Well the Westwood & Loscoe Light Railway now has one of these loco's on shed, so, what do you get?
First off, the model arrives in a substantial sized box stuffed full of styrene wotsits.
Delving in here (I
always love doing that!!) there's another box containing the loco along with a single sheet of "instructions", and for me since I took the ordering option of including the battery charger (an excellent discount to be had there), a second box with said charger.
Overall excellent packaging for delivery.
Opening the loco box, you would be excused for thinking that you'd purchased a metal bodied model - there's a sheen to the completed bodywork (and I suspect, if unlike me you have the "mass blocks - 354g of encapsulated lead" fitted in place) a heft to the loco that belies its resin construction.
I'd asked Andy to leave my "mass blocks" unfitted to widen my options when fitting the Acme sound unit. A recommended option if you're thinking of doing the same, since the main "block" would take up the space you'll need under the loco bonnet.
Inspecting the new loco reveals a very nice, crisply detailed model with (on my option) manual control.
There's a discreet "on/off" push switch disguised as a round panel on the side of the bonnet, rotary speed control masquerading as the air filter and an "Fwd/Off/Rev" switch on the rear buffer beam to one side of the centre coupling while the charging socket is located on the opposite side.
My first thought was "why two "On/Off" switches"? It quickly occured to me that the body mounted switch would act as a very convenient "Emergency Stop" switch in the event of any running problems!
The loco arrived set to 32mm gauge, but there's a supplied alan key for re-gauging so this was the first job - and where I hit the first prob!
The wheels are typical Andel resin castings, glued to the adjusting collars. For some reason the two starboard wheels were unstuck and thus freewheeling!
A quick session with the araldite and the wheels were secured - BUT - I would suggest that this could be a weak point. Unfortunate really since the motor, gearing and brass bushes all combine to produce a heavy duty model. The drive is supplied via two sets of delrin style chains to axle mounted sprockets so obviously the axles are driven, if the wheels come loose on the axles, the drive will be lost.
Next thing was to see about removing the body to fit the sound unit and "mass blocks" prior to running trials.
Here's the second problem. This is not a kit, so the instructions are for operation, care and running maintenance of the loco. There's
no strip down information.
Pity really since I suspect that most purchasers of the loco will want to get the body off, if only to pick out the moulded in-cab detailing and / or fit a suitable driver.
A request to Andy via his website for info has, at the time of writing, yielded no response so "trial and error" it was.
There's a healthy array of crosshead screws under the chassis and here's what they do.
The outer screws release forward and aft cover plates, revealing more screws which, along with the four inside the "wheel well" release the body.
Connections between the body and chassis electrical components are handled via three connectors on a multi block. The wires are too short to allow the body to be laid flat alongside the chassis and must be unplugged to allow you to work comfortably. This shouldn't be a problem but............
Problem three was a poorly made off three way plug where the wire simply came away from the connector. Releasing the captive female socket showed that it had been crimped onto the multi-strand wire without first tinning it with solder.
I wasn't going to strip all eight connections, so once I'd soldered the wayward wire I left well alone. (There was also a suspect looking joint on one of the wires to the captive plug. Everything worked, but while the iron was hot I remade it to avoid any future failure.)
I'll follow up this "inspection" with an "operational" review in the next couple of days, subject to time and weather
I reckon that fitting the sound unit falls outside of a "review", so I'll save you from that for now. (yes it's in and working! I'll post details elsewhere for anyone thinking of doing the same)