Another Wild Rose Project

What is your latest project?
User avatar
-steves-
Administrator
Administrator
Posts: 2412
Joined: Thu Jul 28, 2011 1:50 pm
Location: Cambridge & Peterborough

Re: Another Wild Rose Project

Post by -steves- » Sat May 04, 2019 2:22 pm

Oily Rag wrote: Sat May 04, 2019 2:16 pm Hi Steve,
Very quickly the "stem" is the bit in the middle that screws down to close the valve off, normally with the cone on the end. Hope that helps but must go as I am removing patterns from rubber moulds.
Nope, still lost me I am afraid :( To me the valve is the slide valve in the steam chest which is open and closed by the eccentrics. Unless it's the bit the eccentric rod slides through into the steam chest? Sorry, total newbie to these term :(

Take your time, I am in no rush at all as I have ran out of material to do any more for a little while so it might be a few weeks before I can get things like the 1mm silver rod to join the eccentrics up etc. I do have enough brass to have a go at some of these unions and joints but as I say, absolutely no rush :thumbup:
The buck stops here .......

Ditton Meadow Light Railway (DMLR)
Member of Peterborough and District Association
http://peterborough.16mm.org.uk/

User avatar
GTB
Driver
Driver
Posts: 1550
Joined: Sat Mar 05, 2011 2:46 pm
Location: Australia

Re: Another Wild Rose Project

Post by GTB » Sat May 04, 2019 5:37 pm

-steves- wrote: Sat May 04, 2019 2:22 pm Nope, still lost me I am afraid :( To me the valve is the slide valve in the steam chest which is open and closed by the eccentrics. Unless it's the bit the eccentric rod slides through into the steam chest? Sorry, total newbie to these term :(
English is such an interesting language, especially the engineering version....... :shock:

The type of valves Ian is talking about are the two versions of the gas control valve and the regulator valve. The stem is the bit labelled 'spindle' on the drawings.

As designed it is possible to screw the stem right out of the gas valve body, as the upper part of the stem is the same dia as the threaded part. If the gas tank is full, the pressure will push the stem through the gland as soon as the thread disengages. Frostbite on the finger tips from the escaping gas might be the least of your worries if there is an ignition source in the vicinity.

To prevent the stem of a valve being easily removed it is usual to reduce the diameter of the stem above the threaded part and reduce the size of the hole in the gland nut to match. The gland nut and the stem thread are different in pitch already and will lock if turned at the same time, so with the reduction in stem dia., the only way to remove the stem is to remove the gland nut first.

In case you are wondering, the gland is the seal around the stem that stops anything leaking out of the valve past the stem thread. In the gas valves it's a piece of teflon tape, or silicone tube, wrapped around the stem and compressed by the nut. In the regulator it's meant to be an o-ring.

If you look at the regulator drawing (which is technically a needle valve like the gas valves) on sheet 16, you will see that it is drawn this way and the stem can't be screwed out without removing the gland nut. The upper part of the stem is 2.2mm dia, but the thread on the stem is 6BA (2.7mm) and there is a 2.3mm hole in the 3/16" x 40 ME gland nut. So the regulator valve stem won't come right out if a driver turns it too far for some reason.

I see the gas and regulator valve stems call up stainless steel. I which case you will need HSS dies to cut the threads. Carbon steel dies will go blunt very quickly when threading stainless. There's no reason why the valves should have different threads either. M3 and 6BA are equivalent, just pick one and save the cost of a die.......


Returning to the pipe fittings, you are right, the flat seats are harder to seal. Which is why I always use coned fittings now.

Regards,
Graeme

User avatar
-steves-
Administrator
Administrator
Posts: 2412
Joined: Thu Jul 28, 2011 1:50 pm
Location: Cambridge & Peterborough

Re: Another Wild Rose Project

Post by -steves- » Wed May 29, 2019 3:27 pm

Been a bit quiet on this as I got a tad disheartened with it as when I tried to run it on air a few weeks ago I failed miserably. I tried to time it etc etc etc many times with no success. Kinda gave up for a while and left it on a back burner, but also to be fair, there has been a ton of other things on recently including many a BBQ and a small open day for family and a couple of friends, days out here and there.

Well, today I tried again, it still isn't right, far from it, however a small step forwards as it eventually ran air. I would suggest turning the sound off as the compressor is very noisy, however if you like loud noises and decide to leave the sound on, you may also hear a clunking noise coming from the engine, not sure what this is as yet but I have not sat down and looked yet either. I had it all running as smooth as silk at one point this morning, but since putting it back together it has a few tight spots again, arghhh! Still smiling though as it's so amazing to see something you have cobbled together out of blocks of metal suddenly spring into some sort of life and take flight, well sort of, it turned the wheels :lol: :thumbup:

Last edited by -steves- on Thu May 30, 2019 8:49 am, edited 1 time in total.
The buck stops here .......

Ditton Meadow Light Railway (DMLR)
Member of Peterborough and District Association
http://peterborough.16mm.org.uk/

User avatar
FWLR
Driver
Driver
Posts: 4262
Joined: Sat Aug 05, 2017 9:45 am
Location: Preston, Lancashire, UK

Re: Another Wild Rose Project

Post by FWLR » Thu May 30, 2019 8:05 am

It sounds and looks ok to me Steve...But then again I haven't got my earphones in at the moment... :lol: :lol: :lol:

Could you fit an air supply direct to it. You could then hear it better and it may round smoother. It may not, but no harm in trying is there.

User avatar
GTB
Driver
Driver
Posts: 1550
Joined: Sat Mar 05, 2011 2:46 pm
Location: Australia

Re: Another Wild Rose Project

Post by GTB » Thu May 30, 2019 10:50 am

-steves- wrote: Wed May 29, 2019 3:27 pm you may also hear a clunking noise coming from the engine, not sure what this is as yet but I have not sat down and looked yet either. I had it all running as smooth as silk at one point this morning, but since putting it back together it has a few tight spots again,
I've found it pays to walk away if things aren't going right. While you mull it over in the back of your mind, eventually the answer comes to you........

Well done, you must have made the parts properly, or it would never have worked. If it has run well once, then it can be made to run again. ;)

Does the chassis turn over smoothly by hand when not connected to the compressor? If not, you may have reversed a wheelset, or swapped rods when reassembling things. It shouldn't make a difference, but sometimes the tolerances add up the wrong way and some parts have only one orientation where everything works smoothly.

If the wheels and rods aren't binding, then it may be the valve timing that is out. With these little locos, the valves should be set line for line. Unlike larger scale and full size locos, any advance will make them run lumpy, as they don't have the weight and therefore momentum to compress the steam (or air) if the valve opens early, before the crankpin is at dead centre.

Also check that the piston rods are pushed into the crossheads far enough and aren't hitting a cylinder end cover. Been there.....

I've never built a slip eccentric loco, but FWIW my valve setting procedure should work.

- Centre the slide valve first, by adjusting the valve position on the valve rod so the valve openings are the same at each end, in both forward and reverse, or as near as you can get them. At this point it doesn't matter exactly where the eccentric is set.

- Only adjust the timing by adjusting the eccentric (or the stop collar in the case of slip eccentrics) once the valve has been centred. The valve should be just starting to open as the crankpin is at dead centre at both ends of the piston stroke.

- Once one side is timed, then repeat on the other side.

I use oiled brown paper gaskets for steam chest joints, as the gaskets don't have to be replaced each time the valve chest is opened while setting up valve gear.

Regards,
Graeme

User avatar
-steves-
Administrator
Administrator
Posts: 2412
Joined: Thu Jul 28, 2011 1:50 pm
Location: Cambridge & Peterborough

Re: Another Wild Rose Project

Post by -steves- » Thu May 30, 2019 2:19 pm

GTB wrote: Thu May 30, 2019 10:50 am
I've found it pays to walk away if things aren't going right. While you mull it over in the back of your mind, eventually the answer comes to you........

Well done, you must have made the parts properly, or it would never have worked. If it has run well once, then it can be made to run again. ;)

Does the chassis turn over smoothly by hand when not connected to the compressor? If not, you may have reversed a wheelset, or swapped rods when reassembling things. It shouldn't make a difference, but sometimes the tolerances add up the wrong way and some parts have only one orientation where everything works smoothly.

If the wheels and rods aren't binding, then it may be the valve timing that is out. With these little locos, the valves should be set line for line. Unlike larger scale and full size locos, any advance will make them run lumpy, as they don't have the weight and therefore momentum to compress the steam (or air) if the valve opens early, before the crankpin is at dead centre.

Also check that the piston rods are pushed into the crossheads far enough and aren't hitting a cylinder end cover. Been there.....

I've never built a slip eccentric loco, but FWIW my valve setting procedure should work.

- Centre the slide valve first, by adjusting the valve position on the valve rod so the valve openings are the same at each end, in both forward and reverse, or as near as you can get them. At this point it doesn't matter exactly where the eccentric is set.

- Only adjust the timing by adjusting the eccentric (or the stop collar in the case of slip eccentrics) once the valve has been centred. The valve should be just starting to open as the crankpin is at dead centre at both ends of the piston stroke.

- Once one side is timed, then repeat on the other side.

I use oiled brown paper gaskets for steam chest joints, as the gaskets don't have to be replaced each time the valve chest is opened while setting up valve gear.

Regards,
Graeme
Hi Graeme

That's exactly why I put it down and gave it some time. Generally on this sort of thing I sit and think about it (over days / weeks months) and then suddenly ways of fixing the problem just seem to enter my head as does the incentive to carry on with the task.

Something is binding, not sure what. All the parts have gone on the same way as they are all marked, I learnt that early on. However, the timing could be a definite issue as all I did was move the stop collars until it actually ran. I will have a look at some point once the enthusiasm jumps back into life. I do think one of the pistons is hitting one of the cylinder ends by the sounds of things, I know it was a major issue at one point but I thought I had rectified that bit a while back.

Never thought if using gaskets, nice idea.

I think once I get some O rings into all the right places that might help too? Still need to buy those as yet hence it running without them for now.

The timing guide will be very helpful and that is what I will use next time I have it all apart :)
The buck stops here .......

Ditton Meadow Light Railway (DMLR)
Member of Peterborough and District Association
http://peterborough.16mm.org.uk/

User avatar
-steves-
Administrator
Administrator
Posts: 2412
Joined: Thu Jul 28, 2011 1:50 pm
Location: Cambridge & Peterborough

Re: Another Wild Rose Project

Post by -steves- » Thu May 30, 2019 2:21 pm

FWLR wrote: Thu May 30, 2019 8:05 am It sounds and looks ok to me Steve...But then again I haven't got my earphones in at the moment... :lol: :lol: :lol:

Could you fit an air supply direct to it. You could then hear it better and it may round smoother. It may not, but no harm in trying is there.
Thanks Rod

I did make an adaptor for my small spraying compressor yesterday but it could only get 10 psi and it wasn't enough to spin the little loco over. I think this is down to the lack of O rings which I need to purchase at some point.
The buck stops here .......

Ditton Meadow Light Railway (DMLR)
Member of Peterborough and District Association
http://peterborough.16mm.org.uk/

User avatar
GTB
Driver
Driver
Posts: 1550
Joined: Sat Mar 05, 2011 2:46 pm
Location: Australia

Re: Another Wild Rose Project

Post by GTB » Thu May 30, 2019 5:16 pm

-steves- wrote: Thu May 30, 2019 2:19 pm I think once I get some O rings into all the right places that might help too? Still need to buy those as yet hence it running without them for now.
I'm surprised it runs at all without piston rings......... :shock:

There will be major air leaks until the piston rings, glands and gaskets are all fitted, which is why your airbrush compressor ran out of puff. I wind teflon tape around the valve/piston rods and tighten the gland nut to pack it down, as I find the teflon has less drag on the rods than using o-rings in the glands. The loco I'm currently.building turns over at 5 psi on air, now I've got the timing right.

I only used liquid gaskets when I first started out, 'Form-a-Gasket' at first, then 'Loctite 515', but after a while changed to paper gaskets for steam chests. I got tired of cleaning old gasket material off and applying more every time I had to reset the valves.

I can buy my o-rings locally, as there are a couple of bearing suppliers in an industrial area about 10 mins away.

Regards,
Graeme

User avatar
-steves-
Administrator
Administrator
Posts: 2412
Joined: Thu Jul 28, 2011 1:50 pm
Location: Cambridge & Peterborough

Re: Another Wild Rose Project

Post by -steves- » Thu May 30, 2019 5:35 pm

GTB wrote: Thu May 30, 2019 5:16 pm
-steves- wrote: Thu May 30, 2019 2:19 pm I think once I get some O rings into all the right places that might help too? Still need to buy those as yet hence it running without them for now.
I'm surprised it runs at all without piston rings......... :shock:

There will be major air leaks until the piston rings, glands and gaskets are all fitted, which is why your airbrush compressor ran out of puff. I wind teflon tape around the valve/piston rods and tighten the gland nut to pack it down, as I find the teflon has less drag on the rods than using o-rings in the glands. The loco I'm currently.building turns over at 5 psi on air, now I've got the timing right.

I only used liquid gaskets when I first started out, 'Form-a-Gasket' at first, then 'Loctite 515', but after a while changed to paper gaskets for steam chests. I got tired of cleaning old gasket material off and applying more every time I had to reset the valves.

I can buy my o-rings locally, as there are a couple of bearing suppliers in an industrial area about 10 mins away.

Regards,
Graeme
Hi Graeme

What do you think I should use as a piston ring? I can't seem to find it on the sheets, probably there somewhere I would think. The pistons are a very good fit, each one was made with a very tight tolerance, you would think they are the same, but pretty sure by the time I finished with the reamer they we marginally different, lol. No O rings in the glands and yes it leaks air like there is no tomorrow, however all the steam chest joints don't seem to leak as I added some oil as I was running it and it only came out of all the gland joints.

It does seem to be passing lots of the steam straight through to the exhaust though, I have lapped in the valve and it's mating joint but I am not sure how to check is have the air isn't just bypassing the pistons all together?

I like the teflon tape idea, is that the same as PTFE tape? If so I have loads of that so we are in business there.

Thank you
The buck stops here .......

Ditton Meadow Light Railway (DMLR)
Member of Peterborough and District Association
http://peterborough.16mm.org.uk/

User avatar
tom_tom_go
Driver
Driver
Posts: 4824
Joined: Wed Feb 23, 2011 3:08 am
Location: Kent, UK
Contact:

Re: Another Wild Rose Project

Post by tom_tom_go » Thu May 30, 2019 5:51 pm

I was going to suggest Teflon tape but I thought it was not the the right thing to do!

Cookie
Cleaner
Cleaner
Posts: 24
Joined: Sat Apr 06, 2019 7:17 pm

Re: Another Wild Rose Project

Post by Cookie » Thu May 30, 2019 10:45 pm

Polytetraflouroethylene, hope i got that right, Teflon is the Dupont trade name, the same stuff as in non-stick pans and fishing pole bushes

User avatar
FWLR
Driver
Driver
Posts: 4262
Joined: Sat Aug 05, 2017 9:45 am
Location: Preston, Lancashire, UK

Re: Another Wild Rose Project

Post by FWLR » Fri May 31, 2019 8:47 am

-steves- wrote: Thu May 30, 2019 2:21 pm
FWLR wrote: Thu May 30, 2019 8:05 am It sounds and looks ok to me Steve...But then again I haven't got my earphones in at the moment... :lol: :lol: :lol:

Could you fit an air supply direct to it. You could then hear it better and it may round smoother. It may not, but no harm in trying is there.
Thanks Rod

I did make an adaptor for my small spraying compressor yesterday but it could only get 10 psi and it wasn't enough to spin the little loco over. I think this is down to the lack of O rings which I need to purchase at some point.
Opps.. :roll: Didn't have may glasses on either.. [it may round smoother]...It should have been ( it may run smoother )... :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

Still your'e getting some excellent advice Steve, stick with it and we will see a fantastic loco at the end, I'am sure of it. :thumbright: :thumbright:

User avatar
GTB
Driver
Driver
Posts: 1550
Joined: Sat Mar 05, 2011 2:46 pm
Location: Australia

Re: Another Wild Rose Project

Post by GTB » Fri May 31, 2019 3:59 pm

-steves- wrote: Thu May 30, 2019 5:35 pm What do you think I should use as a piston ring? I can't seem to find it on the sheets, probably there somewhere I would think.
There are no o-ring details anywhere in the drawings, that I can find. The Idris model has those details in the article that was published with the drawings, but I don't think there is an article that goes with Wild Rose 3.

It looks like the piston rings are intended to be metric o-rings and a 7mm x 1.5mm o-ring seems to be suitable. Note metric o-rings are specified by ID and cross section for some reason, so the OD will be 10mm. Personally I always use Viton o-rings on pistons, as they are lower friction than silicone ones.

O-rings used as piston rings need a wider groove so they can roll a bit as the piston moves back and forth, so the groove in the piston as drawn needs to be widened to 2mm. The piston has to come out anyway to fit the ring, so the groove can be widened with a parting off tool and the piston rod is a convenient way to hold it in the chuck.

I'm not sure what sort of gland seal was intended and there's nothing on the drawings, but I'd use teflon tape instead of an o-ring in any case. Yes, teflon tape is the same as ptfe tape, as used by plumbers for thread sealing. If I asked for ptfe tape in the plumbing section of my local hardware store, I'd get a blank look........

Not sure how you'd go about packing the pistons with ptfe tape, as I've never tried it. Solid ptfe bar is available and machines easily, so it is possible to make pistons from it and both Merlin and Aster have used it that way. In the 'good old days' graphited asbestos string was used as piston and gland packing and there's a modern equivalent available. I've got some graphite packing made by Klinger, but have never gotten around to using it.

If your pistons are a very good fit in the cylinders, oil will provide some seal, that's what low pressure oscillators rely on......

Steam/air escaping up the exhaust usually indicates a sticking valve, so check the d-valves can slide freely on the valve rod and drive clamp. It could also be air getting past the pistons, but piston rings will fix that.

You'll be surprised how small a gap 40psi steam can leak through, so fit gaskets of some sort when you are reassembling the cylinders and valve chests. Modern liquid gaskets like Loctite 515, or one of the automotive ones, work well and are easy to use, but are a bit of a pain to dismantle. Oiled paper gaskets are a pain to make, but easy to dismantle. As with most things you pay your money and make your choice.......

Regards,
Graeme

User avatar
-steves-
Administrator
Administrator
Posts: 2412
Joined: Thu Jul 28, 2011 1:50 pm
Location: Cambridge & Peterborough

Re: Another Wild Rose Project

Post by -steves- » Fri May 31, 2019 4:15 pm

GTB wrote: Fri May 31, 2019 3:59 pm
-steves- wrote: Thu May 30, 2019 5:35 pm What do you think I should use as a piston ring? I can't seem to find it on the sheets, probably there somewhere I would think.
There are no o-ring details anywhere in the drawings, that I can find. The Idris model has those details in the article that was published with the drawings, but I don't think there is an article that goes with Wild Rose 3.

It looks like the piston rings are intended to be metric o-rings and a 7mm x 1.5mm o-ring seems to be suitable. Note metric o-rings are specified by ID and cross section for some reason, so the OD will be 10mm. Personally I always use Viton o-rings on pistons, as they are lower friction than silicone ones.

O-rings used as piston rings need a wider groove so they can roll a bit as the piston moves back and forth, so the groove in the piston as drawn needs to be widened to 2mm. The piston has to come out anyway to fit the ring, so the groove can be widened with a parting off tool and the piston rod is a convenient way to hold it in the chuck.

I'm not sure what sort of gland seal was intended and there's nothing on the drawings, but I'd use teflon tape instead of an o-ring in any case. Yes, teflon tape is the same as ptfe tape, as used by plumbers for thread sealing. If I asked for ptfe tape in the plumbing section of my local hardware store, I'd get a blank look........

Not sure how you'd go about packing the pistons with ptfe tape, as I've never tried it. Solid ptfe bar is available and machines easily, so it is possible to make pistons from it and both Merlin and Aster have used it that way. In the 'good old days' graphited asbestos string was used as piston and gland packing and there's a modern equivalent available. I've got some graphite packing made by Klinger, but have never gotten around to using it.

If your pistons are a very good fit in the cylinders, oil will provide some seal, that's what low pressure oscillators rely on......

Steam/air escaping up the exhaust usually indicates a sticking valve, so check the d-valves can slide freely on the valve rod and drive clamp. It could also be air getting past the pistons, but piston rings will fix that.

You'll be surprised how small a gap 40psi steam can leak through, so fit gaskets of some sort when you are reassembling the cylinders and valve chests. Modern liquid gaskets like Loctite 515, or one of the automotive ones, work well and are easy to use, but are a bit of a pain to dismantle. Oiled paper gaskets are a pain to make, but easy to dismantle. As with most things you pay your money and make your choice.......

Regards,
Graeme
Hi Graeme

You are a real live "Oracle" resource and I can not thank you enough. Yourself and Ian have been invaluable in the build so far. :thumbup:

Thank you :)
The buck stops here .......

Ditton Meadow Light Railway (DMLR)
Member of Peterborough and District Association
http://peterborough.16mm.org.uk/

User avatar
GTB
Driver
Driver
Posts: 1550
Joined: Sat Mar 05, 2011 2:46 pm
Location: Australia

Re: Another Wild Rose Project

Post by GTB » Sun Jun 02, 2019 12:48 pm

Forgot to mention..... :roll:

O-rings can vary a little in dimensions, so if the piston is too tight and hard to move when the o-ring is fitted, even when oiled, you may also have to shave a little off the depth of the groove in the piston.

It's one of those goldilocks things, the o-ring fitting has to be just right. 8)

Graeme

User avatar
-steves-
Administrator
Administrator
Posts: 2412
Joined: Thu Jul 28, 2011 1:50 pm
Location: Cambridge & Peterborough

Re: Another Wild Rose Project

Post by -steves- » Mon Jun 03, 2019 3:02 pm

GTB wrote: Sun Jun 02, 2019 12:48 pm Forgot to mention..... :roll:

O-rings can vary a little in dimensions, so if the piston is too tight and hard to move when the o-ring is fitted, even when oiled, you may also have to shave a little off the depth of the groove in the piston.

It's one of those goldilocks things, the o-ring fitting has to be just right. 8)

Graeme
The PTFE tape worked well for all the piston rods and valve rods so thats cool. Not so cool I managed to break a 10ba bolt in the rear cylinder end where the slides are bolted, so it means I need to remake that again as well as the screw that goes on it :( Not sure about piston rings as yet, but I am sure I will sort out something as we go along, lol :thumbup:
The buck stops here .......

Ditton Meadow Light Railway (DMLR)
Member of Peterborough and District Association
http://peterborough.16mm.org.uk/

User avatar
GTB
Driver
Driver
Posts: 1550
Joined: Sat Mar 05, 2011 2:46 pm
Location: Australia

Re: Another Wild Rose Project

Post by GTB » Mon Jun 03, 2019 4:26 pm

-steves- wrote: Mon Jun 03, 2019 3:02 pm Not so cool I managed to break a 10ba bolt in the rear cylinder end where the slides are bolted, so it means I need to remake that again as well as the screw that goes on it.
Been there, done that, got the t-shirt. It doesn't take much force to shear the head off a 10BA screw......

They usually shear just below the head, so if there is enough thread left to grip, it may be easy to unscrew the stub of thread, as it isn't usually under any tension once the head is off.

Graeme

User avatar
-steves-
Administrator
Administrator
Posts: 2412
Joined: Thu Jul 28, 2011 1:50 pm
Location: Cambridge & Peterborough

Re: Another Wild Rose Project

Post by -steves- » Mon Jun 03, 2019 4:49 pm

GTB wrote: Mon Jun 03, 2019 4:26 pm
-steves- wrote: Mon Jun 03, 2019 3:02 pm Not so cool I managed to break a 10ba bolt in the rear cylinder end where the slides are bolted, so it means I need to remake that again as well as the screw that goes on it.
Been there, done that, got the t-shirt. It doesn't take much force to shear the head off a 10BA screw......

They usually shear just below the head, so if there is enough thread left to grip, it may be easy to unscrew the stub of thread, as it isn't usually under any tension once the head is off.

Graeme
Unfortunately not, the bolt bottomed out on the glange thread below it, the bolt was about .3mm too long and snapped off seemingly just below the top of the hole and is under full tension :( From what I can see no way to get it out at all :( Ah well, put it down for a few days and go back to it next week, again, lol :thumbup:
The buck stops here .......

Ditton Meadow Light Railway (DMLR)
Member of Peterborough and District Association
http://peterborough.16mm.org.uk/

Maple
Trainee Fireman
Trainee Fireman
Posts: 175
Joined: Sat Jun 29, 2013 3:17 pm
Location: Bournemouth

Re: Another Wild Rose Project

Post by Maple » Wed Jun 05, 2019 12:22 pm

I am pretty sure you can desolve the bolt with aluminium phosphate (i think) and it does not affect the brass, i have done this before in a dish on the stove. be warned, it smells.....
'Professional Bodge artist '

User avatar
GTB
Driver
Driver
Posts: 1550
Joined: Sat Mar 05, 2011 2:46 pm
Location: Australia

Re: Another Wild Rose Project

Post by GTB » Wed Jun 05, 2019 2:40 pm

Maple wrote: Wed Jun 05, 2019 12:22 pm I am pretty sure you can desolve the bolt with aluminium phosphate (i think)
Aluminium Sulphate, otherwise known as Alum, is the chemical you are thinking of......

It forms a weak acid solution when dissolved in water.

Graeme

Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: -steves- and 6 guests