Garden Railway Forum

Hi Tom, There was a fairly comprehensive article in Australian Model Engineer about a year ago on building a small 7/8ths two fire- tube boiler. The article ran to 6 or 7 pages and included a computer generated analysis of the heat distribution. The results were fairly posative and makes for good re...

The recommended bandsaw cutting speed for most metals is less than 100 meters per minute. Your bandsaw appears to be rated at (typically for wood) 1450 meters per minute. I think cutting metal at wood speeds is a big ask for any blade. That said I have cut aluminium and brass in thin section on my w...

Really enjoyed that Tony. Interesting content- well constructed.

Not really comparable I know, but this 45mm gauge by Julius de Waal shows how much more room is available in slip eccentric.

http://modelengineeringwebsite.com/Huns ... ister.html

Tim

Do you leave the exhaust valve slightly cracked all the time? Tim

Good solution, nicely executed. Keen to see results of steam tests

I am not against the idea in principle.
One of the advantages of etching is the ability to half etch fold lines, makes getting things square much easier.

Tim

Pity it such a difficult project, a great start but so much more needed.
I love the project but in all honesty it’s beyond my ability. My wife says I have a whole pond of lame ducks.
Tim

Dave,

Let the metal bashing begin!
Look forward to your conclusions

Tim

Hi Dave,
The modern Far East ‘Trangia style’ rip-offs are all wider than 70mm which may prove a challenge. Without a remote feed most of them hold appropriately 100ml of fuel which they claim to give 20 - 30 mins burning time.
Tim

The other problem may be that these are now colectors items with attendant price tag.

Hi Dave, It’s a good idea. For a pot boiler you probably need 65mm from the bottom of the burner to the boiler? If you use a fire box and tubes you need the complication of a blower.? Could prove more applicable to 7/8ths than 16mm? Not trying to be negative, just trying to promote some discussion b...

Hi graff,
Belt & braces approach is always good, just make certain you use the right type of loctite!
Tim

I actually contacted the Down Under Rectus supplier on Friday and they have forwarded me the relevant catalogue pages and I am yet to study them. I think these Rectus couplngs are the way to go. Hi Dazza, I am going to explore pneumatic quick connects. Cheaper and smaller ( you only need one fittin...

well done Daz,

Mech dosen't seem to have any binds or hesitation.
Even I feel relieved,on to steam!

Tim

JMORG wrote: ↑Thu Jul 05, 2018 10:26 am The Gloucester works photo below is from the FR ibase archive.
wp_ss_20180630_0001.png

Love Gloucester's makeshift 1'11" track!

Tim

Hanging out for the next installment
Tim

Wow, that’s a lot of wheels!
Tim

The driver is a slightly modified Schliech 'Pioneer Settler' figure, now out of production. He came holding a stetson, which I carved off, leaving a remnant to suggest he has a rag in his hand. Regards, Graeme Just as well you didn't model the driver based on the prototype in the head picture. What...

philipy wrote: ↑Fri May 04, 2018 10:42 am Edited to add: There is a beastie called a Dingham Coupler. I admit that I've no experience of it but it might help either directly or simply to give you ideas.
http://www.dingham.co.uk/7mm_coupler.htm

But ou will need buffers to propel!
Tim