Llewellyn Loco Works #1

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IanC
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Re: Llewellyn Loco Works #1

Post by IanC » Thu Jul 12, 2018 1:24 pm

Impressive engineering and attention to detail.

I am in awe.

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Re: Llewellyn Loco Works #1

Post by Hydrostatic Dazza » Thu Jul 12, 2018 10:39 pm

Peter Butler wrote: Wed Jul 11, 2018 11:56 pm
Hydrostatic Dazza wrote: Wed Jul 11, 2018 11:04 pm It was fun.
Yes, I can see it..... no I can't. Fun must come in a variety of ways and that isn't one. However, if it works for you then that's fine and I really appreciate the attention to detail which will be completely hidden and unappreciated by non-techi morons like me.
ABC jazz digital radio is on low, we have eaten and showered, MAM is down the corridor in her art room watching a utube on how to fit the Slomo to her Lady Ann frames. I click and drag the 3D model onto the 2D page a few times. I print this off. I ponder and experiment a few times, settle on a process and away I go. The results seem to have worked. It was all simple. The punch is made from a drill shank and a previously drilled piece of steel, used for making holes in brass shim. It was relaxing, enjoyable and a nice result. That is satisfying. That is fun. More fun to be added maybe next Tuesday as a good friend of mine does the hot test of # 967's new welded boiler and I will be attending, learn a bit more about the testing process and I will get to toss some black stuff onto its grate. That will also be fun, even if I have to get up at 3.30am and drive for 2 hours to be there for the match to be tossed in and after a long day of fun, the drive home again, but the drive home goes well as one reflects on the day and the things learned. The day will be chased with a couple of glasses of red. :P

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Cheers from Dazza, The Hydrostatic Lubricator 8)
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Re: Llewellyn Loco Works #1

Post by Peter Butler » Thu Jul 12, 2018 10:50 pm

Hydrostatic Dazza wrote: Thu Jul 12, 2018 10:39 pm
Peter Butler wrote: Wed Jul 11, 2018 11:56 pm
Hydrostatic Dazza wrote: Wed Jul 11, 2018 11:04 pm It was fun.
Yes, I can see it..... no I can't. Fun must come in a variety of ways and that isn't one. However, if it works for you then that's fine and I really appreciate the attention to detail which will be completely hidden and unappreciated by non-techi morons like me.
The day will be chased with a couple of glasses of red.
Now we're talking fun!
The best things in life are free.... so why am I doing this?

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Re: Llewellyn Loco Works #1

Post by Hydrostatic Dazza » Thu Jul 12, 2018 10:56 pm

Not a lot done last night, phone calls, customers and heritage railway related, however the front cylinder covers gaskets were cut out and the covers were fitted.
I read in the book that Brian Wilson suggests setting up the exhaust T before the steam T, I take heed of this and as I have not made the exhaust T I will start spinning some brass in the Myford tonight, before I knock off to watch Endeavour. (the only TV I watch all week) Maybe this weekend will be the air test.


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I used an old compass that kicks about the workshop that I used circa 1978 during my schools days, I sharpened one the points to be a bit knife like and used it to scribe the circles, then a touch up with the Exacto scalpel.

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Cheers from Dazza, The Hydrostatic Lubricator 8)
The chances of finding out what’s really going on in the universe are so remote, the only thing to do is hang the sense of it and keep yourself occupied. Douglas Adams

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Re: Llewellyn Loco Works #1

Post by Hydrostatic Dazza » Sun Jul 15, 2018 12:01 am

The Viton O rings did not sit well in the back of the exhaust sealing nuts,

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So I grind a piece of 1/*" HSS to clear out a relief inside the nut. That went well.

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MAM meanwhile is working on her Lady Ann frames.

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Unlike me, she likes to paint

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I assemble, the big event is getting close

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I had to make a trip to that dreadful place called Bunnings, to get some 1/8 ID vinyl tubinng.
Rummage up some air fittings I had, turn a piece of brass and braze it into a fitting, rig it all up.


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I call MAM to come and witness what is about to happen.

To be continued.

Cheers from Dazza, The Hydrostatic Lubricator 8)
The chances of finding out what’s really going on in the universe are so remote, the only thing to do is hang the sense of it and keep yourself occupied. Douglas Adams

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Re: Llewellyn Loco Works #1

Post by Hydrostatic Dazza » Sun Jul 15, 2018 1:16 am

MAM arrives.
I have much apprehension, almost to the point of procrastination, but no rush, never rush and trip over on the last step and thus bite the dust.
Cameras ready.
Full forward is set.
I open the air valve,
Away it races, whoooooooo.......................
Quickly close the air valve. The realisation it actually goes sinks in, yells of

"it lives, it breathes, rise, rise"
I just needed some lightening strikes and a fierce summer storm with the lightening flashes lighting up the Red Room via the sky lights and a better Dr Frankenstein movie voice.
I open the valve gently and away it goes, back it off, the valve is a bit on and off, the workshop compressor is set to 90 psi (the bike workshop an air line is plumbed to the Red Room), so get a G clamp and simply throttle the nylon tube.
Chugga chugga chugga chugga.......................................................................................
.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jt5i34n ... e=youtu.be

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The workshop crew all gather around.

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Forward works, into reverse, yep, just as good

Ponder, will it notch up ?


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Yep, will work on air with the die block 1/3 travel in the link, as per what the CAD model and the Docstader confirmed.
I am chuffed with myself, because I considerably redesigned the published valve gear layout after much consulting of text books and CAD models and the Doctrader valve gear simulator. That was a lot of work and over heating of my brain cells. The story of that is earlier in this thread.
Much
Red was consumed last night, just watching it.

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Cheers from Dazza, The Hydrostatic Lubricator 8)
The chances of finding out what’s really going on in the universe are so remote, the only thing to do is hang the sense of it and keep yourself occupied. Douglas Adams

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Re: Llewellyn Loco Works #1

Post by 11thHour » Sun Jul 15, 2018 6:55 am

well done Daz,

Mech dosen't seem to have any binds or hesitation.
Even I feel relieved,on to steam!

Tim

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Re: Llewellyn Loco Works #1

Post by pandsrowe » Sun Jul 15, 2018 7:25 am

Well done Dazza, running quite smoothly by the look of it. At least there is no sign of red wine being spilt!
Phil

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Re: Llewellyn Loco Works #1

Post by IanC » Sun Jul 15, 2018 8:51 am

Brilliant. You must be well pleased. Rightly so.

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Re: Llewellyn Loco Works #1

Post by tom_tom_go » Sun Jul 15, 2018 9:43 am

What a fantastic achievement, we are all in awe of your abilities!

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Re: Llewellyn Loco Works #1

Post by Peter Butler » Sun Jul 15, 2018 11:06 am

Brilliant.... success first time too! I can't do it myself but have said before I am seriously impressed by those who can. I am equally impressed with the way MAM presents her recommended paint product in her best model pose, also the incredible cleanliness and order of your Red Room. Congratulations to you both.
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Re: Llewellyn Loco Works #1

Post by Hydrostatic Dazza » Sun Jul 15, 2018 11:13 am

Image

to all and your nice responses.

It is pretty smooth, there is a wee tight spot which I tried to remove some time back but it was hard to trace, I think it is the driving crank pins being a wee tad off square, I did not machine a lead in on the pin to assist going in dead square to the crank, when pressed in. Next time, when I make a Burma Railways # 9 I will sort that. Any how I was content to believe it would ease with some running in after an hours running last night it is nearly gone already.
The steam chest covers have a wee leak, just a very slow bubble from two spots . Which means they are not flat enough. With the brown paper gaskets I will give the covers a wee bit treatment with the figure 8 rub over sheet of 600 grit on the surface plate. If that fails then I will use a thicker gasket. There is room on the studs for this. It has gone as well as I could have ever hoped for my first chassis to actually run. Just a few minor things to attend to, and also cross drilling and pining the eccentric cranks (Return cranks, UK) to the crank pins now that I am not going to need to adjust them.
Cheers from Dazza, The Hydrostatic Lubricator 8)
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Re: Llewellyn Loco Works #1

Post by daan » Mon Jul 16, 2018 11:09 am

Congratulations on the airtest Dazza, looks superb!! I guess you used plenty of oil while testing? It is a very good reason to celebrate after all your hard work, it's alive now! :thumbright: :thumbright: :thumbright:
"En schöne Gruess" from an Alpine railway in Holland.

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Re: Llewellyn Loco Works #1

Post by Hydrostatic Dazza » Wed Jul 18, 2018 9:46 pm

I am seeking assistance from the collective wisdom.
Due to discovering the virtues of a Slomo mech after I made up m loco axle/wheel assemblies for this loco and thus having the water pump between the frames I am now fitting a Slomo mech to the Tender of #1 . (If I knew what I know now I would have the pump in the tender, one connection and the Slo in between the loco frames) I am currently working up these drawings and my need is of information on water connections, I will have three connections with the feed pipes being 1/8 " OD with 1.70mm ID and the "Bypass Valve" will masquerade as the tender hand brake.
Can any one give me tips on materials, hose material and a good working connection details ?
Cheers from Dazza, The Hydrostatic Lubricator 8)
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Re: Llewellyn Loco Works #1

Post by bambuko » Fri Jul 20, 2018 5:54 pm

Hydrostatic Dazza wrote: Wed Jul 18, 2018 9:46 pm I am seeking assistance from the collective wisdom.... I am currently working up these drawings and my need is of information on water connections, I will have three connections with the feed pipes being 1/8 " OD with 1.70mm ID and the "Bypass Valve" will masquerade as the tender hand brake.
Can any one give me tips on materials, hose material and a good working connection details ?
Not necessarily wisdom, just searching for similar solution.
Assuming you want quick coupling? I'd look up Rectus range of quick couplers.
02KA Series Micro-Coupling
Temperature Range:
-20oC to +100oC
Standard Seal NBR
Maximum Static Working Pressure:
PB 35 bar (500 psi)
hose I.D. 2mm or 3mm

Alternatively an interesting solution is mentioned in this thread:
http://www.westernthunder.co.uk/index.p ... thur.3588/
Have no way of linking to the specific post in the thread, but I am sure you will enjoy looking through the whole thread (I think it is second or third page...) :)

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Re: Llewellyn Loco Works #1

Post by Keith S » Sat Jul 21, 2018 5:52 pm

I think I like the idea of the "slomo" being in the tender better anyway, if you want my opinion. Better to have the pump directly powered by the locomotive rather than indirectly via the tender's wheels. Also, (even though this might amount to heresy) while I like the slomo idea, I do not like the fact that it is visible between the locomotive frames. People who have electric-powered models of steam engines always go to great and clever lengths to disguise the worm-gears and shafts that, by necessity, have to be mounted between the frames of their models. Now we have people with real steam engines installing a visible geared mechanism between the frames. I too am very impressed with the performance of slomo-equipped engines, but I am less impressed when the slomo is installed in such a way as to make visible an arrangement of gears and chains between the frames.

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Re: Llewellyn Loco Works #1

Post by Hydrostatic Dazza » Sat Jul 21, 2018 11:23 pm

I actually contacted the Down Under Rectus supplier on Friday and they have forwarded me the relevant catalogue pages and I am yet to study them. I think these Rectus couplngs are the way to go. I also signed up the Westernthunder forum, it looks interesting. I am off now to the Red Room to work on the prototype signal operating mech. Cheers Dazza


bambuko wrote: Fri Jul 20, 2018 5:54 pm
Hydrostatic Dazza wrote: Wed Jul 18, 2018 9:46 pm I am seeking assistance from the collective wisdom.... I am currently working up these drawings and my need is of information on water connections, I will have three connections with the feed pipes being 1/8 " OD with 1.70mm ID and the "Bypass Valve" will masquerade as the tender hand brake.
Can any one give me tips on materials, hose material and a good working connection details ?
Not necessarily wisdom, just searching for similar solution.
Assuming you want quick coupling? I'd look up Rectus range of quick couplers.
02KA Series Micro-Coupling
Temperature Range:
-20oC to +100oC
Standard Seal NBR
Maximum Static Working Pressure:
PB 35 bar (500 psi)
hose I.D. 2mm or 3mm

Alternatively an interesting solution is mentioned in this thread:
http://www.westernthunder.co.uk/index.p ... thur.3588/
Have no way of linking to the specific post in the thread, but I am sure you will enjoy looking through the whole thread (I think it is second or third page...) :)
Cheers from Dazza, The Hydrostatic Lubricator 8)
The chances of finding out what’s really going on in the universe are so remote, the only thing to do is hang the sense of it and keep yourself occupied. Douglas Adams

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Re: Llewellyn Loco Works #1

Post by Hydrostatic Dazza » Sat Jul 21, 2018 11:31 pm

Keith S wrote: Sat Jul 21, 2018 5:52 pm I think I like the idea of the "slomo" being in the tender better anyway, if you want my opinion. Better to have the pump directly powered by the locomotive rather than indirectly via the tender's wheels. Also, (even though this might amount to heresy) while I like the slomo idea, I do not like the fact that it is visible between the locomotive frames. People who have electric-powered models of steam engines always go to great and clever lengths to disguise the worm-gears and shafts that, by necessity, have to be mounted between the frames of their models. Now we have people with real steam engines installing a visible geared mechanism between the frames. I too am very impressed with the performance of slomo-equipped engines, but I am less impressed when the slomo is installed in such a way as to make visible an arrangement of gears and chains between the frames.
I hear you, however for me, the # 1 is a realistic speed. I thoroughly enjoy seeing any size steam loco moving in a calm manner. Seeing a very realistic narrow gauge loco doing an impression of the 3 July 1938 run down Stoke Bank makes me want to turn away. Slomo Terry said it is best to mount the Slomo direct to the driver axle and I can understand why this is so, to take the slack in the coupling-drawbar snatching out of the equation.
Cheers from Dazza, The Hydrostatic Lubricator 8)
The chances of finding out what’s really going on in the universe are so remote, the only thing to do is hang the sense of it and keep yourself occupied. Douglas Adams

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Re: Llewellyn Loco Works #1

Post by Keith S » Sun Jul 22, 2018 1:42 am

I am in complete agreement about the realistic motion. I have a flywheel van that gives me some of the advantages of a "slomo", but my locomotive is not radio controlled, so it's not as vital that it be able to stop and start realistically. When it does stop to catch its wind though, I do like it when the slack runs out of all the chains. I can only imagine that's what it used to be like on unequipped trains with buffers and chains.

I am extremely impressed with your building of this locomotive, and I'm sure whatever you decide to do, it will work out very well.

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Re: Llewellyn Loco Works #1

Post by 11thHour » Sun Jul 22, 2018 3:01 pm

Hydrostatic Dazza wrote: Sat Jul 21, 2018 11:23 pm I actually contacted the Down Under Rectus supplier on Friday and they have forwarded me the relevant catalogue pages and I am yet to study them. I think these Rectus couplngs are the way to go.
Hi Dazza,
I am going to explore pneumatic quick connects. Cheaper and smaller ( you only need one fitting) they come in 2 mm tube and work to 3 bar . Temperature range needs exploring. Of course you may be averse to plastics on your loco, I still need to get past that hurdle. That said I am keen to see the result of your enquiries.

Tim

Ps these pneumatic fittings seem to be referred to as ‘push in fittings’

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