G&DR Rolling Stock

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Sylvian Tennant
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G&DR Rolling Stock

Post by Sylvian Tennant » Mon Mar 25, 2013 3:19 am

Well, I've made a start.

These are basically some IPE kits I bought at Elsecar last year.

As they're pretty basic I have began adding some detail along the sole bars and bodies to add a tad bit of depth and character to them.

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I've just spent most of tonight drilling about 160 holes in them ready from some track pin rivets.

and also bending brass to make some lamp irons!
Last edited by Sylvian Tennant on Thu Oct 17, 2019 4:48 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Post by bazzer42 » Mon Mar 25, 2013 7:39 am

Thanks Sylvian you have shamed me twice. I finished an ip 3/4 plank wagon yesterday and thought how plain the solebars look. In addition Mrs B is wondering why men love to work in clutter and have more than one project on the go! She says it isn't logical......
The solebars look far better tarted up. Sylvian - not a David fan?
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Post by Keith S » Mon Mar 25, 2013 2:50 pm

I love knocking together the IP kits, it's just like eating crisps: it's hard to stop after just one.

They do stand a fair amount of tarting up, though, they are rather plain by themselves. For the four-plank wagons, I find the little brake kit is a nice addition. It dresses up one side of the wagon anyway. You'd have to buy four of them to get enough brake shoes for a brake van but they look good on an open wagon. Another thing I do is I use one of those very fine-tipped markers to draw planking on the inside, and then weather the "boards" separately with different stains to make it look like real planks.


Image

IP wagons are nicely proportioned though. Another thing I like about them is that they come with wheels: a deciding factor because I have to ship everything I buy to Canada, and I don't like kits that don't come with wheels!

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Post by Sylvian Tennant » Mon Mar 25, 2013 5:40 pm

Thanks Bazzer!

I agree they look a lot better with something added to them. looking a little fuller now the "coal" wagon now has rivets and bolt added to them. pictures will follow soon.

The work bench, the weird thing is I always do a spring clean after most of my projects but as you rightly said, I have more than one on the go so it's about two months of my farting about without cleaning it properly! My girlfriend is the same, she just can't understand the idea of organised chaos!

and yeap :P good observation on the name.

I'm enjoying them, I'm a tad worried that the wheels will either drop off or will be added wonky but they seem very forgiving wagons.

I was going to get some brake kits and solebar bits from IPE but costs went against the idea and I'm really enjoying adding my own bits too. I'm thinking of adding a dummy brake gear with some of the ply sprue I have left over.

Cheers for the tip Keith (i.e the inside planking). These wagons are going to be run permanently loaded hiding a 4oz fishing weight. But I have a brake van and a coach I've going to convert to a composite brake which will have interior planking.

Can I just add I was very impressed by your kit built Billy.

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Post by bazzer42 » Mon Mar 25, 2013 6:41 pm

I agree on the ipe wheels they don't inspire confidence. The one I've just finished has Bachmann wheels that unfortunately pushes the solebars out so the bland wood is more prominent.
I'm going to try some busted brick vans to detail and to QA the wheels.
160 rivets or Manafon? Give me rivets any day!
Ps liked the lady Ann, I've got a 15 year old one and runs a treat.
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Post by Sylvian Tennant » Tue Mar 26, 2013 4:26 pm

They look alright, I'm liking this whole laser cut wood thing. In all honesty, I'm more of a Bauhaus and Japan person than a pure David Sylvian fan.

That's a shame, so far the only really problem I've had was the lines which tell you were the sole bar should go was a little too close together so the wheels were rock solid when I tested them out with the brass bearings.

Anyway, after some sanding of the sole bar and filing of the white metal parts you are a nice snug but free fit.

Strange though because the van I had to judge the sole bar width and they were free from the start!.

I've added the rivets now with minimal problems but no photos just yet.

But one thing I'd like to ask, how easy/hard do people find removing the wheels from axle boxes once they're glued in?

This is to decide whether I should paint the wagons before I add those or after, plus for any future servicing.

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Post by MDLR » Tue Mar 26, 2013 5:29 pm

I tend to spray mine, then use the John Rogers Patented Method for getting the wheels to rotate again.

Take your Dremel (or other similar tool) with a polishing wheel in it. Run up to full speed, then hold the polishing wheel against the wheel tread. You may need to apply a little "persuasion" but the wheelset WILL start turning and WILL free off. Once you've got it going, introduce some oil................. and Robert is your father's brother!
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Post by GTB » Wed Mar 27, 2013 8:46 am

Sylvian Tennant:81623 wrote:
But one thing I'd like to ask, how easy/hard do people find removing the wheels from axle boxes once they're glued in?

This is to decide whether I should paint the wagons before I add those or after, plus for any future servicing.
I always make sure things can be removed for service, which I learnt the hard way......

I use Accucraft axleboxes on the scratchbuilt stock and screw them to the back of the sideframe. It is just possible to get a screwdriver to them once assembled, if they need adjustment.

My railcars were built from IP kits and for those I glued blocks to the floor and screwed the sideframes to the blocks, but the axleboxes are glued and screwed into place on the sideframe. I changed the wheels in the kits to larger ones some time after initial completion, with no problems and no damage.

When assembling models I design them to be disassembled both for painting and maintenance. Usually I split them into subassemblies based on colour, to simplify painting. In the case of a van for instance, the roof, body and underframe are separate subassemblies.

When it comes to wheels, I leave them in place when painting, then clean off any paint on the wheel treads with a pipe cleaner and some lacquer thinner.

I use an airbrush, so paint doesn't penetrate into the bearings anyway. If the bearings have been oiled before painting, even brush painting would be hard pressed to glue the wheels in place. If it worries you, just paint the wheels and the backs of the axleboxes before assembly.

Regards,
Graeme

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Post by Keith S » Wed Mar 27, 2013 11:18 am

I always paint the wagon, then add the wheels. I never thought about getting the wheels off...I gues I hope I don't need to.

Thanks for the compliment on the "Billy" :D

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Post by williamfj » Wed Mar 27, 2013 11:53 am

I leave the wheels on, once I paint the wheels then I oil them.

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Post by bazzer42 » Wed Mar 27, 2013 2:25 pm

Phew! Thanks Keith and William, I too have never thought about removing although I do have a pot of Bond Loc remover :D

I always build a little slop in the running - is that bad?

I always come back to the first three solo sylvians with Gone to Earth figuring in my leaving ceremony. Mmmmm thought, will Mrs B respray my roundhouse widows, Katie and Lady Ann in black as a mark of respect??
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Post by Sylvian Tennant » Mon Apr 01, 2013 10:42 pm

Cheers for the advice chaps.

I've decided to stick to my 4mm teachings and leave the wheels off until I've painted them.

But I have made some progress.

Image

Image

Image

Tonight alone I managed to add roof planking but as of yet have not taken a photo.

Good song to go out to my friend, I do hope she will, black as you can tell goes well with anything.

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Post by bazzer42 » Tue Apr 02, 2013 9:04 am

Looking Mr T. I fear I will need to revisit my ip open and add some sole bar detail, it looks so much better. To kill time before the arrival of a baguley I have invested in an ip brake. I will have a look later and see how much detail it hasn't got.

It's sunny so I will try running my wagons for the first time today. I'm not sure how the accucraft wheels on my swift sixteen well wagon will react to lgb points. I know GE rik adds plastic discs to his ip wheels to aid running. I used bacmann onthe open as the originals were rusty (old s/hand kit).

Cheers for the update.
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Post by Sylvian Tennant » Tue Apr 02, 2013 8:01 pm

Cheers man :)

The solebar detail brings out models. The basic kits are very nice and will build up quickly but it's worth investing some time and patience to make a really nice model.

Let me know how you're running comes along today mate, yeah I've seen him do it, seems to work nicely though if I was to have a permanentset up, I'll be using Peco track.

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Post by bazzer42 » Tue Apr 02, 2013 8:25 pm

Mixed results on the wheel trials behind Lady Anne and a battery diesel they towed find, however a reverse move through an R1 back to back was a failure. The accucraft appear to be unhappy although one of the points is notoriously unpredictable. I might try fitting some rik type discs this week and see what results I get.
Given my time again I would be peco 32 as well. I also regret not using more r3 points.
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