeling (another nice prototype for a garden railway station layout?) . .
And a few miscellaneous shots: .
Rik
.
The railway was once a network of 2' and metre gauge lines. .
Batasia Loop soon after construction .
Ghum Station - as was: .
I think it was this photo of the spiral which first attracted me to the DHR as a kid. I vowed then that I would visit the railway one day, it only took me 60 years to chieve that aim . . .
One of the six reverse zig zags uneder construction. Apparently, when they built the railway, they had no overall master plan. They just followed the old cart road and solved problems over its construction as and when they arose. Another close comparison I'd imagine with most of our garden railways (or am I only spekaing from my own perspective?) . .
Landslips have dogged the line's existence from the start. .
Darjeeling (another nice prototype for a garden railway station layout?) . .
And a few miscellaneous shots: .
Rik
Re: India
Great photos Rik - thank you for sharing - lots of inspiration in there - I, like you and the DHR, tend to build my line as I go and deal with issues as they arise - I do like those spirals - maybe on my next line!
Also great to see the photos alongside your adventures around the town and surrounding areas - as in many countries, those establishments only known to the locals tend to be the best!
Also great to see the photos alongside your adventures around the town and surrounding areas - as in many countries, those establishments only known to the locals tend to be the best!
Where did I put that uncoupler?
Re: India
Darjeeling 2
Unlike our other city visits, we had two full days in Darjeeling (3 nights) and so had the luxury of a second day's touring - we opted to chill out in the morning and then spend the afternoon sightseeing. Rapden hired us a car plus driver, Ricky (for a pre arranged fee of R2000 (about £24)) and suggested a few places of interest. First was the Tibetan Refugee Centre (which we visited reluctantly at his insistence). We should have realised he had our best interests at heart
It didn't look that inspiring. But there were some displays describing the plight of the refugees expelled from Tibet, seeking shelter in Darjeeling and building their own community and workshops. So we became more involved. .
We watched craftsmen at work, impressed with their dexterity and skill .... .
And then visited the shop. And now we understood why Rapden had been so insistent. I bought a couple of large woven shawls for R400 each (about £5) and a pashmina for R300 (£3.60) and James was rather taken with a traditional handowoven Tibetan jacket. I kidded him that he'd turn a few heads as he walked down the High Street in the village - 'Just what I was thinking!' he said and promptly bought it (for R2000 - about £25)! .
We then snacked on some momo and spicy potato cakes ..... .
..... and visited the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute which was established by Tenzing Norgay Sherpa (a friend of Rapden's mother - but then we suspect every Darjeeling resident will claim some connection with Tenzing) ... .
There was a zoo at the Institute where we saw a Bengal Tiger - magnificent beast - but clearly frustrated at being caged without a mate. I refused to add to his indignity by taking photos!
And then back to the Quaint Wood Cottage for tea. Rapden had bought us fish from the fishman. I wasn't too sure about having half a fish head each, but the cheeks were tasty. .
We had a long chat with Rapden's 17 year old helper Anindita and her cousin. .
Anindita's mother was divorced but had taken in her sister's children after their parents had died in a landslip. Rapden employed Anindita to earn a bit of pocket money as clearly the family struggled.
We sat on the balcony supping the remnants of a bottle of HIT beer (the local brew) and watched sunset lighting up the clouds, contemplating our good fortune. Rik
Unlike our other city visits, we had two full days in Darjeeling (3 nights) and so had the luxury of a second day's touring - we opted to chill out in the morning and then spend the afternoon sightseeing. Rapden hired us a car plus driver, Ricky (for a pre arranged fee of R2000 (about £24)) and suggested a few places of interest. First was the Tibetan Refugee Centre (which we visited reluctantly at his insistence). We should have realised he had our best interests at heart
It didn't look that inspiring. But there were some displays describing the plight of the refugees expelled from Tibet, seeking shelter in Darjeeling and building their own community and workshops. So we became more involved. .
We watched craftsmen at work, impressed with their dexterity and skill .... .
And then visited the shop. And now we understood why Rapden had been so insistent. I bought a couple of large woven shawls for R400 each (about £5) and a pashmina for R300 (£3.60) and James was rather taken with a traditional handowoven Tibetan jacket. I kidded him that he'd turn a few heads as he walked down the High Street in the village - 'Just what I was thinking!' he said and promptly bought it (for R2000 - about £25)! .
We then snacked on some momo and spicy potato cakes ..... .
..... and visited the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute which was established by Tenzing Norgay Sherpa (a friend of Rapden's mother - but then we suspect every Darjeeling resident will claim some connection with Tenzing) ... .
There was a zoo at the Institute where we saw a Bengal Tiger - magnificent beast - but clearly frustrated at being caged without a mate. I refused to add to his indignity by taking photos!
And then back to the Quaint Wood Cottage for tea. Rapden had bought us fish from the fishman. I wasn't too sure about having half a fish head each, but the cheeks were tasty. .
We had a long chat with Rapden's 17 year old helper Anindita and her cousin. .
Anindita's mother was divorced but had taken in her sister's children after their parents had died in a landslip. Rapden employed Anindita to earn a bit of pocket money as clearly the family struggled.
We sat on the balcony supping the remnants of a bottle of HIT beer (the local brew) and watched sunset lighting up the clouds, contemplating our good fortune. Rik
Re: India
Not a lot more to say about your trip Rik, but thank you for sharing it with us.
I for one have been transformed in my minds eye that I was there experiencing what you were, and I know I couldn’t taste or smell what you both did, it was a truly great delight seeing such a very beautiful and diverse country….Thank You.
I for one have been transformed in my minds eye that I was there experiencing what you were, and I know I couldn’t taste or smell what you both did, it was a truly great delight seeing such a very beautiful and diverse country….Thank You.
ROD
Life is so easy when I run my trains.
https://gardenrails.org/forum/viewtopic ... 41&t=11364
https://www.youtube.com/@fairywoodlightrailway
Life is so easy when I run my trains.
https://gardenrails.org/forum/viewtopic ... 41&t=11364
https://www.youtube.com/@fairywoodlightrailway
Re: India
Darjeeling to NJP
We left Darjeeling with some reluctance and boarded the downward train at Ghum. .
The weather was quite different for our descent and passing through the various towns and villages .... .
.... plenty of people waved. The railway is clearly holds great affection for those who live by it. As we passed through the countryside, beautiful butterflies of all colours, shapes and sizes kept pace with us and there were a couple of swarms of what looked like dragonflies dancing alongside the train. .
The views across the hillsides were much clearer ..... .
.... and traffic on the cart road was very light. They have constructed a far more direct route from NJP to Darjeeling and so most of the traffic uses that. .
All too soon we were back in cow country and tuk-tuk territory. .
As on the upward journey, we had to wait for over an hour to get clearance to cross the mixed gauge river bridge. .
But somehow it didn't matter. We were in no hurry - I had allowed a four hour buffer between the DHR and our next train - the overnighter to Kolkata.
Although we spent a day and a night in Kolkata - it was very much a staging-post. Our Indian adventure had drawn to a close.
Thanks folks for your interest, feedback and tolerance over the technical hitches which I encountered when trying to post from various remote locations. I was planning on sharing some of my thoughts and suggestions on AirBnb accommodation, on booking trains and on the food in case anyone was interested in maybe being foolhardy enough to follow in our footsteps, but I somehow feel this thread has run its course. If anyone does want further info, please don't hesitate to PM me. Always happy to help.
Rik
We left Darjeeling with some reluctance and boarded the downward train at Ghum. .
The weather was quite different for our descent and passing through the various towns and villages .... .
.... plenty of people waved. The railway is clearly holds great affection for those who live by it. As we passed through the countryside, beautiful butterflies of all colours, shapes and sizes kept pace with us and there were a couple of swarms of what looked like dragonflies dancing alongside the train. .
The views across the hillsides were much clearer ..... .
.... and traffic on the cart road was very light. They have constructed a far more direct route from NJP to Darjeeling and so most of the traffic uses that. .
All too soon we were back in cow country and tuk-tuk territory. .
As on the upward journey, we had to wait for over an hour to get clearance to cross the mixed gauge river bridge. .
But somehow it didn't matter. We were in no hurry - I had allowed a four hour buffer between the DHR and our next train - the overnighter to Kolkata.
Although we spent a day and a night in Kolkata - it was very much a staging-post. Our Indian adventure had drawn to a close.
Thanks folks for your interest, feedback and tolerance over the technical hitches which I encountered when trying to post from various remote locations. I was planning on sharing some of my thoughts and suggestions on AirBnb accommodation, on booking trains and on the food in case anyone was interested in maybe being foolhardy enough to follow in our footsteps, but I somehow feel this thread has run its course. If anyone does want further info, please don't hesitate to PM me. Always happy to help.
Rik
- Peter Butler
- Driver
- Posts: 5244
- Joined: Sun Sep 09, 2012 10:33 pm
- Location: West Wales
Re: India
Just like so many others on the Forum I have been totally gripped by your reports and pictures. Not many would undertake such an adventure (at any age!) but you have not only experienced it yourself but enthralled us all with your stories which have been delivered so well.
I would like to hear of your travels in China next..... should you happen to be thinking about your next journey?
I would like to hear of your travels in China next..... should you happen to be thinking about your next journey?
The best things in life are free.... so why am I doing this?
Re: India
Much more mundane - likely to be the North East or maybe the South of England. Nowhere near as exotic I'm afraid.Peter Butler wrote: ↑Thu Apr 19, 2018 6:56 pm I would like to hear of your travels in China next..... should you happen to be thinking about your next journey?
Rik
Re: India
ge-rik, it has been an privilege to read your story's and watch the photo's. Seen the impression it has left in me, I guess this country really does get under your skin big time when you're actually there. Thanks very much for taking the effort to share your story and fight the monkey's in the computer for us to get the pictures online. Much appriciated!
"En schöne Gruess" from an Alpine railway in Holland.
Re: India
Nothing wrong with having an adventure down Sarth’ or the North East or North West or anywhere in the UK Rik…..
The way you tell your adventures, is like listening to a teacher reading a story to us and we all imagine were are there too.
The way you tell your adventures, is like listening to a teacher reading a story to us and we all imagine were are there too.
ROD
Life is so easy when I run my trains.
https://gardenrails.org/forum/viewtopic ... 41&t=11364
https://www.youtube.com/@fairywoodlightrailway
Life is so easy when I run my trains.
https://gardenrails.org/forum/viewtopic ... 41&t=11364
https://www.youtube.com/@fairywoodlightrailway
Re: India
Rik - following this post has been fantastic - thank you - definitely tempting me for a trip over there
If there is more to share, sure people wouldn't mind but appreciate you don't want to keep spending hours typing and trawling through photos
Maybe we ask you a few questions?????? Like when you go to a presentation/slide show - the person presents and then opens up the floor Here's one to start you off
If you were to model something from your Indian Railway adventure on your line, what are your top 3 candidates?
If there is more to share, sure people wouldn't mind but appreciate you don't want to keep spending hours typing and trawling through photos
Maybe we ask you a few questions?????? Like when you go to a presentation/slide show - the person presents and then opens up the floor Here's one to start you off
If you were to model something from your Indian Railway adventure on your line, what are your top 3 candidates?
Where did I put that uncoupler?
Re: India
Interesting question, Mark.
As I mentioned in the above thread, I was really taken with the little Sharp Stewart tank loco in the museum yard at Ghum. Though I must fight the temptation to make another loco - I have too many already. .
I really like the way the DHR follows the old cart road on a shelf in the hillsides and how the communities have grown alongside the railway and road. Even though I am modelling in the garden, where space ought not be at a premium, I'd be really interested in building a layout which mirrors this. Doesn't have to be Indian based, just like the concept. .
The turntables at Darjeeling and at Shimla are very basic but functional. I've got the makings of a Donegal Railways railcar which I must construct sometime and so I'm going to have to install turntables at each of the termini. So a couple of simple turntables based on those I saw would be ideal. .
Rik
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