3 D Printing 16mm models
Re: 3 D Printing 16mm models
The wagonette is really nice - if it is now strong enough to survive handling despite its delicate appearance then you've certainly hit a good balance that gets you very close to the scale and intricacy of the real thing!
Re: 3 D Printing 16mm models
Great printing Trevor. It's a master class in 3D printing...
ROD
Life is so easy when I run my trains.
https://gardenrails.org/forum/viewtopic ... 41&t=11364
https://www.youtube.com/@fairywoodlightrailway
Life is so easy when I run my trains.
https://gardenrails.org/forum/viewtopic ... 41&t=11364
https://www.youtube.com/@fairywoodlightrailway
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Re: 3 D Printing 16mm models
I have now drawn up the horses "tack", or at least an approximation to it. This is what I am currently printing:
and in case you are wondering how I created it:
The elements are basic circles pulled to give thickness and then distorted to make them elliptical. They are then superimposed on the horse so that the centre of the circle is inside the horse. After that it was just a matter of cutting away some parts of each element and distorting others.
Perhaps the cleverest bit is the collar. That is a combination of making a circle, turning it into an ellipse, and then pulling for 1 mm. Change the size and pull again. repeating that to make the basic shape. Making the top thinner was done by grabbing one of the ellipsis and rotating it to make the top thinner. Then repeating that with the next ellipse. Finally the whole thing was treated using the soften/smooth edges window.
Trevor
and in case you are wondering how I created it:
The elements are basic circles pulled to give thickness and then distorted to make them elliptical. They are then superimposed on the horse so that the centre of the circle is inside the horse. After that it was just a matter of cutting away some parts of each element and distorting others.
Perhaps the cleverest bit is the collar. That is a combination of making a circle, turning it into an ellipse, and then pulling for 1 mm. Change the size and pull again. repeating that to make the basic shape. Making the top thinner was done by grabbing one of the ellipsis and rotating it to make the top thinner. Then repeating that with the next ellipse. Finally the whole thing was treated using the soften/smooth edges window.
Trevor
Re: 3 D Printing 16mm models
Nice Trevor...
ROD
Life is so easy when I run my trains.
https://gardenrails.org/forum/viewtopic ... 41&t=11364
https://www.youtube.com/@fairywoodlightrailway
Life is so easy when I run my trains.
https://gardenrails.org/forum/viewtopic ... 41&t=11364
https://www.youtube.com/@fairywoodlightrailway
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Re: 3 D Printing 16mm models
So the result of the overnight print (7.5 hours by the way):
I printed it upside down because this is how I have achieved success with horses in the past. You can see if you look carefully a light line on the horses neck and another parallel on his "chest". It is where the print has shrunk during the printing process. I will try a higher extruder temperature next time. The problem with printing them this way up is that the roughest parts of the finished item are on the top where they are so obvious.
And with the support filament removed and a bit of a clean up:
There are some errors. Firstly the harness around the horses chest has a gap just in front of the girth. Secondly the collar is at an angle. Very difficult to control how you rotate a curved component. I will fix these errors and try again - perhaps the right way up to see what happens.
Trevor
I printed it upside down because this is how I have achieved success with horses in the past. You can see if you look carefully a light line on the horses neck and another parallel on his "chest". It is where the print has shrunk during the printing process. I will try a higher extruder temperature next time. The problem with printing them this way up is that the roughest parts of the finished item are on the top where they are so obvious.
And with the support filament removed and a bit of a clean up:
There are some errors. Firstly the harness around the horses chest has a gap just in front of the girth. Secondly the collar is at an angle. Very difficult to control how you rotate a curved component. I will fix these errors and try again - perhaps the right way up to see what happens.
Trevor
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Re: 3 D Printing 16mm models
I would cut the horse in half and print the bottom half legs up and the top half head up and bond the two parts together. This way you get a good finish for the top side and the bottom side. I do this with my figures, especially sitting ones, cutting the body at an angle to minimise support required for the arms. Also reduces the re-print time if something goes wrong on one half of the object.Trevor Thompson wrote: ↑Fri Nov 27, 2020 5:34 pm The problem with printing them this way up is that the roughest parts of the finished item are on the top where they are so obvious.
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Re: 3 D Printing 16mm models
Now that is impressive.
Bookmarked for future reference
Rik
Bookmarked for future reference
Rik
Re: 3 D Printing 16mm models
That horse is very impressive and really looks the part.
Horses that usually pulled carts did have rough hair on their bodies Trevor. My Dad always kept it longer on their bodies, he said it helped to reduce the rubbing of the tack on the horse. His horses never had any trouble that came with rubbed skin that could get infected...
Horses that usually pulled carts did have rough hair on their bodies Trevor. My Dad always kept it longer on their bodies, he said it helped to reduce the rubbing of the tack on the horse. His horses never had any trouble that came with rubbed skin that could get infected...
ROD
Life is so easy when I run my trains.
https://gardenrails.org/forum/viewtopic ... 41&t=11364
https://www.youtube.com/@fairywoodlightrailway
Life is so easy when I run my trains.
https://gardenrails.org/forum/viewtopic ... 41&t=11364
https://www.youtube.com/@fairywoodlightrailway
Re: 3 D Printing 16mm models
I haven't had time to actually look properly at what is involved, although I suspect it is way beyond me ( and my computer!). However the demo's from this process of creating a full 3d figure from a 2d photo, are amazing.
https://shunsukesaito.github.io/PIFuHD/
https://shunsukesaito.github.io/PIFuHD/
Philip
Re: 3 D Printing 16mm models
Just a thought, just print the horse, in two parts possibly as suggested printing the collar and tack separately and add detailing.Trevor Thompson wrote: ↑Fri Nov 27, 2020 5:34 pm There are some errors. Firstly the harness around the horses chest has a gap just in front of the girth. Secondly the collar is at an angle. Very difficult to control how you rotate a curved component. I will fix these errors and try again - perhaps the right way up to see what happens.
Trevor
Re: 3 D Printing 16mm models
Impressive!!philipy wrote: ↑Sun Nov 29, 2020 8:59 am I haven't had time to actually look properly at what is involved, although I suspect it is way beyond me ( and my computer!). However the demo's from this process of creating a full 3d figure from a 2d photo, are amazing.
https://shunsukesaito.github.io/PIFuHD/
Rik
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Re: 3 D Printing 16mm models
Firstly creating 3 D images from a photo. That looks incredible! The problem will be in getting to use it and actually making printed models from it. However the potential is beyond my wildest imaginings - just think of people in historic photos and making models of them! I have had a quick look and I am sure it isn't that straight forward.
My trials with make human and blender are hung pending working out how to use clothes others have prepared, and perhaps making specific clothes for the victorian figures I want to populate my railway. I can make a figure. I can change its posture. I can print it. So far so good.
The horse. I have printed it the right way up - and it has worked. I thin my previous failures involved PLA rather than ABS, tree like supports and a more slender horse - more of a thoroughbred. This looks much more like a carthorse.
Printing in two parts seems a good idea - the supports are then in the middle and get glued together. As far as printing the tack separately - it won't work in this case. Look back at the screenshot showing the tack and you will see that the harnessing is formed from solid sections which are superimposed on the horse. The solid sections go through the horse, and only print because the slicing software recognises that only the outer surface is printable - the rest is solid. Well by slicing software does this.
I am now working on a" Phaeton" which is a form of carriage which I think is most likely to be the sort of carriage which the carriage wagon would have been built to carry. I also have the carriage wagon drawn up. There is a drawing of it in the Spooner Album. I think a Dandy wagon has to go with it to carry the horse. Drawing for that in the 7mm Association book of Festiniog Historic drawings.
So more of those later
Trevor
My trials with make human and blender are hung pending working out how to use clothes others have prepared, and perhaps making specific clothes for the victorian figures I want to populate my railway. I can make a figure. I can change its posture. I can print it. So far so good.
The horse. I have printed it the right way up - and it has worked. I thin my previous failures involved PLA rather than ABS, tree like supports and a more slender horse - more of a thoroughbred. This looks much more like a carthorse.
Printing in two parts seems a good idea - the supports are then in the middle and get glued together. As far as printing the tack separately - it won't work in this case. Look back at the screenshot showing the tack and you will see that the harnessing is formed from solid sections which are superimposed on the horse. The solid sections go through the horse, and only print because the slicing software recognises that only the outer surface is printable - the rest is solid. Well by slicing software does this.
I am now working on a" Phaeton" which is a form of carriage which I think is most likely to be the sort of carriage which the carriage wagon would have been built to carry. I also have the carriage wagon drawn up. There is a drawing of it in the Spooner Album. I think a Dandy wagon has to go with it to carry the horse. Drawing for that in the 7mm Association book of Festiniog Historic drawings.
So more of those later
Trevor
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Re: 3 D Printing 16mm models
So the horse the right way round - straight out of the printer:
and with the support filament knocked off:
I will try printing something in two parts soon. Probably most appropriate for a figure. This horse has printed very cleanly in one piece. Any roughness is underneaths where it isn't visible.
And the carriage wagon with the Phaeton sitting on it:
When you have drawn the first thing it is easy to move on to the next because you are not starting from scratch. So the Phaeton is based on the wagonette - same wheels, axles, undercarriage. The body is new, and the drivers seat has been modified. The hood is completely new - and I am quite pleased with the way that has turned out. It consists of the same section, copied, pasted and rotated. Every other one has been made smaller all around. Taken together it seems reasonably convincing (to me).
The wagon frame is based on the slate wagon body, with a deck from the coal wagon. The axle box is based on the slate wagon one, modified. The coupling is from the Ashbury 4 wheel coach.
You might remember that I use a coupling based on that fitted to coach 15 and 16 when they were new for my coaches. As something that I think would be used with coaches that seems vaguely appropriate for this wagon (even if it is actually wrong). However I might use hook and link couplings on the Dandy wagon as I think the coach coupling would be inappropriate on something which would have been used mostly as a coal or goods wagon by the 1880s.
There are bits missing from the wagon (deliberately) one wheel is in place (the other three are identical). I like to place one correctly because I can then see that the flange isn't going to hit the wagon body. I have only put two axle boxes in - the other side is identical after all.
More as these print out.
Trevor
and with the support filament knocked off:
I will try printing something in two parts soon. Probably most appropriate for a figure. This horse has printed very cleanly in one piece. Any roughness is underneaths where it isn't visible.
And the carriage wagon with the Phaeton sitting on it:
When you have drawn the first thing it is easy to move on to the next because you are not starting from scratch. So the Phaeton is based on the wagonette - same wheels, axles, undercarriage. The body is new, and the drivers seat has been modified. The hood is completely new - and I am quite pleased with the way that has turned out. It consists of the same section, copied, pasted and rotated. Every other one has been made smaller all around. Taken together it seems reasonably convincing (to me).
The wagon frame is based on the slate wagon body, with a deck from the coal wagon. The axle box is based on the slate wagon one, modified. The coupling is from the Ashbury 4 wheel coach.
You might remember that I use a coupling based on that fitted to coach 15 and 16 when they were new for my coaches. As something that I think would be used with coaches that seems vaguely appropriate for this wagon (even if it is actually wrong). However I might use hook and link couplings on the Dandy wagon as I think the coach coupling would be inappropriate on something which would have been used mostly as a coal or goods wagon by the 1880s.
There are bits missing from the wagon (deliberately) one wheel is in place (the other three are identical). I like to place one correctly because I can then see that the flange isn't going to hit the wagon body. I have only put two axle boxes in - the other side is identical after all.
More as these print out.
Trevor
Re: 3 D Printing 16mm models
The horse looks really good now.
http://www.makehumancommunity.org/conte ... ssets.html
To use clothes from the library, called Assets in MH speak, you simply go to the libraray and download them, then they appear in the lists on the RH side of the main screen.Trevor Thompson wrote: ↑Sun Nov 29, 2020 1:06 pm pending working out how to use clothes others have prepared,
http://www.makehumancommunity.org/conte ... ssets.html
Philip
Re: 3 D Printing 16mm models
That is a flipping brilliant horse....
ROD
Life is so easy when I run my trains.
https://gardenrails.org/forum/viewtopic ... 41&t=11364
https://www.youtube.com/@fairywoodlightrailway
Life is so easy when I run my trains.
https://gardenrails.org/forum/viewtopic ... 41&t=11364
https://www.youtube.com/@fairywoodlightrailway
Re: 3 D Printing 16mm models
Hello! I follow the topic with interest. I have the same for a 3d printer. Htre is a photo of my models. I am using Tinkercad. I like the theme of logging and mining.
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H0-H0e-G-live steam...
http://www.youtube.com/user/rubyfox6907/videos?view=0
http://www.youtube.com/user/rubyfox6907/videos?view=0
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Re: 3 D Printing 16mm models
That is some fantastic work in Tinkercad, well done. I use Tinkercad too, which I know a couple of other people on here do too
The buck stops here .......
Ditton Meadow Light Railway (DMLR)
Member of Peterborough and District Association
http://peterborough.16mm.org.uk/
Ditton Meadow Light Railway (DMLR)
Member of Peterborough and District Association
http://peterborough.16mm.org.uk/
Re: 3 D Printing 16mm models
Ruby, That is some beautiful work. The first picture is fabulous.
Philip
Re: 3 D Printing 16mm models
Great looking models. TinkerCAD is my chosen 3D drawing package. So much more intuitive than others I've tried.
Rik
Rik
Re: 3 D Printing 16mm models
Very important 3d building ! A typical old railroad toilet.
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H0-H0e-G-live steam...
http://www.youtube.com/user/rubyfox6907/videos?view=0
http://www.youtube.com/user/rubyfox6907/videos?view=0
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