I seem to go through three link chains and coupling pins at a faster rate than gas and water!
Pins I simply make from the copper core of 2.5mm twin and earth, but I've been buying chains from the likes of NPW.
However the other day I found this Silver chain at £2.19 for 2 metres.
The only, albeit slight, problem is that it's tarnish resistant and I haven't been able to blacken it at all. I've tried vinegar and wire wool, and salt water.
I post this as it may be of interest to others, and that someone may have a suggestion for taking the shine off.
Coupling chains
- BorisSpencer
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- tom_tom_go
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Re: Coupling chains.
Try heating it up or pulling it through sandpaper and chemically blacken it or leaving outside to rust.
Another way although you do at your own risk is heating up the chain and then dunking in used engine oil (rinse and repeat a few times). Again, at your own risk!
You could also use brass chain which is easier to chemically blacken.
Another way although you do at your own risk is heating up the chain and then dunking in used engine oil (rinse and repeat a few times). Again, at your own risk!
You could also use brass chain which is easier to chemically blacken.
- Peter Butler
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Re: Coupling chains
If you have a branch of 'Charlies' warehouse stores near you (also on line) they sell cut lengths of chain of suitable size which appears to be steel so will tarnish if left outdoors. Possibly 'Wilkinsons' or 'B&Q' have it in coils which can be bought in desired lengths?
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Re: Coupling chains
Would some type of paint stripper be strong enough to start off the braking down process? Regarding breakages i've not had a problem yet but in fairness haven't exactly had much linked up at a time. Can't take the credit for the idea but what I do now is rather than bend my own or cut one link up in order to thread it through the draw bar is to cut four chain links off the main coil (or whatever length you have bought from your builders merchant, B&Q etc) and then throw the extra link away. After that file/mini disk down the outer face of either end of the remaining three link chain and then persuade it into the hook casting recess. If there is no recess, just a hole then you'll have to make a little incision in order to reach down to said hole. The trick is to take a little off at a time until a bit of oomph is sufficient to make the two join, as you don't want too much slack. Once the chain is in rotate the top link so that it has 180ed and then the filed down face is both hidden by the middle chain and the now high end of the link is secure within the hook recess and hey presto durable chain
Finding the right sized chain for whatever scale is usually the bigger issue but you can elongate the links before doing the above via sturdy gripper pliers. A little fiddly as they like to wriggle when being pressed but doing this makes the chain look less like it's come from your bath and it gives you that little extra length between buffered up stock, particularly handy around tighter corners.
Finding the right sized chain for whatever scale is usually the bigger issue but you can elongate the links before doing the above via sturdy gripper pliers. A little fiddly as they like to wriggle when being pressed but doing this makes the chain look less like it's come from your bath and it gives you that little extra length between buffered up stock, particularly handy around tighter corners.
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