Rail Car for Dirranbandi and Toowoomba Light Railway

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Oily Rag
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Rail Car for Dirranbandi and Toowoomba Light Railway

Post by Oily Rag » Sun Mar 24, 2019 3:37 pm

It had been decided quite some time ago that the DTLR needed something along the lines of a railcar. The mail and parcels had to be delivered and the sparse numbers of passenger traffic had to travel in more comfort than the open cars they had been forced to use. The CME (me!) was tasked with looking into the matter and as usual the budget was considered to be tight. So a delve into the annals of the Donegal railway and the Indian Shimla railway was in order.
The usual design was undertaken in house for an articulated rail bus. The gestation period for this project has been long extended for a variety of reasons. It has just been taken up again as a first item now the workshops are running again. Like most other things on our railway it is all scratch built. It is twin motored, has a wooden "coach built" body and a metal chassis of brass and steel. Even the wheels were made in house. The bits box provided enough plastic gears suitably modified with two 50pence Mabuchi can motors to knock a couple of transmission units.

I have a complete build history from cutting the first bit of ply (plus the works drawings of course) but I won't bore you with that. However upon taking up the project again I found that the alleged high quality hobby PVA wood glue had parted company in parts of the roof where there are stressed areas although I use a homemade jig/press for my roofs. So new roofs were in order just for starters. However I have attached a few pics to show the later developments. The ESC is a tweaked Tamiya car unit, the RC an Acoms 27meg I had by me. The two PCBs are home brewed items (at the kichen sink lab when the domestic authorities were out). The one with the two little white boxes is two RC switches (taken from the model boat fraternity suitable modded) and the other is a modded circuit to give an ERRR!ARRH! two tone horn from two oscillators running differing frequencies. I have reached the stage of getting all in place and the various mountings for things> By the way the batteries you see are spent ones being used to get dimensions, in reality they will be NiMh rechargeables. As usual freelancing though everything has its place except I have forgotten one switch and that is for the horn power supply to stop the battery draining when not in use. The bonnet (hood) unit top is all compound curves sanded from laminated balsa, and the bonnet cover is O.5MM (20thou) plasticard heat moulded to shape at the second attempt to get something close.
Hope someone finds it of interest.
regards
Ian
Attachments
railcar09.JPG
railcar35.JPG
railcar34.JPG
railcar33.JPG
railcar32.JPG
railcar31.JPG
railcar28.JPG
railcar18.JPG
Regards
Ian
Dirranbandi & Toowoomba Light Railway

DAVID L
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Re: Rail Car for Dirranbandi and Toowoomba Light Railway.

Post by DAVID L » Sun Mar 24, 2019 5:33 pm

Looks great. I'm starting on an IP Colonial railbus, which won't be anywhere near as original as yours, but should have a few tweaks compared to the out of the box version.

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Re: Rail Car for Dirranbandi and Toowoomba Light Railway.

Post by Andrew » Sun Mar 24, 2019 6:54 pm

That's looking great! Very nicely made, and a convincing "might have been" too - to my un-tutored eye anyway!

Looking forward to further progress reports...

All the best,

Andrew.

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Re: Rail Car for Dirranbandi and Toowoomba Light Railway

Post by ge_rik » Mon Mar 25, 2019 9:02 am

That's nice. Very nice!

Rik
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Re: Rail Car for Dirranbandi and Toowoomba Light Railway

Post by Oily Rag » Mon Mar 25, 2019 3:08 pm

Thanks guys. I will keep you up to date. Today unfortunately was moving 2 tons of walling blocks which arrived on the drive at 7AM this morning up to the site, then a ton each of the MOT1 and sharp sand which I am not moving until needed. This rendered my hands rather too unsteady to do any modelling work. Hopefully will be able to finalise a workable track plan.
regards
Ian.
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Ian
Dirranbandi & Toowoomba Light Railway

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Re: Rail Car for Dirranbandi and Toowoomba Light Railway

Post by Oily Rag » Sun Apr 07, 2019 12:59 pm

Please guys I am not "ERIC" that is not my railway. that is not my avatar nor any I would use. There has been a merging of accounts and I am sure Tom is going to sort out the problem
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Ian
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Ian
Dirranbandi & Toowoomba Light Railway

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Re: Rail Car for Dirranbandi and Toowoomba Light Railway

Post by Oily Rag » Sun Apr 07, 2019 3:37 pm

Ok I think we have now sorted the problem with the accounts.
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Ian
Dirranbandi & Toowoomba Light Railway

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Re: Rail Car for Dirranbandi and Toowoomba Light Railway

Post by IrishPeter » Mon Apr 08, 2019 2:50 am

That looks just the ticket, Ian! I an see something of the old KSR 'buses in it. Lovely!

Cheers,
Peter in Va
Traffic Pattern? What pattern? Spuds out; grain in, but cattle, sheep and passengers are a lot less predictable.

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Re: Rail Car for Dirranbandi and Toowoomba Light Railway

Post by Oily Rag » Mon Apr 08, 2019 9:26 am

Thanks Peter, all a figment of my over fertile imagination but I really do owe a lot to places like the Donegal and Shimla in that thinking. It has been a fun build so far but has had its frustrations and failures along the way. Now I have to knock up some tooling for the downsized machines I have, including the tooling for proper brass louvres on the engine cover sides. Its nice at this stage because I have a number of different things I can do with it, so when one becomes a chore I can do something else. Looming large now is the priming and painting of the interiors.
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Ian
Dirranbandi & Toowoomba Light Railway

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Re: Rail Car for Dirranbandi and Toowoomba Light Railway

Post by -steves- » Mon Apr 08, 2019 9:18 pm

Oily Rag wrote:
Sun Mar 24, 2019 3:37 pm
Like most other things on our railway it is all scratch built. It is twin motored, has a wooden "coach built" body and a metal chassis of brass and steel. Even the wheels were made in house. The bits box provided enough plastic gears suitably modified with two 50pence Mabuchi can motors to knock a couple of transmission units.

I have a complete build history from cutting the first bit of ply (plus the works drawings of course) but I won't bore you with that. es sanded from laminated balsa, and the bonnet cover is O.5MM (20thou) plasticard heat moulded to shape at the second attempt to get something close.

Hope someone finds it of interest.

regards
Ian
Ian

Very interesting thank you :)

I am particularly loving the dual motor setup. How much of the motor setup did you scratch build? I would really like to see the mechanical side of the build if you wouldn't mind posting it up?
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Re: Rail Car for Dirranbandi and Toowoomba Light Railway

Post by Oily Rag » Tue Apr 09, 2019 10:35 am

Ok Steve. I will re post the two pictures from above and put together an explanation of how the prime mover happened later today. A bit pushed this morning, hope you don't mind.
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Ian
Dirranbandi & Toowoomba Light Railway

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Re: Rail Car for Dirranbandi and Toowoomba Light Railway

Post by Oily Rag » Tue Apr 09, 2019 4:53 pm

Hi Steve,
You asked about how much is actually scratch built in my motive power unit.
railcar28.JPG
This is an exploded view of the parts in the actual power units. The motors are Mabuchi 6V/12V can motors bought for 50pence each in a bag of 10 from a well known vendor in this market and in model boats. No-one wanted them because there was no gear on the output shaft. I have used 5 of them on the DTLR "Workhorse" locos which are similar to Simplex's but designed for my railway in our own D.O. and made by me in our own workshops (the build kindly publicised a while ago in Garden Rail). The gears are bits and pieces from those plastic "Geartech" sets sold by Proops Brothers in Fleckney and W.Hobby. They are not brilliant but sort of OK. Special shafts for the smaller gears were turned in the workshop but the larger gears had to have special brass centres made which were a tight fit in the recessess of the gears and bolted into place with M2 screws on a P.C.D., then grubscrews to axles and shafts. The bevels were a nightmare from the same source. They had to have special centres made which were a tight slide fit and then fixed with green Loctite (High Strength Bearing Retainer). Grub screws could then be used in the extended brass boss, adjustable to get the meshing somewhere near. The gear tain is compounded and with the gears I had we have a 1:1 bevel, and then a total of 14:1 reduction with the spur gears. So much for the motion work. The motor mount is 5mm (3/16") brass with a channel milled in the rear face to which the motor mounts. There is a register on the business of the motor which privides and accurate location. The side plates are mounted with 3x M2 screws each side, the motor mount being tapped through its shoulders. The side plates are 1MM brass with top hat bearings all made in house soldered at the relevant positions. Little recessed button jigs had to be made to hold them firmly in place whilst they were soldered, otherwise the solder lifts them. I had to spend quite a while working out the shaft centres as even Proops were not able to provide the detailed Technical information. So ended up counting teeth and taking a lot of measurements. Two end pillars which sort of straddle the final output gear had to be turned and tapped M2 each end and be the accurate length to match the width of the motor mount. All four side plates were made together, clamped to the mill table and all the holes were drilled a close fit for the bearings using co-ordinates from the mill table handwheels in the Xand Y axes.
I was a bit stuck as the back to backs are 40MM (lower limit 39,5MM) I use on my wheels. The wheels were made by me in house. The diameter of the motor can and the build up of parts meant things getting a little tight. What I discovered to my horror on assembly was that the plastic gears were not of good quality at all. In fact the concentricity was poor. I should have allowed much more slop in the gear train but ended up with some fair few hours work with Swiss needle files easing the more poorly shaped teeth and compensating for the lack of concentricity even after pulling them into better shape with the hubs I made.
Fitting them into the chassis is very "tram-like". The unit swings off the axle boxes (I will go on to describe in a bit), being located at the opposite end to the output shaft by those triangular plates as there is a boss in the centre of the motor plastic end. Then bolted to the relevant cross member of the chassis.

railcar30.JPG
railcar29.JPG
Regards
Ian
Dirranbandi & Toowoomba Light Railway

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Re: Rail Car for Dirranbandi and Toowoomba Light Railway

Post by Oily Rag » Tue Apr 09, 2019 5:09 pm

As regards the chassis.
railcar26.JPG
Main frames made from 1.5MM thick mild steel strip, all drillings shapes and slots made by co-ordinate methods on the mill table. In fact three "tooling holes were drilled in them and they were bolted down to a chunk of alloy plate. Then the best edge was clocked in, and the alloy plate locked down to the table with clamps for the remainder of the works, i.e. bringing the raw material to size and all slots, and holes. Brass angle was added to the top edge and riveted with 1/16" snap head copper rivets closed into small countersinks on the inside faces of the frames. The cross members are all machined together (held by toolmakers clamps) ensuring they are all of exactly the same length and then drilled and tapped M2. This bit of botheration ensures the frames can be set up square and it matters little if the tolerance bandwidth is used up, they all end up the same.
raw castings 01.JPG
suspension pattern.JPG
you will have noticed from a previous picture that the actual axleboxes are made from 5/8" square brass with a turned boss, turned in a self centering four jaw chuck (yes you can get them) and then reamed 3MM through. They are then tapped in a little jig to take M2 fixings. I have shown the resin decorative suspension units all home made as was the pattern and mould. These are cast in polurethane resin, require only a quick skim in a fixture with an endmill, the drill centre marks are cast in. All this ensures that like the real thing transmission units axles motrs etc can be dropped without resorting to a total strip down.
Sorry to have gone on but this is a brief explanation of what has to be done when scrtach building to toyr own designs.
And still things go wrong. I had to remove some material in strategic places from the suspension units because I had forgotten the brass angle of the frame and even worse I had to clear the head of a snap head rivet. Trying to be clever see without doulble checking. :D
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Ian
Dirranbandi & Toowoomba Light Railway

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Re: Rail Car for Dirranbandi and Toowoomba Light Railway

Post by -steves- » Thu Apr 11, 2019 4:09 pm

Ian

That is an amazing but of engineering and I am thoroughly impressed with how you have put the chassis together and got them to work so well. Great write up, it must be great as even I could understand it and I if anyone doesn't understand something, it's usually me, lol

Really appreciate you taking the time to give an in depth reply as it gives me ideas for doing my own kind thing and ideas for how to go about it. :thumbup:

I have to ask though, but how on earth did you make the highlighted bit below????? :shock: :shock: :shock:
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suspension pattern.JPG
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Re: Rail Car for Dirranbandi and Toowoomba Light Railway

Post by Oily Rag » Thu Apr 11, 2019 6:03 pm

Hi Steve,
Well Ahem! Those dummy "springs" were turned from brass rod. I used a tipped tool with a triangular insert which is straight on and usually used for cutting threads. Cut in concentric rings to a common depth moving the saddle along the bed quite simply by measurement with a steel rule. I should n't say this as the health and safety are not happy with it but some careful jusicious dressing with a needle file finished the tops. Part them off to length ( I did fractionally over) and then file the back off to a full diameter, that means when assembled the pattern will come out of the mould with no undercut. A bit over length means you can adjust the fit. I did cheat and milled the back off.
The worst part of that job was getting the thing to solder up without previous bits falling off again. You can see quite clearly the flood of solder towards the back of the recesses. I should have used differing temperature solders or solder paste and warmed the whole lot through. There might have been less expletives.
Regards
Ian
Dirranbandi & Toowoomba Light Railway

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