Just reading through 'Railways in your Garden', it suggests many types of track bases for track to be layed onto.
The easiest one seems to be to dig a trench four inches deep; line it with weed killer and polythene sheet, punch holes in the sheet for drainage and then fill it with ballast up to the required height.
What are the advantages and disadvantages of this method? Surely the drainage holes will let weeds through?
I don't particularly want to go to the hassle of laying a brick base (I can't mix concrete or lay them for a start!) but I want a good base for my track to be layed on...
Track bases
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Matt
Well on disadvantage is that for that method to work poperly, you'd have to have a very flat garden, otherwise you'd have lots of gradients or would have to do quite a bit of civil engineering.
Also, I'm I right in thinking that with flexi track any track you curve will just flick back into a straight unless it's properly secured?
Also, I'm I right in thinking that with flexi track any track you curve will just flick back into a straight unless it's properly secured?
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SillyBilly
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MTA
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MuzTrem
Well now...I know all the textbooks say to try to avoid gradients, but I'd say it's actually good to have some. This is because my line was built by a professional garden railway builder with a brand new laser-level he was itching to try out...and the resulting billiard-table-flat railway is actually rather boring to drive!Matt wrote:Well on disadvantage is that for that method to work poperly, you'd have to have a very flat garden, otherwise you'd have lots of gradients or would have to do quite a bit of civil engineering.
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Matt
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mhlr
- Retired Director
- Posts: 4336
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It aint ideal to leave loose, needs screwing down or summut... How about screwing a thin 'post' to the bottom of a sleeper every here and there so u can 'peg' it down into the ground...Matt wrote:Could someone answer my question from an earier post, as I'd like to know if I need a secure base for curves made from flexi track.
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Matt
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laalratty
depends how well it is laid down and if there is some gunge in the chairs (ie its been run on for a couple of years)
brand new track springs back to fairly straight, but the track that I lifted during my reconstruction kept its radius after I had lifted it pretty much
MTA I would advise getting thermolite blocks and laying the track on them, either just bedding them into the soil or putting them over a concrete or mortar base. Thermolite blocks don't have to be drilled into, screws will screw straight into them, this helps with getting the alignment on joints
brand new track springs back to fairly straight, but the track that I lifted during my reconstruction kept its radius after I had lifted it pretty much
MTA I would advise getting thermolite blocks and laying the track on them, either just bedding them into the soil or putting them over a concrete or mortar base. Thermolite blocks don't have to be drilled into, screws will screw straight into them, this helps with getting the alignment on joints
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grumpfuttock
Sorry, this is very long, but I hope it will be of some help.
Some of the methods I have used and the results !
Method 1. Loose ballast on weed inhibiting membrane.
For the Welton station area on my garden railway, I started by compacting the earth where the track was to be laid, and levelling it. I used 30-40cm long posts, approx 2cm x 3 cm to hold the flexi track in place. The posts were placed under the first sleeper of the section of track, then the next post under a sleeper in the middle of the track section, then a post under the first sleeper of the next section of track...and so on. this held the track in place very well. The posts were hammered down to approx 2 cm above the earth.
I then laid sections of weed stopping membrane (cut a few centimetres wider than the track) between the posts, cutting the membrane to fit around the posts and overlapping the ends of each section. This is quite important, otherwise earthworms bump into the posts, and head for the surface, taking earth with them and creating mini molehills in the ballst. After getting the membrane in place I screwed the track onto the posts and then added the loose ballast, pressing it down beneath and around the sleepers with my fingers. Best to use loose angular chippings, as they lock together better. The whole station area was laid out in spring 2005 and for the first 2 years was totally weed free, however, bits of leaves and particles tend to get trapped in the ballast over time and rot down giving a good base for any stray seeds to start their weed invasion. This has meant going over the track every few weeks and plucking any "baby" weeds out of the ballast.
Construction was simple and fairly quick. After the first year I found that frost had pushed up some of the posts, so I removed them and used plastic tie strips (used to tie electric cables etc. not sure what they are called in the UK) around the sleepers at the end of each section to hold the track sections together. After a few months in the weather, flexi track looses it's urge to straighten itself out and floats wonderfully in the ballast without the aid of posts. Once a year, I go around and top up with ballast in the few places where it has settled.
Method 2. Brick base with cement topping. (I'd rather strawberry flan with cream topping )
Again I compacted the earth under the track, and laid old bricks under the track with approx 2 to 3 cm between the top of the brick and track. A mix of 1 cement, 3 sand and 2- 3 parts ballast was dry mixed and applied under the track and around the bricks leaving a little space between the bottom of the track so the track does not get cemented. Loose ballast was gently pressed into the mix and levelled to sleeper level. This was then watered quickly with a watering can, covered and left to harden for 3-4 days. The bricks and cement keep the worms away and stop weeds from growing up through the track. I expected problems with the bricks moving after frosts, but no problems have arisen and the track bed has remained stable for the past two years. However, particles and earth have got into the ballast and again weeds need to be plucked out before their roots spread to far. This method required more effort, especially when mixing bucketfuls of dry cement/ballast mix.
Pics of this method can be seen at the bottom of this page...
http://www.tumblydowncottage.dk/html/bo ... age_2.html
Method 3. Dry cement mix.
The best maintenance free method I have used, is, again securing the flexitrack to posts, compacting the earth under the track, leaving approx 2 cms under the track and then pouring a dry cement mix over the track, pressing it well up to the level of the top of the sleepers. Some loose ballast is sprinkled over the dry cement mix and then gently pressed into the mix, then watered and left to set. This cements the track into place and is easy to keep free from leaves etc. A couple of minutes with a brush and the whole track is swept clear of debris. I DO NOT RECOMMEND THIS METHOD, because at some point I had to move to another house, and in some places the cement mix had set so well, I wrecked a good deal of track and destroyed 6 turnouts trying to get the track up !!!!!! Also it gives the locomotives and rolling stock a hard ride. Closed goods wagons become very noisy on this sort of solid trackbase.
Method 4. Powdered granite or stone.
I am now trying another method. It seems very promising. As I have said earlier, my main problem with loose ballast is that after some time, earth and rotting foliage gets into the ballast giving good conditions for weeds to flourish (here they actually seem to like growing the ballast !) Also we have a fair number of trees, and the leaves work their way into the ballast, turnouts and under the track. I am now removing some of the ballast from under the track and replacing it with powdered granite. This is great ! Once compacted under the track and between the sleepers, it becomes quite hard. There are no longer any spaces for debris to go, leaves get blown off the track instead of into it, and it is supposed to deter the weeds as well. It looks quite nice too, as it still gives something of a ballast like appearance. So this hopefully will be as near to very low maintenance as the method of cementing the track in place. The only thing about it that gives me cause for concern is that, in strong winds or rain, particles of stone may get into the moving parts of my loco's, thus doing damage. Having said that, a friend of mine has used this method for 3 to 4 years, with absolutely no problems.
Some of the methods I have used and the results !
Method 1. Loose ballast on weed inhibiting membrane.
For the Welton station area on my garden railway, I started by compacting the earth where the track was to be laid, and levelling it. I used 30-40cm long posts, approx 2cm x 3 cm to hold the flexi track in place. The posts were placed under the first sleeper of the section of track, then the next post under a sleeper in the middle of the track section, then a post under the first sleeper of the next section of track...and so on. this held the track in place very well. The posts were hammered down to approx 2 cm above the earth.
I then laid sections of weed stopping membrane (cut a few centimetres wider than the track) between the posts, cutting the membrane to fit around the posts and overlapping the ends of each section. This is quite important, otherwise earthworms bump into the posts, and head for the surface, taking earth with them and creating mini molehills in the ballst. After getting the membrane in place I screwed the track onto the posts and then added the loose ballast, pressing it down beneath and around the sleepers with my fingers. Best to use loose angular chippings, as they lock together better. The whole station area was laid out in spring 2005 and for the first 2 years was totally weed free, however, bits of leaves and particles tend to get trapped in the ballast over time and rot down giving a good base for any stray seeds to start their weed invasion. This has meant going over the track every few weeks and plucking any "baby" weeds out of the ballast.
Construction was simple and fairly quick. After the first year I found that frost had pushed up some of the posts, so I removed them and used plastic tie strips (used to tie electric cables etc. not sure what they are called in the UK) around the sleepers at the end of each section to hold the track sections together. After a few months in the weather, flexi track looses it's urge to straighten itself out and floats wonderfully in the ballast without the aid of posts. Once a year, I go around and top up with ballast in the few places where it has settled.
Method 2. Brick base with cement topping. (I'd rather strawberry flan with cream topping
)Again I compacted the earth under the track, and laid old bricks under the track with approx 2 to 3 cm between the top of the brick and track. A mix of 1 cement, 3 sand and 2- 3 parts ballast was dry mixed and applied under the track and around the bricks leaving a little space between the bottom of the track so the track does not get cemented. Loose ballast was gently pressed into the mix and levelled to sleeper level. This was then watered quickly with a watering can, covered and left to harden for 3-4 days. The bricks and cement keep the worms away and stop weeds from growing up through the track. I expected problems with the bricks moving after frosts, but no problems have arisen and the track bed has remained stable for the past two years. However, particles and earth have got into the ballast and again weeds need to be plucked out before their roots spread to far. This method required more effort, especially when mixing bucketfuls of dry cement/ballast mix.
Pics of this method can be seen at the bottom of this page...
http://www.tumblydowncottage.dk/html/bo ... age_2.html
Method 3. Dry cement mix.
The best maintenance free method I have used, is, again securing the flexitrack to posts, compacting the earth under the track, leaving approx 2 cms under the track and then pouring a dry cement mix over the track, pressing it well up to the level of the top of the sleepers. Some loose ballast is sprinkled over the dry cement mix and then gently pressed into the mix, then watered and left to set. This cements the track into place and is easy to keep free from leaves etc. A couple of minutes with a brush and the whole track is swept clear of debris. I DO NOT RECOMMEND THIS METHOD, because at some point I had to move to another house, and in some places the cement mix had set so well, I wrecked a good deal of track and destroyed 6 turnouts trying to get the track up !!!!!! Also it gives the locomotives and rolling stock a hard ride. Closed goods wagons become very noisy on this sort of solid trackbase.
Method 4. Powdered granite or stone.
I am now trying another method. It seems very promising. As I have said earlier, my main problem with loose ballast is that after some time, earth and rotting foliage gets into the ballast giving good conditions for weeds to flourish (here they actually seem to like growing the ballast !) Also we have a fair number of trees, and the leaves work their way into the ballast, turnouts and under the track. I am now removing some of the ballast from under the track and replacing it with powdered granite. This is great ! Once compacted under the track and between the sleepers, it becomes quite hard. There are no longer any spaces for debris to go, leaves get blown off the track instead of into it, and it is supposed to deter the weeds as well. It looks quite nice too, as it still gives something of a ballast like appearance. So this hopefully will be as near to very low maintenance as the method of cementing the track in place. The only thing about it that gives me cause for concern is that, in strong winds or rain, particles of stone may get into the moving parts of my loco's, thus doing damage. Having said that, a friend of mine has used this method for 3 to 4 years, with absolutely no problems.
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ACLR
Thanks John for that great information and will help me when I rebuild the ACLR at some stage.
I have used the powdered granit here we call it crusher dust as driveways and hard standing also as a base for laying pavers. it definatel sets realy hard and inhibits weed growth. I was thinking that adding some cement to the granit and after compacting it just spray with water and let it set that should keep it weed free.
keep up the great work
I have used the powdered granit here we call it crusher dust as driveways and hard standing also as a base for laying pavers. it definatel sets realy hard and inhibits weed growth. I was thinking that adding some cement to the granit and after compacting it just spray with water and let it set that should keep it weed free.
keep up the great work
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grumpfuttock
I'd rather not keep up the great (??????? doubtful) work. I'd rather lounge around in the sun. Got some track to re-route, a couple of extra sidings to add, the final stage of the railway to start on, a couple of buildings to build, a couple of signal kits to to, the coal fired loco to finish and loco maintenance.... and this is supposed to be a relaxing hobby ?????????????? Stress, stress, stress :lol: :lol:
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grumpfuttock
like good cholestorol !!!! 
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