Page 1 of 2

Deltang Tx20 kitbuild

Posted: Sun Sep 20, 2015 1:07 pm
by ge_rik
I've just posted an account of my build of a Deltang Tx20 transmitter on my blog.
http://riksrailway.blogspot.com/2015/09 ... -tx20.html

Hopefully, it shows that the construction of the transmitter is actually quite straightforward - as I've said in my blog post, if I can do it, anyone can!

The account also includes pictures and some detail of the construction of a Tx22 from a fellow modeller (Dave Bowden). Thanks Dave for letting me use your photos and your description. Dave's wiring is a heck of a lot neater than mine! ???

Rik

Posted: Sun Sep 20, 2015 3:25 pm
by Busted Bricks
Nice article.

One thing I would add that if you are into electric locos and building electronic kits then it is a good idea to invest in a proper adjustable, thermostat controlled soldering iron. You can dial in just the right amount of heat for the work at hand and tips last a very long time. Usually there is also a good selection of tips available. I recommend buying at least a 60W iron. You can dial down the heat for delicate soldering but crank it up for thick wires etc.

Here are a couple of links:

UK supplier of Aouye soldering stations. They are very affordable and work well.
http://www.pcb-soldering.co.uk/solderin ... ezers.html

I use Xytronic. They are available in the UK but I bought mine from Reichelt as they are cheaper than UK dealers.
http://www.reichelt.de/XYTRONIC-Loetsta ... OUPID=4543

If money is no object, then buy Weller. They cost a lot but is top quality. I have a non-adjustable thermostat iron from Weller that is over 30 years old and still going strong. Never changed the tip on it.

Michael

Posted: Sun Sep 20, 2015 9:10 pm
by ge_rik
Thanks for the info, Michael. I do have an adjustable iron which I use for whitemetal soldering but at present it only has a spade bit. Must invest in another finer bit. The bit seems to be ceramic rather than copper.

(I was going to say thanks for the 'hot tip' but thought better of it.....)

Rik

Posted: Wed Sep 23, 2015 10:13 pm
by Busted Bricks
I look forward to getting stuck in with a TX22 kit. However a move to Germany has changed my plans for a home visit so I might not be home until December. I don't have any tools with me here.

I plan to make the box from mahogany with nice finger joints (on my laser cutter) and possibly some fancy etched brass labels, brass corners and knurled brass knobs.

Posted: Thu Sep 24, 2015 12:10 am
by Peter Butler
Busted Bricks:113569 wrote:
I plan to make the box from mahogany with nice finger joints (on my laser cutter) and possibly some fancy etched brass labels, brass corners and knurled brass knobs.
 Now you're talking my language!!!  I would love to see such a thing of beauty as well as functionality.
That must fall into the 'Steampunk' category?

Posted: Thu Sep 24, 2015 6:43 am
by ge_rik
Busted Bricks:113569 wrote: I plan to make the box from mahogany with nice finger joints (on my laser cutter) and possibly some fancy etched brass labels, brass corners and knurled brass knobs.
Great idea. The cases supplied are, shall we say, a bit utilitarian.

Rik

Posted: Thu Sep 24, 2015 3:04 pm
by -steves-
I am looking at doing the TX22 or the TX23 from a kit, maybe both?

Does anyone know how these work for battery operated Electric locos that need an esc or how they work with Live Steam that need 2 channels for operation?

The main thing I need to know is do I need one TX to do the lot or do I need a TX for Live steam and a TX for Electric because of the different operation modes, I have been trying to understand it on their site, but admit I am at a bit of a loss. Would I be best off using their RX's with built in ESC's??

Me lost  :oops:

Posted: Thu Sep 24, 2015 9:03 pm
by ge_rik
-steves-:113573 wrote:I am looking at doing the TX22 or the TX23 from a kit, maybe both?

Does anyone know how these work for battery operated Electric locos that need an esc or how they work with Live Steam that need 2 channels for operation?

The main thing I need to know is do I need one TX to do the lot or do I need a TX for Live steam and a TX for Electric because of the different operation modes, I have been trying to understand it on their site, but admit I am at a bit of a loss. Would I be best off using their RX's with built in ESC's??

Me lost  :oops:
Theoretically, you would only need one Tx to control both battery electric and live steam. I say 'theoretically' only because I have no experience of live steam. You would need to use his combined rx/esc receivers for battery electric locos and the rx102 for your live steam loco.

The type of tx would really depend on what controls you need for your steam loco. When you say two channels, is that for regulator and whistle? Do you also want to operate the reverser? Might you need more channels in the future?

Rik

Posted: Thu Sep 24, 2015 9:31 pm
by Busted Bricks
You can use an external ESC with a RX102 receiver. Probably also with a RX65 as you can program the outputs. An ESC just needs to be connected to a servo output.

Posted: Fri Sep 25, 2015 8:24 am
by -steves-
ge_rik:113575 wrote:Theoretically, you would only need one Tx to control both battery electric and live steam. I say 'theoretically' only because I have no experience of live steam. You would need to use his combined rx/esc receivers for battery electric locos and the rx102 for your live steam loco.

The type of tx would really depend on what controls you need for your steam loco. When you say two channels, is that for regulator and whistle? Do you also want to operate the reverser? Might you need more channels in the future?

Rik
Thanks Rik

The steam loco's are a regulator, so one channel from 0 to 100 and one for the reverser, so middle 0 to +50 and -50, if that makes sense. What worries me is one needs a middle stick, so to speak, but I would like the electrics on a switch for forwards and reverse, so instead of doing middle to each end, I would like 0-100 forwards, flick switch, then 0-100 reverse, again, hope that makes sense. Not sure if that is doable on the steam ones or not?

Posted: Sat Sep 26, 2015 7:19 am
by ge_rik
-steves-:113579 wrote: The steam loco's are a regulator, so one channel from 0 to 100 and one for the reverser, so middle 0 to +50 and -50, if that makes sense. What worries me is one needs a middle stick, so to speak, but I would like the electrics on a switch for forwards and reverse, so instead of doing middle to each end, I would like 0-100 forwards, flick switch, then 0-100 reverse, again, hope that makes sense. Not sure if that is doable on the steam ones or not?
The beauty of Deltang is that virtually everything is programmable. You can set up receivers to respond in whatever way you want to the tx. David sells receivers which are already set-up to respond to the direction switch and use the full turn (0-100) of the speed knob.

You could also have the receivers on your electric locos respond the the 50/50 throttle and your live steamers to respond to the the 0-100 throttle and direction switch if you wish. However, for consistency, you may prefer to have them all set up the same (ie all 0-100 responding to the direction switch).

I know some are a bit daunted by re-programming receivers. Tony Walsham (http://www.rcs-rc.com/) uses Deltang for his more recent gear and has produced transmitters which are designed for either steam or battery. He doesn't use Tx22 though, so with his gear you buy one transmitter for each type of loco rather than having them all controlled from one tx. However, you can have many rxs bound to one standard tx - as long don't try running them at the same time.

Rik

Posted: Sun Sep 27, 2015 3:54 pm
by -steves-
Well I emailed Deltang and they have said to go for a TX24 which will suit my needs. Hopefully over the next few weeks I will purchase one and post up how it want.

These RX's seem to be very handy, they have suggested a 102-1 and a 65-22, so all good :)

Really helpful thread, thank you :)

Posted: Sun Sep 27, 2015 6:52 pm
by ge_rik
-steves-:113595 wrote:Well I emailed Deltang and they have said to go for a TX24 which will suit my needs. Hopefully over the next few weeks I will purchase one and post up how it want.

These RX's seem to be very handy, they have suggested a 102-1 and a 65-22, so all good :)

Really helpful thread, thank you :)
Great to hear you're sorted out.
'They' will probably be David. Deltang is very much a one-man-band

Rik

Posted: Tue Oct 13, 2015 10:55 pm
by -steves-
Well so much for customer service, after having a faulty rx and sending it back, after an entire week and not even a reply to my 2 emails. Moving house or nor, it dont take a month to move and it never hurts to keep people up to date and in the loop. I await to see if this wait has all been worth it or not.  :evil:

I also put the build up here.


http://www.16mmforum.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=3

Posted: Wed Oct 14, 2015 12:02 am
by Maple
Hi Steves,

I seem to be in a similar situation, but think it could be my fault n wiring. I hope it is just a short term thing

Posted: Wed Oct 14, 2015 7:03 am
by -steves-
Maple:113798 wrote:Hi Steves,

I seem to be in a similar situation, but think it could be my fault n wiring. I hope it is just a short term thing
Oh dear, sorry to hear that. The TX24 kit I was sent works great and I am very pleased with it, though the instructions for that kit are not the best from all the ones I looked at, eventually i worked out that all the left terminals were negative, all the right terminals were positive and all the centre terminals went to a channel on the TX board, The most difficult part was making a - and + "rail" to work everything to and keeping it away from each other. All other TX units had quite details and specific instructions, but the TX24 were all a bit smaller, not as many and less details IMHO.

The only bit I had that didn't work was the bind switch, but as that is just a simple on/off scenario I managed to test it ok just by shorting the pins across

I do hope we get to hear something back from Mr Deltang very soon as this is seriously frustrating.

My soldering of the TX24 can be seen here. http://www.16mmforum.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=3

Posted: Wed Oct 14, 2015 9:20 am
by Maple
I think i soldered up the controls wrong, my transmitter and receiver would not bind properly. There receiver always seems to forget the transmitter. I,m using a tx22 and rx65. I do hope he can get them sorted soon, was really looking forward to some radio control. Your wiring does look a little neater than mine :)

Posted: Wed Oct 14, 2015 3:26 pm
by -steves-
Maple:113805 wrote:I think i soldered up the controls wrong, my transmitter and receiver would not bind properly. There receiver always seems to forget the transmitter. I,m using a tx22 and rx65. I do hope he can get them sorted soon, was really looking forward to some radio control. Your wiring does look a little neater than mine :)
My soldering is not great, it has moments of good and moments of, well quite poor to be fair.

Good news, David replied today and has fixed my RX65 and is also going to send me out a second TX and another RX as well as a few extra switches and wire and things for some extra bits to go in.

After working out how it all hangs together I will post up how you add additional switches to channel 7 to operate a sound card with engine and horn as this is one of my projects to do.

As he has got round to mine, I am sure yours is either already done, or will be next on the list ;)

Posted: Wed Oct 14, 2015 4:09 pm
by Maple
hopefully i will also hear something soon :) I am hoping he does not have to charge me (although can understand if he does). Ive been looking at some jigstones moulds :)

I will post when i hear from him

Posted: Fri Nov 06, 2015 10:43 am
by Maple
All sorted, David is great. My wiring not so much

I love the the system. When the weather is nice and i clear the tracks. Ill try and do a video.

Ta

Ben