Making a Simple Ceramic Burner.

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Tony Bird
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Making a Simple Ceramic Burner.

Post by Tony Bird » Sat Mar 07, 2015 6:12 pm

Hi,

I had been asked if I thought a ceramic burner could replace a 3 wick meths burner in a fire tube boiler of an '0' gauge model locomotive. Frankly I don't know, and still don't, as the enquirer will have to fit one of my 'Quick to make' ceramic burners to the model to find out.

These burners really are quick to make and require little machining however they can only be relatively small and to set sizes. They use copper stop end pipe fittings as their body. In this case a 28 mm one.


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A ceramic tile that is used on portable gas heaters. These heaters use two types of ceramic tiles, one that is hard and cannot be cut, the other soft and can be. There are several styles of these soft tiles mine was supplied by 'Blackgates Engineering' here in the UK.

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The components; 28 mm stop end, a section of ceramic tile, a piece of 28 mm copper pipe, a piece of K&S brass tubing 1/4" OD and a No.3 gas jet. The piece of wood is a plug for holding the stop end while machining and drilling it.

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Both the stop end and pipe were cut to length using this technique.

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The piece of pipe was hard soldered inside the stop end to support the ceramic when it is in place.

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The hole for the feed tube was drilled. I find lubricated centre drills do this very well in annealed copper. Slow rpm and a lubricant help.

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The feed tube was hard soldered into the body.

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To create the air hole, first a small hole was drilled in the annealed brass tube which was opened out using a broach. For a clear run for the air all burrs must be removed from these holes

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Air hole.

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Turning the jet to a slide fit into the feed tube.

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A trial fit of the jet which has been Loctited to a copper pipe.

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The ceramic tile is cut over size using a piercing saw.

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Turning a shoulder on the ceramic tile.

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Cutting the turned portion of the tile away.

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With small burners I drill extra gas holes in the peaks of the ceramic tile not all the peaks are shown drilled.

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Completed burner.

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First test firing shows there isn't enough air.

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The air holes have been made larger.

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Just about right.

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A confined space test which is how the burner will have to operate in the fire box of the model locomotive.

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Burner on the drawing of the fire box. If it works but doesn't make enough steam a rectangular burner will have about a 50% greater heating area.

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If there are any questions I will try and answer them, I have no training in gas technology, I have just read what others have done and copied them and if the burners didn't work I play with them and have had a certain amount of success.

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Post by Big Jim » Sat Mar 07, 2015 7:08 pm

Thanks for posting this Tony. I am collecting bits to make a start on a vertical boiler 'Idris' type loco and I think this type of burner is just the sort of thing to do the job.
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Post by kandnwlr » Sat Mar 07, 2015 7:12 pm

Big Jim:108850 wrote:Thanks for posting this Tony. I am collecting bits to make a start on a vertical boiler 'Idris' type loco and I think this type of burner is just the sort of thing to do the job.
Me too. Very useful.

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Post by Keith S » Sat Mar 07, 2015 10:12 pm

I'm quite certain this method will prove successful. Some Aster gauge 1 locomotives are available in alcohol or gas fired versions. I have seen gas-fired ones with burners in the firebox just like this one. The boilers have a proper firebox therefore they do not create their own draught, so of course a gas-fired engine of this type would still need a fan to start and a blower. Also I have seen a Markie traction-engine (I think it was a Markie) that could be fired either by coal or gas, and if fired by gas, the grate was made to be easily removed and replaced with just such a gas burner. Again because it was a full locomotive-type boiler, a blower was still required.

I am sure this experiment will be successful, especially with Tony supplying the parts.

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Post by pandsrowe » Sun Mar 08, 2015 8:57 am

Very interesting series of photos that makes me want to experiment as well. One thing though, what size hole did you drill for the gas jet?
I notice that you are using a tangential turning tool, is there any great advantage with this type over a conventional brass turning tool?
Phil

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Post by Tony Bird » Sun Mar 08, 2015 10:17 am

Hi Jim,

Thanks for posting this Tony. I am collecting bits to make a start on a vertical boiler 'Idris' type loco and I think this type of burner is just the sort of thing to do the job.

I have made several ceramic burners for Idris but only from scratch not using a stop end.  I think a stop end for a 42 mm pipe would would work.

Hi Keith,

I'm quite certain this method will prove successful. Some Aster gauge 1 locomotives are available in alcohol or gas fired versions. I have seen gas-fired ones with burners in the firebox just like this one. The boilers have a proper firebox therefore they do not create their own draught, so of course a gas-fired engine of this type would still need a fan to start  and a blower. Also I have seen a Markie traction-engine (I think it was a Markie) that could be fired either by coal or gas, and if fired by gas, the grate was made to be easily removed and replaced with just such a gas burner. Again because it was a full locomotive-type boiler, a blower was still required.

That's reassuring I will pass this information on to Brian who the burner was made for.

Hi Phil,

Very interesting series of photos that makes me want to experiment as well. One thing though,  what size hole did you drill for the gas jet?


A commercial jet was used No. 3, which I think is the smallest available.

I notice that you are using a tangential turning tool, is there any great advantage with this type over a conventional brass turning tool?

I have used Tangential tools for many years.  They are easy to sharpen and it is also easy to alter their rake for different metals also the tool bits are inexpensive you can even use Cobalt instead of HSS.

Regards Tony.

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Post by LnBmad » Tue May 26, 2015 2:00 pm

now this is something i will be having a play with!!!
If it can be made full scale it can be made 16mm

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Post by 11thHour » Wed May 27, 2015 3:23 am

Hi Tony,

Does this type of burner avoid the annoying whistling effect of the 'fire it down the tube' type gas burner?

Tim

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Post by Tony Bird » Wed May 27, 2015 2:57 pm

Hi Tim,

Does this type of burner avoid the annoying whistling effect of the 'fire it down the tube' type gas burner?

Normally ceramic burners make little sound even the plug type that fit in to a flue on a horizontal boiler. Usually a boiler with a flue designed to use a poker burner is to small in diameter to accommodate a ceramic burner.

Regards Tony.

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Post by Boustrophedon » Mon Jul 27, 2015 10:36 pm

What is the advantage of using ceramic, versus say a brass plate full of holes?

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Post by Tony Bird » Tue Jul 28, 2015 10:07 pm

Hi,

What is the advantage of using ceramic, versus say a brass plate full of holes?

For the same given area it produces more heat as the ceramic element itself heats up and produces radiant heat. A similar effect can be created using a fine mesh but it must be able to stand the heat.

Regards Tony.

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Post by Tony Bird » Tue Jul 28, 2015 10:14 pm

Hi,

Just found these photographs which show different shape burners and a couple of very small burners one of which uses a mesh.

Regards Tony.

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