Changing of a Roundhouse Silver Lady - Steamy Clare

[tom_tom_go]

Work has been hinder due to, well work and DIY, however, the whistle is now fitted:



In a previous post I ask about blackening wheels and this process I have now done on my guards van which is in the same pic. It makes a big difference as the wheels are Accucraft 32mm and are very shiny out of the box. I will be blackening the wheels on the SL as well as the running gear.

I am hoping ACME engineering will soon be able to source me a set of spectacle plates which should be a nice touch to this cosmetic change.

Cheers,

Tom

[tom_tom_go]

Finally painted the wheels last week which I think makes a big difference to all the shiny running gear stick out like a soar thumb:





Once I get hold of some etch primer I will be spray painting the steam dome the same colour. Also need to decide whether I am going to have a go at fitting the Swift Sixteen cab windows or get them fitted professionally as it seems quite a job!

Now that we have had our English summer (we only get a few weeks of sun after all) I can get some more work done on this rather than building the railway outside!

Cheers,

Tom
RWLR

[tom_tom_go]

Matt of Berry Hill Works has kindly taken on the job of fitting the Swift Sixteen spectacle plates for me because I don't have the time (yes that's my excuse!)

Meanwhile, I had a go at spray painting the steam dome on the SL as I did not really like the brass look:



I need to do something about the smokebox next!

Cheers,

Tom
RWLR

[tom_tom_go]

I have never been happy with the battery being located on the inside of the cab roof. Even when I managed to find a AAA battery pack it still could be seen and the fact that the cable hinders the opening/closing of the roof just annoyed me!

So here is what I have done:

Battery in the bunker secured with quality velcro pads cut to size:


Futaba switch harness replaces the switch fitted by RH allowing on board charging (you can just see the charge lead in the second picture):



Fits nice and snug and allows sufficient movement for the whistle/regulator servo links:


The roof no longer flips up/down. It can be completely removed from the loco when servicing is required which is what I wanted.

I have a pair of loco cab doors on order from Locoworks so this will hide the battery/wiring and complete the mod

Cheers,

Tom

[TonyW]

Are those the Swift Sixteen spectacles?

[tom_tom_go]

Hi Tony,

No they are the standard RH spectacles fitted to the SL.

Cheers,

Tom

[Mike PVLR]

looking at the foto from underneath i can see 2 servo's. Have you put one on your whistle ? If so was it difficult to do as I have one on order.

[tom_tom_go]

Hi Mike,

Yes that's right. It's a micro servo fitted to a brass plate.

This was fitted for me when I bought the loco from new, however, now that I have had her apart I think I could of done it myself as my confidence has grown in tinkering

If you need help or some pictures PM me and I will send you some.

Cheers,

Tom

[tom_tom_go]

The better weather has got me back into 16mm so I finally got round to seeing what some of my bits from Locoworks look like:





The doors hide the battery I put in the bunker a treat!

Cheers,

Tom

[tom_tom_go]

Forgot this one of the additional oilers:



Keep it up Locoworks

Cheers,

Tom

[tom_tom_go]

I like the Accucraft chopper couplings because they are cheap, however, they for me leave a too bigger gap between wagons so I had a go at making them smaller:





The spacing now is 48mm whereas before it was over 60mm. I have tested this on 2ft 6" curves and I have had no issues.

The safety chain simply glues under the buffer. I might trim the buffer itself to bring it into proportion.

[GTB]

I like the Accucraft chopper couplings because they are cheap, however, they for me leave a too bigger gap between wagons so I had a go at making them smaller:.

That looks good Tom......

For my wagons I just embedded them in the headstock, but your method looks much better for mounting on a loco.

What have you done to shorten them? It looks like you've drilled the pivot further back and then shortened the mounting box to match. Have you also modified the coupler shank?

Graeme

.

[tom_tom_go]

Glad you like them Graeme.

Yes, the coupler shank was cut back and filed so that the edges were rounded off to allow it to swing from left to right. The spring inside the mounting box was also removed (it has made no difference to the performance of the coupler).

Next time I do another one I will post some pics of the mods for you.

[GTB]

Thanks for the info Tom,

I'll have a go at your mod on the loco I'm currently working on. I like the choppers, but they currently stick out too far on my locos and it irritates me.

Graeme

[tom_tom_go]

I had a go at hiding the lubricator drain plug with a toolbox. Would something like this of actually existed - does anyone have any pics?




The shelf is plastic so the set up is only temporary as it needs to go under a bit more.

Also, I wondered if this rag over the door looked alright to hid the gas tank?



Would the crews of engines have the rug covering from the inside instead as I can't find a picture showing what they would of done?

Help please

[Annie]

On New Zealand timber tramways loco crews would hang old sacks and even pieces of corrugated iron on the outside of a cab doorway to turn the prevailing wind and weather. I think hanging the canvas outside looks more logical and if it was raining it would prevent water dripping inside the cab.

As to toolboxes I think loco crews would fit them up wherever they could find a place to put them that they wouldn't fall over, but was still handy to get to.

[spooner]

I would put rolled up blind (rag) on over side.
Keep up the good work.

[tom_tom_go]

Thanks for the comments guys. A rug tied up on the other side will look good. Still not sure about the toolbox, would it not get in the way of the fire grate? (on the real thing that is)

I dyed the piece of cloth some more with coffee and it looks more worn now:

[laalratty]

I fear your toolbox would block access to the ashpan and therefore prevent it being ashed out easily. Also, muck from the footplate would probably run straight into it. Best way of hiding the drain screw is probably painting it with some black paint. Or maybe put something like a steam brake cylinder over it, they are sometimes found under the cab. The sheet over the cab side is quite prototypical though, I've seen pics of them on Isle of Man locos for a start

[Annie]

Oops, I forgot about access to the ashpan Yes a brake cylinder would make more sense to have in that position.