Garden Railway Forum

I just discovered this gem of a thread hiding in the depth of the forum
Thank you! most enjoyable hour spent catching up from the beginning
You sir, excel in all aspects of the hobby - an inspiration to the rest of us.

When you say 1.6mm dia rivet, do you mean stem dia or head dia?
Impressive, regardless of which

OK, I think my solidworks problem is sorted with the help of grabcad Instructions are here: https://grabcad.com/tutorials/how-to-convert-cad-files-in-workbench after uploading solidworks files into my workbench in grabcad, I can view the files in grabcad: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/g7nEePZNsd...

Some of you might be interested in CAD models I have found on https://grabcad.com https://d2t1xqejof9utc.cloudfront.net/screenshots/pics/0e923d3c5560ae5d740c1460789ccdc2/large.JPG https://d2t1xqejof9utc.cloudfront.net/screenshots/pics/bbd9c5d66e113e57322e4f418a6f59ac/large.JPG If you join grabcad (f...

Thank you FWLR
It's just lazy of me - should have googled it before posting

...As a chemist I'd classify it as a heavily contaminated surface for the purpose of making a joint with Loctite.... thank you GBT , that was my (reluctant) conclusion as well as they say in the trade "cluster f**k up" on my part :oops: ...I doubt the age of the Loctite 648 is an issue. The bottle ...

Had a bit of a setback :scratch: with wheels loctited on the axles. The retention strength is nowhere near what it should be... I don't know whether it is the age of my Loctite (I am using ancient 648 I had for years). It shouldn't be, since I didn't have problems with it before, but just in case or...

...You mentioned "girls' first Chris.... :lol: :lol: That's beacuse I am an incorrigible dinosaur :mrgreen: ps I have been locting the wheels on axles since yesterday - not taking chances and leaving it for 24 hrs to set before touching, because it would be right PITA if something were to go wrong ...

Perfect
@ BorisSpencer - it's good to have confirmation of my theory
That what I was aiming for

@ pandsrowe
Yes, I have applied it twice as well to get the right depth of black

...There are girls on the forum... No reason why not indeed :mrgreen: although in these PC times they may object to being referred to as "girls" :lol: ... don't the bottom of the wheels stay somewhat shiny, as the rails do when they are constantly running against each other... :?: They do and I hop...

TonyW wrote: ↑

Sun Nov 10, 2019 1:47 pm

...there are hundreds of model loco owners out there who think bright shiny steel wheels (and cranks) look just right, apparently...

and, that is absolutely fine but... I am building this loco to please/satisfy just myself

Thank you @ tom_tom_go for sharing - interesting
Main advantage of the hot oil method for me is that it is using things I already have in my workshop, without having to buy additional stuff, for what is a one off, relatively rare operation.

Because you cannot paint flange and thread of the wheel and (as far as I am concerned at least) bright shiny mild steel just doesn't look right

Last time I've done something like this was about 35 years ago :D so there was some re-learning curve :mrgreen: but, it is all sorted out - I was overheating and burning things. Much more delicate and ontrolled application of heat (you don't need it glowing red :thumbup: ) resulted in finish I wante...