Can anybody link me to 1mm copper snap head rivets please

Do you have a problem? Here is the place to appeal for help
Post Reply
dizzysteamer
Cleaner
Cleaner
Posts: 87
Joined: Sun Jan 01, 2017 11:36 am
Location: Cornwall

Can anybody link me to 1mm copper snap head rivets please

Post by dizzysteamer » Mon Feb 27, 2017 7:40 pm

I also need a couple of rivet snaps to fit 1.8 mm round heads :?

The smallest I can find are 1/16 th shanks :cry:

Steph
Amateur engineer,  frustrated would be locomotive driver😊

DLRdan
Driver
Driver
Posts: 1083
Joined: Wed Nov 12, 2008 12:05 am
Location: Blyth
Contact:

Post by DLRdan » Mon Feb 27, 2017 9:34 pm

Try these, they are slightly smaller than 1mm but might be the closest you can get. Can't help with the small snaps I'm afraid but it may be possible to make some.
Dan,

James: "Dan, can you use your hearing and tell me if that trains coming ?"
DLR
www.freewebs.com/dlrail

User avatar
GTB
Driver
Driver
Posts: 1559
Joined: Sat Mar 05, 2011 2:46 pm
Location: Australia

Re: Can anybody link me to 1mm copper snap head rivets pleas

Post by GTB » Tue Feb 28, 2017 7:12 am

dizzysteamer:123116 wrote:I also need a couple of rivet snaps to fit 1.8 mm round heads  :?

The smallest I can find are 1/16 th shanks  :cry:

Steph
What sort of work do you want them for? Metric rivets and snaps aren't commonly available through the model engineering trade. More likely to be available in Europe if you speak the lingo(s)....

For cosmetic detail I use 3/64" and 1/32" brass solid rivets, 1.2mm and 0.8mm respectively. For long runs in things like water tanks, I prefer to use a press tool to form them in the sheet, otherwise I'd end up in the rubber room.

The mob below list small metric rivets down to 1mm. Not sure what they define as supplying small quantities, or whether they sell the appropriate setting tools.

http://www.sapphireproducts.co.uk/bs4620.htm

There are instructions around on making the tools for setting rivets, but making them for rivets this small might be 'interesting'. K. N. Harris has drawings that could be scaled down in his book 'Model Boilers & Boilermaking'.

Regards,
Graeme

User avatar
Busted Bricks
Trainee Driver
Trainee Driver
Posts: 750
Joined: Sat Jan 22, 2011 9:16 pm
Location: Denmark
Contact:

Post by Busted Bricks » Tue Feb 28, 2017 11:21 am

https://knupfer.info/shop/index.php/deu ... upfer.html

They deliver to UK. If you need help with translation let me know.

dizzysteamer
Cleaner
Cleaner
Posts: 87
Joined: Sun Jan 01, 2017 11:36 am
Location: Cornwall

Post by dizzysteamer » Tue Feb 28, 2017 1:59 pm

Thanks guys, I was beginning to think I would have to make them :)

GTB its for the frame work and chassis on my kerr Stuart Loco

Going to be busy later this week breaking down old bearings looking for 1.8 or close too dia steel balls to make a couple of snaps.

Now it's down to quantity verses price :D

Regards Steph :D
Amateur engineer,  frustrated would be locomotive driver😊

User avatar
LNR
Driver
Driver
Posts: 1542
Joined: Sat Feb 27, 2016 5:26 am
Location: Australia

Post by LNR » Tue Feb 28, 2017 10:24 pm

You sort of beat me to it Steph, I have at least half a dozen home made snaps generally made of 3/8th MILD steel rod, and formed by drilling a 1/16th. or there abouts hole not very deep, and then driving the appropriate sized ball bearing into the end. WEARING SAFETY GLASSES.
I find mild steel to be more durable than commercial snaps I have which are tempered too hard and tend to chip. As you should rotate the snap as your forming the head, if there are slight imperfections they are evened out by the rotation.
Grant.

dizzysteamer
Cleaner
Cleaner
Posts: 87
Joined: Sun Jan 01, 2017 11:36 am
Location: Cornwall

Post by dizzysteamer » Tue Feb 28, 2017 11:17 pm

LNR:123134 wrote:You sort of beat me to it Steph, I have at least half a dozen home made snaps generally made of 3/8th MILD steel rod, and formed by drilling a 1/16th. or there abouts hole not very deep, and then driving the appropriate sized ball bearing into the end. WEARING SAFETY GLASSES.
   I find mild steel to be more durable than commercial snaps I have which are tempered too hard and tend to chip. As you should rotate the snap as your forming the head, if there are slight imperfections they are evened out by the rotation.
Grant.
Hi LNR Thanks for the tip I would not have given that a thought tbh :)

I have some small dia silver steel here I will give that a try but let it down a fair bit after :D I will make up a mild steel snap to and give that a try I have a lot of rivets to snap lol the neighbours will think we have a wood picker in here :lol:

Regards Steph
Amateur engineer,  frustrated would be locomotive driver😊

User avatar
LNR
Driver
Driver
Posts: 1542
Joined: Sat Feb 27, 2016 5:26 am
Location: Australia

Post by LNR » Wed Mar 01, 2017 3:03 am

As a boat builder shipwright by trade and in modeling, if I had a dollar for every rivet I've set I'd be a very wealthy man. I use many steel rivets as well as copper ones ( just finished setting steel rivets before lunch!) and not found the need for anything harder than mild steel. It also allows me to knock the side off some sets to allow me to get right up close to another rivet or a corner etc. Some commercial snaps are very tapered, and have a very thin edge, and being so hard if you over drive or tilt the snap you can end up by damaging the parent surface. Just my ten cents worth.
Grant.

dizzysteamer
Cleaner
Cleaner
Posts: 87
Joined: Sun Jan 01, 2017 11:36 am
Location: Cornwall

Post by dizzysteamer » Tue Mar 07, 2017 8:30 am

Busted Bricks:123126 wrote:https://knupfer.info/shop/index.php/deu ... upfer.html

They deliver to UK. If you need help with translation let me know.
Hi Busted Bricks thought I would let you know your web link came out on top for my purchase I bought enough for two of my own projects and some for my neighbour.
Many thanks for the info

Steph :)
Amateur engineer,  frustrated would be locomotive driver😊

User avatar
Busted Bricks
Trainee Driver
Trainee Driver
Posts: 750
Joined: Sat Jan 22, 2011 9:16 pm
Location: Denmark
Contact:

Post by Busted Bricks » Tue Mar 07, 2017 10:08 am

Steph, glad to help. I knew having lived many years in Germany would come in handy some day :D

Michael

User avatar
Sleeper Agent
Cleaner
Cleaner
Posts: 51
Joined: Tue Oct 10, 2017 7:49 pm
Location: Llanfihangel-Talyllyn

Re: Can anybody link me to 1mm copper snap head rivets please.

Post by Sleeper Agent » Tue Sep 11, 2018 11:36 am

I ordered some brass snap head rivets from Noggin End Metals the other day and they came fast. Looking at the three sizes (1/32", 3/64" and 1/16") in the flesh they're perfick for my detailing needs,
Image
and they also do them in copper as well, though not as small as 1/32" for that material.

https://www.nogginend.com/browse/Brass

Is there any particular advantage of copper over brass?

User avatar
pandsrowe
Trainee Fireman
Trainee Fireman
Posts: 246
Joined: Sat Dec 20, 2014 12:15 pm
Location: West Norfolk, UK

Re: Can anybody link me to 1mm copper snap head rivets please

Post by pandsrowe » Wed Sep 12, 2018 8:01 am

Softer and easier to rivet.
Looking at your photo, it looks to me as if your buffer beam assembly is a resin or 3D printed material which is quite soft in comparison to the rivet. I presume that your riveting is not structural just cosmetic, so why not glue the rivets in place? A lot easier and quicker and you won't end up with flats on the rivet head which is what happens if a rivet snap is not used.
Phil

User avatar
Sleeper Agent
Cleaner
Cleaner
Posts: 51
Joined: Tue Oct 10, 2017 7:49 pm
Location: Llanfihangel-Talyllyn

Re: Can anybody link me to 1mm copper snap head rivets please

Post by Sleeper Agent » Sat Sep 15, 2018 10:20 am

Um yep it's one of PDF's Talyllyn/Dolgoch designs so purely cosmetic detailing. Afraid i'm not following what you mentioned about the rivet head becoming flattened though, the pics of the TR engines doesn't show up any flatness to the rivet heads if that's what you mean (cosmetic as they still are far as I know).
I did consider glueing plastic heads on but the ones provided were too big for a doing a proper recreation
https://i.pinimg.com/originals/6c/35/a5 ... d4cf01.jpg
and same with the Cambrian ones I got a while back concerning the more concentrated areas such as the saddle tank. On top of that PDF's products require a hellish amount of sanding and primes to get smooth, as the material is very tough and so I was apprehensive that any stick on rivets might fall off the semi-primed components or easily be lost during further touch ups or even when trying to remove any glue marks.
It does take a while to space out, drill and then nozzle glue the holes before slipping in the brass I admit but i'm fine with that if I know they're gonna last in the long run and i'm not aware of any stick-ons being as small and neat as the 1/32s anyway.

Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest