Garden Railway Forum

hello i project to build a K1 with 2 chassis roudhouse (billy or Katie) is there somebody yet build one? Peter Lucas in South Australia built a stand-off scale K1 using a couple of Roundhouse Katie chassis and a custom boiler. You will find the writeup on the model in Issue 181 of Garden Rail, whic...

I hadn't thought of lining them. I've only ever used Trimline tape for lining and it's OK but not brilliant. I'm not really confident enough to use a bow pen. Hi Rik, Meant to reply earlier.... Using a bow pen, or tubular pen, is easy enough, getting the paint the right consistency is the trick. Li...

Looks like Tony suggests using two fuses; one to protect the battery and the other to protect the receiver/ESC. The second polyswitch between the ESC and motor has only appeared on the latest Deltang ESC wiring diagram from Tony. The docs. for his older ESCs only show the one at the battery. I only...

It is one of these... http://www.deltang.co.uk/rx65b-22-v611.htm The systems that Tony Walsham at RCS sells here in Aust. are Deltang based, but have considerably better instructions. http://www.rcs-rc.com/store/PDF/Instructions/Full%20instructions/Rx65b.pdf You'll notice he uses 3amp polyswitches ...

The Camden Miniature Steam newsletter arrived in my inbox overnight. It's not on their website yet, but for those looking for a copy of this book by Brian Wilson, it would appear Camden are having a new print run made, due out in late March, projected price GBP29.95. Recommended for anyone with an i...

I keep thinking of how to make the axle boxes look sprung though as it just does not look right to me without some kind of suspension? The Glyn Valley got by without springs on their goods stock, as quarry products don't complain about the ride....... Coil springs weren't unknown on narrow gauge st...

You could just make one spring I suppose, but then you'd need to make 4 individual castings per wagon, not just 1 set of 4. In the distant past (pre laser cutters and 3D printers) when I made my own resin and whitemetal castings, I always made one pattern and multiple moulds. That way all the casti...

They differ in having 4 holes instead of 3. Does he take special orders? I'd probably just bog up the existing oval holes with epoxy and drill the extra holes. Devcon do metal filled epoxies for that sort of job and there'd be plenty of metal left to hold it all together. No idea if Walsall does sp...

For my project to build Moel Tryfan I have run into a problem. How similar are they to the ones under Taliesin? Walsall have a casting for those. http://www.walsallmodelindustries.co.uk/product.php/special_wheel_for_festiniog_fairlie_loco_taliesin/?k=:::5890772 I've used their castings before and t...

What sort of adhesion do you get to what materials? Milliput and 'Green Stuff' are epoxies, so they will adhere to the same range of materials as Araldite. ie. metals, wood, glass, resin castings and some plastics, but adhesion will be low to things like polyethylene, polypropylene, Teflon and acet...

ge_rik:107235 wrote: I had a couple of bad experiences with Revell filler which seems to have about the same adhesive properties on plastic as biscuit crumbs.

Another one to avoid is Testors contour putty. It tends to separate in the tube into a liquid with suspended solid bits........

Graeme

There is a product called 'Green Stuff' which is used by the wargaming fraternity. Haven't seen that one around out here, but I use Milliput epoxy putty sometimes, which is much the same thing. I mainly use it for filling large gaps, such as when I drill a hole in the wrong place and have to move i...

I'm beginning to feel there's an introductory book on this whole subject I should have read. Not sure which white putty Rik uses, but my filler of choice for polystyrene is Squadron White Putty, available from the better purveyors of plastic kits in Oz. There is also a green version that some prefe...

However, I think the 1.5mm will be to hard to work, so either I get some genuine 1mm plasticard and make up yet another cylinder, or stop while I'm ahead. For something like a loco cylinder, consider laminating up rectangles of the 1.5mm sheet into a block and then shape that with a file. Finish of...

A bit of basic polymer chemistry may help........ Plasticard is a trademark of Slaters, not a polymer name. It's not commonly available here in Oz, but I have used their embossed sheets in the distant past. Polystyrene is the brittle clear stuff, used for things like packaging Ferrero Rocher chocola...

The simplest way to use printed paper templates to mark out polystyrene is to cut the shape out first, then glue it in place with a glue stick (the local newsagent stocks Pritt, but there are other brands). I use it to stick printed templates to steel for cutting frames with no problems. PVA only st...

A nibbler for final trimming might be the answer, if I had one. Good hobby shops that sell plastic kits should have them. The plastic kit modellers use them for cleanly cutting parts off the fret. From memory Tamiya sell them to the hobby trade, labelled as 'side cutters for plastic'. They also sel...

I'll give the prittstick a go and try a knife, but I think the 1.5mm stuff may be too heavy for any I have. At least with black sheet, it won't matter if handling wears some of the black paint off the high points..... The trick with cutting polystyrene sheet is to not try and cut all the way throug...

I like the idea of forming the roof out of shellac and paper over a former.  Does it need any framing, or does it form a hard enough shell that the sides and ends of the carriage and the internal partitions provide sufficient support? Depends on how thick you make it I guess. If you build the layer...

As anyone had a go at this sort of roof?  I am a bit at a loss where to begin other than with it being 'colonial' stock it would probably have had a double roof anyway, so an arc "inner" with a varnished laminated card "outer" braced by plywood formers? To be pedantic, they are ...