Garden Railway Forum

@ pandsrowe
Yes, I have applied it twice as well to get the right depth of black

...There are girls on the forum... No reason why not indeed :mrgreen: although in these PC times they may object to being referred to as "girls" :lol: ... don't the bottom of the wheels stay somewhat shiny, as the rails do when they are constantly running against each other... :?: They do...

TonyW wrote: ↑Sun Nov 10, 2019 1:47 pm ...there are hundreds of model loco owners out there who think bright shiny steel wheels (and cranks) look just right, apparently...

and, that is absolutely fine but... I am building this loco to please/satisfy just myself

Thank you @ tom_tom_go for sharing - interesting
Main advantage of the hot oil method for me is that it is using things I already have in my workshop, without having to buy additional stuff, for what is a one off, relatively rare operation.

Because you cannot paint flange and thread of the wheel and (as far as I am concerned at least) bright shiny mild steel just doesn't look right

Last time I've done something like this was about 35 years ago :D so there was some re-learning curve :mrgreen: but, it is all sorted out - I was overheating and burning things. Much more delicate and ontrolled application of heat (you don't need it glowing red :thumbup: ) resulted in finish I wante...

I tried my spare wheel: https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49037328983_94d3c1204b_h.jpg and it definitely looks better/real blackened (rarther than bright steel). I am not happy with the quality though... it is blotchy and rubs off easier than it should. Need to experiment more with temperature, de...

That looks sweet. Nice work... Thank you :thumbright: I only just test assembled it to see if it all fits OK, before loctiting the wheels on the axles, and before I do that, I also need to blacken the wheels (if I decide to do so). I will do the test on my spare/seventh wheel. ...I like the surface...

Bit of a milestone today :thumbright: https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49033226343_c5b0b8d033_h.jpg and on it's own "legs" for the first time :mrgreen: https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49033227703_aba34f885d_h.jpg Delighted with how free rolling and smooth it is on ball bearings. It ...

Your "masochistic" is somebody else's "attention to detail"
No, I wouldn't use stainless either, but it is Dazza's railway

...so far using my hand wheel feed on the mill/drill and the DRO on the quill Z I am yet to break one. But crikey I go at a 0.10 -0.15 mm per second with the feed....Never a drill chuck. I never use a drill chuck with any drills in the mill/drill. I couldn't possibly use direct feed on my Bridgepor...

Yes, stainless is a pig to machine
I like using these carbide PCB drills as well, although when they break they usually leave bits of drill in the hole
PITA to get out...
Nice work

It is happening at glacial pace :mrgreen: but there is some progress to report, so here it is: Wheel blanks held in soft jaws of the chuck. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49001964297_c2cba65148_h.jpg Six wheels, plus one for spare (and for f*** ups :thumbup: ), axle hole reamed and outside regi...

The blank for the smoke box door is parted off the lump of LG2 bronze that was left over from the cylinders and steam chests. Both have been faced, then Loctite back together using a 2.5mm pin to line both together... understand now :mrgreen: thank you :thumbup: ...Then the curved front face with a...

PM sent...

"...Trying out the Loctite holding process and so far so good..." Can you please explain? what are you holding with Loctite? Not quite sure I follow... btw - your filing skills whilst not surprising (after all you have plenty of practice in your daytime job) are very impressive :thumbright:

Another lovely loco from Graeme
Thank you for sharing!

I wish there was "like" button on this forum, to show appreciation for your posts ...
so here it is instead:

Hydrostatic Dazza wrote: ↑Mon Sep 09, 2019 10:44 pm How about skipping screws and broaching etc ...

yes, this is another option under consideration
I usually start with most complicated one and then reality takes over and a simpler one becomes more appealling

...May I ask why you decided to omit the springs? Number of reasons (in no particular order) - my personal preference is for equalisation rather than simple springing, but my original design (which looked OK on CAD screen :D ) turned out to be a bit too complicated... in real life - trying to limit...