Painting Swift Sixteen kits

[CSL]

Can anyone advise good techniques (I'm sure there are more than one) for painting Swift Sixteen resin kits?

I'm working on the unassembled parts of a square tanker and in the interests of getting on with it just grabbed the materials to hand: a small paintbrush from an Airfix starter kit and Revell Aqua Color Acryl Paint.

The larger panels are coming out poorly - the paint seems to pick up colour from the resin and won't produce a smooth finish. A second coat improves the colour but the texture remains visible.

As it happens I'm going to carry on as it rather gives the impression that someone's painted over a corroded surface, which I suspect is what would have been done in real life! But I do fancy some of the other Swift Sixteen kits and would want a smoother paint job on at least some of them.

Any thoughts gratefully received.

[Peter Butler]

From my own limited experience of painting anything cast resin I found it essential to scrub the castings clean of any release agent first. This can be achieved by using 'Cif' or similar and an old toothbrush. It is probably best to do this twice to make sure all agent is completely removed and then allowed to dry naturally.
Then use an acrylic rattle-can primer before any brush painting is attempted. A good quality acrylic paint obviously gives best results and leaves no brush marks.
The best quality acrylics have more pigment and less liquid carrier so the streaks are fewer.

[CSL]

Ah, that makes sense, I think. The discoloration of the paint when it is applied is due to the residue of release agent. I suppose it may have contaminated the pot of paint, but that's not the end of the world.

As I said, I'll carry on with the same poor technique now to get a uniform (bad!) finish all over, but I'll know better for next time.

Many thanks.

[IanC]

I agree with Peter.

I have a kit to build and, on the advice of the manufacturer, purchased a degreaser to remove the release agent. My degreaser came from Pendle Valley Workshop.

It will be used with CIF, which gets used on most of my paint jobs.

Ian

[philipy]

You've probably seen it already, but in case not, Swift Sixteen have a page of handy hints at https://www.swiftsixteen.co.uk/Resin%20Information

[markoteal]

Yes - agree with the advice above - a good clean first, then get it really dry and then I use grey primer from Halfords - I've tried a range of different brands but this seems to work best for me - then you have a great surface to apply your colours to, either from another can or via brushes - used on Swift Sixteen and many other kits and builds

CIMG0242.JPG (307.82 KiB) Viewed 6212 times

[IanC]

Another vote from me for Halfords primer.

Ian

[Lonsdaler]

Another vote from me for Halfords primer.

Ian

Hmm, I've always used the plastic primer rather than the standard one

[IanC]

I use plastic primer, etch primer and general primer as appropriate. All from Halfords.

Ian

[markoteal]

Another vote from me for Halfords primer.

Ian

Hmm, I've always used the plastic primer rather than the standard one

Sure there isn't much difference between the two - I just know I use the normal stuff mainly because as an owner of Landy Defender, I always have a can handy aside the Epsom Green!

[Peter Butler]

Can't knock Halford's products as I've always found them of good quality, although can be more expensive than my preferred choice of primers and finishes...

IMG_5321.JPG (174.19 KiB) Viewed 6180 times

The ordinary grey primer is not shown as I have run out!

I buy these from 'The Range' but I'm sure there are many other outlets near you. They are quick drying, give excellent coverage and superb finish. They are also cheaper at £5.99 for 400ml. The colour variety is more limited but Halford's acrylic can be used on top of these primers.

[IanC]

Useful to know Peter, thanks. I pass my local Range to get to Halfords!

Ian

[markoteal]

I also have Hycote in my collection - their red oxide can be found as a base on many of my wagons - like Peter I find this brand works well with Halfords finishing coats -and is available via Amazon if you are not near The Range or a Halfords store - a bit more expensive from there but by the time you cost in car juice if you are making a specific trip, probably just as cheap

[CSL]

You've probably seen it already, but in case not, Swift Sixteen have a page of handy hints at https://www.swiftsixteen.co.uk/Resin%20Information

Thank you for your misplaced faith that I would have searched the S16 website... Although in my defence I'm not sure I'd have expected painting advice on a page titled "Resin Information". Oh well. Many thanks for linking to it.

But... the first thing it says is that there is no release agent! Also, there is only an oblique reference to primer.

Anyway, I am much better informed now. Thanks to all who have put down their thoughts in response to my enquiry.

[JMORG]

Hi all,

Just to confirm for you that Swift Sixteen DOES NOT use any form of releasing agent during the casting process. The poor paint finish is likely due to a combination of gloss resin finish along with the natural sweat and oils from our skin.
Best practice (as already described by everyone here) is to wash with hot, soapy water followed by a thorough rinse and dry. After this it's best to not handle the parts directly (gloves ect) and use a good quality primer.

Please post pictures when finished! Always handy to see everyone else's work to envy!

[CSL]

Follow-up question: does it make any difference whether the primer and topcoats are applied before assembly?

Some of the range look rather difficult to paint if you need to glue the whole thing together before applying the primer.

[JMORG]

No they can be pre-painted, although I would recommend a matching brush tin just in case.

[Peter Butler]

Follow-up question: does it make any difference whether the primer and topcoats are applied before assembly?

Interesting question this..... Modern paints seem to form a skin which attaches itself to the foundation material, sometimes the skin peels away or does not allow adhesive to penetrate. Would this be a weakness where glue joins might not be as permanent as ones made without paint?